Valve Lapping or Grinding - Page 3 - Triumph Forum: Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums
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post #21 of 25 (permalink) Old 12-15-2012, 04:02 PM Thread Starter
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The original thought was that the mechanic had screwed up and he was devastated but upon removing the head there was no evidence of damage. Lots of carbon and loose valves in their seats.

The argument about replacing the rings is interesting becaus eyes, on the one hand doing the valve job changes the relationship between the valves and the rings, but on the other hand replacing the rings...changes the relationship between the piston and the cylinder. Hmm....
There a 2007 Black with 143 miles on the clock for $5400 just waiting to get an owner that will ride the snot out of it! Hmm...luckily I just got a new car so a new bike at least is out of the running.
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post #22 of 25 (permalink) Old 12-15-2012, 07:12 PM
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If your bike is paid for you can do the head up right and a 904 and have a much better running bike for less money that you can ride for years

Why do I feel young on my bike
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post #23 of 25 (permalink) Old 12-17-2012, 04:51 AM Thread Starter
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Long since paid for. Where I live I am 12 hours riding time from the nearest mountain, 100 miles from the nearest freeway and in all respects happy with the performance of the original bike, which is where I wish to return after the interruption of these irritating holidays shuts everything down.
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post #24 of 25 (permalink) Old 12-30-2012, 04:17 AM
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Combustion residue build up on top of the piston is burnt oil. Just check that the bore is OK then measure your ring gap, it has probably opened up allowing oil to be carried up past the rings. Take out all of your valves and get a shop to re-face them all, light lap with fine paste and blue the face back in to ensure that there is a seal all of the way around, only light amount of blue and slight turn to ensure that you are not wiping the blue all around the seat. Check the ring gap in the liner, if it is less than minimum you will have to see a mechanic and get him to gap them for you.
Now the tricky bit when you put the old girl back together, you have to run it in and if it is not done properly you will start burning oil again. I used a 30w Mineral Oil and when I started the bike, checked for leaks quickly, took it out on the road and ran it out to around 7,000rpm in second (depends how game you are with the police) held it there for a few seconds and then slowed down. Did this a couple of more times for the first 20-30Klm to bed in the new rings. Changed the oil back at around 200klm to the recommended product and mine has not used oil since the second rebuild, first one i @#$%^d it up and did not run it in properly. But like Mikeinva said a 904 kit is heaps of fun! and for the cost of doing a rebuild like above, if you cant do it yourself, then it may be cheaper to go the BBK.
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post #25 of 25 (permalink) Old 01-03-2013, 05:21 PM
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Would you PM with the name of the shop you use. I need the valve adjustment done -- the guy I had been using moved out of the Keys. Many thanks.

2006 T-100, 56k and oil tight; BC Sleepers, no snorkel,Hyde steering damper, Parabellum Scout, Western Bars, Progressive 412s, Michelins, AirHawk, Go Cruise, 19-tooth; Givi bags, K&N, Nology, Kuryakan Iso grips
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