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Twins Technical Talk Technical Talk for Hinckley Triumph Twins: Bonneville, T100, Speedmaster, America, Thruxton, and Scrambler.

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Old 12-08-2012, 01:56 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Is this a permanent magnet type starter motor? I suspect you have missaligned the centre body (field coil or permanent magnet) of the starter. Don't know how but anythings possible eh Murphy, This can cause the starter motor to run in backwards which would dissengage the sprag clutch. There's normally a roll pin or notch on the brush housing that aligns with the main centre body (stator housing) of the starter to keep the alignment right. Us old farts use a centre punch to mark everything before dissassembly to keep Murphy away.
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Last edited by plodalong; 12-08-2012 at 06:23 PM.
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Old 12-09-2012, 05:06 PM   #12 (permalink)
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... all good tips; thanks guys.

At this point I think that I'll double check in-situ the alignment of the case and the centre body, in light of plodalong's remarks.

I suspect, however, that the exhaust header is coming off, and the starter motor is going on the bench.

The lesson here is probably to be less obsessive. All this nonsense to fix a leak that amounts to probably less than half a cup of oil in a year. sheesh.

.

Last edited by gjones; 12-09-2012 at 08:32 PM.
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Old 12-09-2012, 05:08 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Easy13 View Post

Da-dah, da-dah
Press the shiny start button,
Da-dah, da-dah
But the engine don't run
Da-dah, da-dah
Check the circuits and fuses
Da-dah, da-dah
Think my starter motor's done
Da-dah, da-dah
Ask the experts on T-Rat
Da-dah, da-dah
Tryin to get me some clues
Da-dah, da-dah
Now it looks like I'm singin
THE STARTER-MOTOR BLUES

... heh, heh, that's pretty good
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Old 12-22-2012, 09:42 PM   #14 (permalink)
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.... follow up

Just to follow up on how this ended:

1) with the starter motor failing to turn the engine, I felt that it had to come out and be bench tested

2) to remove the starter, it requires that the right side line to the oil cooler be removed, minimally at the bottom. You may need to raise the bike, since your wrench is probably too long to fit.

3) you will also need to remove the right-side exhaust, minimally, loosen all fastenings, especially the rusted nuts that fasten the header to the cylinder head, and the clamp that fastens the wee pipe that joins the right and left exhaust pipes underneath the bike. (note: loosening these nuts could have been a world of pain. A dose of WD40, a two hour wait and scrubbing the rusted studs with a tooth brush was all that was needed in this case.)

4) the other end of the header is bolted to the frame, with the button-head bolt located behind the foot brake lever. Removal of the foot brake lever assembly requires removal of the chain sprocket cover. This is great fun, isn't it?

You can however avoid this make-work project somewhat, if you can access the bolt that fastens the foot brake lever to the assembly, from underneath the bike and from the other side. You will need an 18" extension, a knuckle adapter, and an allen-key socket head, to do this.

5) With the right side exhaust now completely loose, but in place, using a long bar, you can flex the exhaust just enough to provide the half-centimeter of extra space required to slide out the starter motor.

6) with the motor held by a vice, and the correct direction of rotation established by a mechanic who happened to be visiting, I discovered that, indeed, the direction of rotation was incorrect. I rotated the casing about 30 degrees clockwise, and this corrected the problem.

7) now that the starter motor was out, I had total access to the leaking threaded plugs that were the objective in the first place, so I pulled them out, wrapped them in teflon tape, and cranked them real snug. If they still leak, I'm buying a rubber mat to put under the bike. Or another bike.

8) everything went back together ok. Following advice on other threads, I did not replace the rusted nuts with stainless ones, since stainless apparently sets up a chemical reaction causing a total bond with the stud. I also used a copper-based, high temp anti-seize compound from loc-tite, on the stud threads, and having tightened the original rusty nuts onto the studs, I capped them with nice shiny acorn nuts.

What a clusterf##k. I must have spent 10 or 12 hours on this, over 2 weekends. For a few oil spots....

Sometimes they give, sometimes they take


.
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Old 12-22-2012, 10:06 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Ahh but think of the things you've learned
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