Triumphrat

LazyEye · 12-05-2012, 07:44 PM

Started a thread last week (accidentally in Twins Talk), and after working through most suggestions offered there, I'm still having no luck.

Heres a link for background: http://www.triumphrat.net/twins-talk...it-myself.html

So, ignition on, head, tail & turn lights all working, horn ok, neutral & oil lights on per usual. Hit starter and all I get is a "ch-ch-ch-ch..." Try start with clutch pulled in & stand up, "ch-ch-ch-ch... Checked, and NO SPARK. It's like the starter is fine but the engine won't fire.

After some hasty (Procom ignitor/CDI) & sensible (multimeter, battery charger) purchases, I'm still having no luck. Per Sal Paradise's suggestion I checked the wiring & switches as I went along and things seem secure, but that's going to be double checked tomorrow. So far:

1. Battery - charged & reading +/- 12.65V
2. Fuses - checked visually & with multimeter - OK
3. Ignition switch & relays - OK
4. Sidestand switch -

I was getting readings reverse of what Haynes said I should; was a little loose, tightened up & same.
5. Clutch switch - OK
6. Neutral switch - OK, light works, so there should be no issue(?) Will check tomorrow.
7. Oil pressure switch - will check 2mrrw, ran out of light today, but mine is finicky and not a cause for concern in this case I think.
8. Ignitor/CDI - have new Procom as well as Stock Gill, one's gotta work I figure.
9.. Ignition HT Coil/Spark Plug caps - I think these may be the problem. Checked primary circuit resistance on HT and it's within spec, but secondary circuit resistance and spark plug caps return on OL (no continuity) reading. I'm guessing this is the issue, since all of the other electrical and ignitions systems I've checked seem to be fine.

That said, I wanted to solicit some advice before pouring more money into this or acquiescing and taking it to the dealer.

Long story short, I got it back from dealer for new chain & some other 12K service req's, worked beautifully for one day then wouldn't start the next. Fact that I gave my friend a ride home on the night before pointed to cracked ignitor/CDI since he was bouncing around a bit and it was really cold, but my gut is now telling me new HT coil, and new spark plug caps while I'm at it. I'm really wondering why that would have failed so suddenly.

ANy help much appreciated. Im a bike noob and mechanical layman. Thanks.

SCbonneville · 12-05-2012, 07:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LazyEye

Started a thread last week (accidentally in Twins Talk), and after working through most suggestions offered there, I'm still having no luck.

Heres a link for background: http://www.triumphrat.net/twins-talk...it-myself.html

So, ignition on, head, tail & turn lights all working, horn ok, neutral & oil lights on per usual. Hit starter and all I get is a "ch-ch-ch-ch..." Try start with clutch pulled in & stand up, "ch-ch-ch-ch... Checked, and NO SPARK. It's like the starter is fine but the engine won't fire.

After some hasty (Procom ignitor/CDI) & sensible (multimeter, battery charger) purchases, I'm still having no luck. Per Sal Paradise's suggestion I checked the wiring & switches as I went along and things seem secure, but that's going to be double checked tomorrow. So far:

1. Battery - charged & reading +/- 12.65V
2. Fuses - checked visually & with multimeter - OK
3. Ignition switch & relays - OK
4. Sidestand switch -

I was getting readings reverse of what Haynes said I should; was a little loose, tightened up & same.
5. Clutch switch - OK
6. Neutral switch - OK, light works, so there should be no issue(?) Will check tomorrow.
7. Oil pressure switch - will check 2mrrw, ran out of light today, but mine is finicky and not a cause for concern in this case I think.
8. Ignitor/CDI - have new Procom as well as Stock Gill, one's gotta work I figure.
9.. Ignition HT Coil/Spark Plug caps - I think these may be the problem. Checked primary circuit resistance on HT and it's within spec, but secondary circuit resistance and spark plug caps return on OL (no continuity) reading. I'm guessing this is the issue, since all of the other electrical and ignitions systems I've checked seem to be fine.

That said, I wanted to solicit some advice before pouring more money into this or acquiescing and taking it to the dealer.

Long story short, I got it back from dealer for new chain & some other 12K service req's, worked beautifully for one day then wouldn't start the next. Fact that I gave my friend a ride home on the night before pointed to cracked ignitor/CDI since he was bouncing around a bit and it was really cold, but my gut is now telling me new HT coil, and new spark plug caps while I'm at it. I'm really wondering why that would have failed so suddenly.

ANy help much appreciated. Im a bike noob and mechanical layman. Thanks.

Not sure what "ch-ch-ch-ch" is supposed to emulate/mean... Is that the "sound" of the starter spinning over? Is it spinning over at a "good" rate or is it sluggish?

Have you had your battery load tested? It may have ok voltage but not enough amperage to fully spin the motor and light it off... 12.65 v is getting on the light side of the voltage that you want to see...

Have you tried to jump start it off another vehicle?

Knowing that you're giving it a full dose of juice is the first step of trouble shooting the situation...

Forchetto · 12-06-2012, 12:23 AM

If you do the test shown on this thread and get something like 13k Ohms or a little more, the coil secondary winding, plug caps and leads/connections are OK.

If you get no reading eliminate one component at the time to find out which one is open circuit although I suspect it's the coil winding or the plug wire connector to the coil:

http://www.triumphrat.net/twins-tech...esistance.html

LazyEye · 12-06-2012, 05:23 AM

I will do the test tomorrow when I get up, and report back. Thanks for help Dr. Forchetto

LazyEye · 12-06-2012, 04:56 PM

So I charged the battery overnight, reading 12.98V. SCBonneville, the starter is turning over at a good rate, not sluggish at all

Did the test suggested by Forchetto, and the spark plug cables & caps are good, but the coil was in the circuit it was giving me an "OL" reading on the multimeter = infinite resistance => bad ignition coil.

Got a Nology Profire, installed it, drained excess fuel from carb bowls => Starter turns & turns but engine still does not fire ???

LazyEye · 12-06-2012, 06:46 PM

After some research on the forums and elsewhere, I'm guessing that my spark plugs are fouled.

I'm letting the engine air out, will get new plugs and drain oil tomorrow as the oil lever indicator window is reading too high, and I'm sure there is gas in the cylinders and engine oil.

Any tips for getting oil out of the cylinders, turn alternator perhaps? (saw that technique used on a few youtube videos)