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Twins Technical Talk Technical Talk for Hinckley Triumph Twins: Bonneville, T100, Speedmaster, America, Thruxton, and Scrambler.

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Old 12-10-2012, 10:51 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Valve Lapping or Grinding

I recently asked for help finding shims for my 2007 Bonneville, a quest that went very well and thanks once again for that. Now I have a new request for assistance.
It turns out I had substantial carbon in the combustion chamber and my local shop completely removed the head as after reassembly of the valve train one cylinder lost compression. There is no damage but it seems carbon broke loose and wedged on the valve preventing a good seal in the combustion chamber. The mechanic went one step further and established at least one valve is loose in its guide so after 70,000 miles I have decided its a good time to replace the valves and guides, which will require getting them professionally seated, known to some as lapping (US) or grinding (UK).

Can anyone recommend a machine shop familiar with New Triumphs that will reliably refresh my head, new valves ad guides etc..?

Thank you in advance
Michael
Key West
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Old 12-11-2012, 12:56 AM   #2 (permalink)
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You ought to just try to find a reputable shop close to you. New guides and valve lapping is about as basic a job as can be done for a machine shop. Valves can even be lapped in by hand. You'd be surprised how easy something like that is. Of course, new guides is more work.

I usually try to find places close for something like that because 1) save $ on shipping, and 2) if something does go wrong, you can dispute it with them in person.

I try to talk to old biker guys. They seem to have a lifeline to some of the hidden gems in any area. Many times I learn something along the way, too.
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Old 12-11-2012, 09:44 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I was hopingtheree might be a triumph shop that does this kind of stuff because I am hesitant to drop it off in just any cowboy's shop. There are lots of those in South Florida.
Shipping costs are a fact of life in these islands.
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Old 12-11-2012, 10:01 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Well, I know of a shop in Jacksonville that specializes in Brit bikes for as long as I can remember. (Maybe back to the 60's or 70's) The only problem is that I don't like dealing with them because the owner is an... Let's leave it at that. I don't know if they actually do their own machining, but they could, at least, get it handled for you. I stopped dealing with them in the early 90's, but I know others that have had a decent experience with them. Let me know if you're interested and I'll pm you the info
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Old 12-11-2012, 10:32 AM   #5 (permalink)
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there is alittle more to it on these bikes you have to have someone that knows how to set up stem height or you wont be able to set the valves with the shims you can get.You need a machine shop that knows about shim over bucket heads.When you grind or cut the seats the valve will go father into the head so the stem of the valve needs to be shorter.If you want it done right give carlos at tpusa a call the guy that does there heads is 2nd to none on these bikes.forget about hand lapping the valves with the miles you have on your bike.
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Old 12-11-2012, 02:37 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by conchscooter View Post
known to some as lapping (US) or grinding (UK).
From a UK perspective I recognise both descriptions but as separate operations.
Grinding would be done with a formed grinding wheel to form the seat after seat or possibly guide replacement (to get the seat concentric with the valve axis) or if different seat geometry was required (3 angle valve seat for instance), lapping is performed using lapping paste on the formed seat to create sealing faces on the valve & seat.
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Old 12-12-2012, 05:56 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Thanks. I sent a message to tpusa. I shall see what I get.

I like to ride and I like to think that if I get a pro to do it it will last longer. I think I caused the problem by running the bike on premium which caused carbon build up and with the valve adjustment carbon broke loose and reduced compression. Upon removing the head we found the valves were due for a refresh. The moral for me is to ride by the book. I might have got another 20,000 miles out of the valves.
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Old 12-12-2012, 06:07 PM   #8 (permalink)
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It wasnt the gas that caused that more then likely valve seals and worn guides caused the carbon.With that many miles on the bike I would look into maybe doing a 904 big bore .You may seal the head up only to have the rings go out.There has to be some wear there in the rings ,pistons and bore.
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Old 12-12-2012, 06:24 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Thanks. I sent a message to tpusa. I shall see what I get.

I like to ride and I like to think that if I get a pro to do it it will last longer. I think I caused the problem by running the bike on premium which caused carbon build up and with the valve adjustment carbon broke loose and reduced compression. Upon removing the head we found the valves were due for a refresh. The moral for me is to ride by the book. I might have got another 20,000 miles out of the valves.
Premium Fuel does not cause anymore carbon then regular. Poor quality fuel, excessive idling and lugging the engine does. A double shot glass of Chevron Techron in the fuel with each oil change keeps everything clean.
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Old 12-13-2012, 06:32 AM   #10 (permalink)
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i am wondering about the rings but they seem fine. I had thought about a revote but then I wonder how much more stuff do I disturb? I am not into no note kits. I try to get high miles by keeping things standard.
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