Triumphrat

bluesforchallah · 12-11-2012, 05:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by roy rodriguez

why did you disconect the throttle cables all you need to do was remove carb set from the left and flip them over to get at the bowels...

If I remember correctly from a previous thread, his carbs were in a pretty sad state when he got the bike.

RJ Triumph · 12-11-2012, 05:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by roy rodriguez

why did you disconect the throttle cables all you need to do was remove carb set from the left and flip them over to get at the bowels [ now facing up ] .leaving the cables as they were , plastic drain pan catches any gas draining from the vents or in the bowels ..clean -flip up right - pull and clean slides - reinstall .....slide in -push foward into the rubbers -move air box foward and clamp everything- conect the electrics -gas hose-vent hose clearance -done

By disconnect I meant I removed the bolts below and above holding the throttle cables to the carbs. I could not get the carbs out without loosening those to pull carbs out. I did not completely detach the carbs, I just pulled them to the side as you mentioned..

RJ Triumph · 12-11-2012, 05:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bluesforchallah

If I remember correctly from a previous thread, his carbs were in a pretty sad state when he got the bike.

Well, the carbs turned out to be not so bad. What was bad was the pistons in my brake calipers and the general pitting on the outside on the carbs chrome. The inside of the float bowls were actually pretty clean. My gas tank was rusted on the inside though, hence the caswells and the thorough cleaning of all of the fuel filters and fuel lines...

RICHW · 12-11-2012, 05:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ripper

For me, your comment that I have marked in red seals it. Its more than likely that the CDI is at fault, and reading on, both problems could be linked with the CDI being the culprit. Personally, my next action would be to replace the CDI (with a borrowed one if possible) and test ride.

Hey there -

I've got a spare Ignitor that should work on your year and model bike.

If you want to try this CDI, let's meet up and I'll lend it to you and we'll see if that fixes your problem.

It was replaced when it started to show signs of an internal crack because the tacho was dropping out every now and then and when I pushed down on the Ignitor it would come back up...

Rich

RJ Triumph · 12-11-2012, 06:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RICHW

Hey there -

I've got a spare Ignitor that should work on your year and model bike.

If you want to try this CDI, let's meet up and I'll lend it to you and we'll see if that fixes your problem.

It was replaced when it started to show signs of an internal crack because the tacho was dropping out every now and then and when I pushed down on the Ignitor it would come back up...

Rich

Hey Rich! Great to hear from you. Thanks for the offer. That would be great. There is a metric screw and bolt store I have been meaning to get to for a while down by you that would be a great reason to go there as well. I still have your number so ill connect with you this weekend if you are around?

Aussie_T100 · 12-11-2012, 08:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RJ Triumph

I do not have a garage so all repairs have to be done on the street except on the rare occasion that I can get the bike into my living room in my apartment building (which I did this summer for 2 months). Because of this difficulty I am relegated to doing only certain repairs at this current time. The easiest and first thing I’d like to do is to raise the seat. I will do this and to make sure nothing is touching the CDI and then ride her for a while and see how it goes.

I will visually check all of the fuel lines and again to see if anything stands out. I’m not sure what else I can do electrically speaking while she is parked on the street. It rains out the blue here and is hot and humid so it’s not all that conducive to doing any sort of work outdoors.

I will check all of the “easy” things suggested throughout this thread and report back as I do them and as I have a chance to ride her and see if it worked. I don’t think it would make sense to do too many alterations at one time as I won’t be able to narrow down the culprits and to see what the issue is.

I’ll start with the cheapest and easiest first and that seems to be raising the seat. So off the to the hardware store I go and I will report back.

Thanks to everyone very much! I’m not too optimistic about this being the cause but it is easy and cheap.. so I’ll go from here.

If the ignitor is at fault the damage is already done and packing the seat will not eliminate the problem. Trying what I suggested is easy enough surely and it will tell you straight away if the ignitor is the problem. If the ignitor is the cause it will eventually die completely potentially leaving you on the side of the road with a dead bike.

RJ Triumph · 12-11-2012, 09:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aussie_T100

If the ignitor is at fault the damage is already done and packing the seat will not eliminate the problem. Trying what I suggested is easy enough surely and it will tell you straight away if the ignitor is the problem. If the ignitor is the cause it will eventually die completely potentially leaving you on the side of the road with a dead bike.

I have done this before and the bike does not cut out or stutter when I push down on the CDI. I think a 120 person on the seat probably pushes down more on the CDI than my thumb does... so I will report back after I have some time and put some miles on with the new washers on. The issue is that I don’t have a backseat rider for the next 3 weeks as my girlfriend is traveling for work, so I may have a “good” bike now only to find it acting up once she or someone else hops on.. time will tell.

Thank you for your suggestions.

RJ

blewey · 12-11-2012, 10:44 PM

Can you see the throttle position at all when this happens? I mean, are the throttle plates moving when you twist the grip? if not, then maybe it's the grip itself? It sounds very mechanical linkage-like to me. especially since the battery connection is obviously good and fuel lines have been examined.

Army Mom · 12-12-2012, 05:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bluesforchallah

Was this happening while the bike was at dead stop idle? I have an extra ignitor that I was considering putting on the bike and taking it for a spin to see if this would cure the bikes hiccup.

The hiccup was happening as I was riding. The dying started out when I was at a stop. Then it started dying while riding as it progressively worsened and died several times on the way to my mechanic. Ultimately, it stopped running completely. My mechanic had a hard time figuring out what was wrong with it, but after he replaced the ignitor, it had no more problems.

JFowler176 · 12-12-2012, 10:05 AM

RJ,
I had the SAME EXACT problem. We finally figured it out after 3 months in the shop and multiple guesswork repairs. It was a loose bullet connecter on the small wire that branches off of the positive battery cable that runs to the instrument gauges.

Trace the positive battery cable from the battery until you find the small wire that branches off. Follow that small wire until you find the bullet connecter. Simply cut it off and hardwire this connection together. Might fix your problem. Definitely corrected mine.