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Twins Technical Talk Technical Talk for Hinckley Triumph Twins: Bonneville, T100, Speedmaster, America, Thruxton, and Scrambler.

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Old 12-03-2012, 09:54 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Autocom electrical installation

Hi

I have a new bonneville T100 and would like to install autocom.

On the autocom site is says always connect the black to the battery directly - easy enough.

For the red it says to connect it to a recommended, switched ignition fused supply (5 amps maximum unless you fit an additional in line fuse between 3 and 5 amps). It suggests positive veed to the tail lights or rear brake light switch, (always solder, do not use quick connectors).

Could someone suggest the best place to connect the red.

Also how do i do it. Do i remove the plastic covering on the cable, wrap the red around the exposed cable, add a bit of solder and cover it up with electrical tape?

All responses greatly received. i have searched but didn't find much.
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Old 12-03-2012, 12:21 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by en ville View Post
Hi

I have a new bonneville T100 and would like to install autocom.

On the autocom site is says always connect the black to the battery directly - easy enough.

For the red it says to connect it to a recommended, switched ignition fused supply (5 amps maximum unless you fit an additional in line fuse between 3 and 5 amps). It suggests positive veed to the tail lights or rear brake light switch, (always solder, do not use quick connectors).

Could someone suggest the best place to connect the red.

Also how do i do it. Do i remove the plastic covering on the cable, wrap the red around the exposed cable, add a bit of solder and cover it up with electrical tape?

All responses greatly received. i have searched but didn't find much.
That would be fuse 7 which handles the horn, indicators and brake light. Its a 10 amp circuit but you'd be best using this and adding the smaller fuse, preferably 3 amp.

No need for any soldering. Ignore the advice about that because autocom assume you are going to start cutting up your wiring harness. The wire for fuse 7 can be found going to the base of the turn signal flasher unit. Its the Orange/Green wire. You would have to remove the flasher relay base and plug the wires directly back onto the relay, with the autocom wire having a double 'spade' (lucar) connector crimped on it to join up with the Orange/Green. The rubber fitting band is then taken off the relay base and pushed over the flasher relay to remount it.

The flasher relay is the middle one located under the left side panel. To see how to remove the wires from the relay base, see this post..

http://www.triumphrat.net/twins-tech...ml#post2311527

Last edited by Ripper; 12-03-2012 at 12:25 PM. Reason: extra text added
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Old 12-03-2012, 12:23 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I would connect both wires to the position or parking front lamp wires.

No need to go to all the trouble of running a wire to the battery. That unit has a low power consumption and it can be connected to something like the position or parking lamp inside the headlamp.

This is switched and fused. Connect the Red wire (+) of the Autocom unit to the yellow wire of the lamp, the black (-) to the black. The wire colours sometimes change so if you have a multimeter you can check the polarity.

You can tap into the existing wires using a couple of quick-splice Scotchlok connectors, no stripping or soldering required. Just a pair of pliers:

Video of how to use them here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=GJn-8cRkk-s
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Old 12-03-2012, 03:05 PM   #4 (permalink)
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.... You can tap into the existing wires using a couple of quick-splice Scotchlok connectors, no stripping or soldering required ...
Extremely rare that I would ever disagree with your typically excellent advice Forchetto - unfortunately will on this occasion.
Those Scotchlok connectors are just horrible device - they act like a blade constantly sawing away at your wire conductor.

A PosiTap is a far superior device and the one I would recommend for tap-splicing - it is a much less invasive device and not prone to similar failure mechanism/damage that the Scotchlok exhibits.

http://www.posi-lock.com/posiplug.html

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Old 12-03-2012, 03:17 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks. I have seen Posi-lock splices but didn't know about the Posi-tap device. I'll have to get some.

I've never really liked insulation displacement connectors and the Scotchlocks are just that. I know they're used on telephone connections and all sorts of other low power devices, but as i've said I don't trust them much...

Same with wire-wrapping post technique...In the 70's lots of TV's started coming out with wire-wrapped connections...nothing but trouble, and yet when I worked on Military stuff at GEC-Marconi in the UK, they used lots.
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Old 12-03-2012, 03:37 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I'm not keen on scotch lock but the posi tap looks really interesting.
Worth a try, they are available on Amazon is there anywhere else?

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Old 12-03-2012, 03:39 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by triplestrength View Post
I'm not keen on scotch lock but the posi tap looks really interesting.
Worth a try, they are available on Amazon is there anywhere else?
RS Components in the UK have them:

http://ae.rsdelivers.com/product/pos...b/6666029.aspx



Also places like this:

http://www.performancemotorcare.com/...onnectors.html


Last edited by Forchetto; 12-03-2012 at 03:42 PM.
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Old 12-03-2012, 03:56 PM   #8 (permalink)
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You are as ever a star! Forchetto.

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Old 12-04-2012, 10:18 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Thanks for the responses. it seems easier to attach to the front lamps although Rippers response is a very interesting alternative. i have ordered the posi tap parts.

I am going to install it under the seat. I think there is just about room for it there.
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Old 12-04-2012, 10:30 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by en ville View Post
Thanks for the responses. it seems easier to attach to the front lamps although Rippers response is a very interesting alternative. i have ordered the posi tap parts.

I am going to install it under the seat. I think there is just about room for it there.
In which case en ville - the flasher relay would be the better spot because its going to be a lot closer than the headlamp shell so you can keep your wiring much shorter. You'll find both wires that you need on the relay:

+12v - Orange/Green. Goes to terminal 49 on the relay.
Ground - Black. Goes to terminal 31 on the relay.

This method is also completely non-invasive since all you are doing is putting connectors on the autocom unit which simply plug onto the bike's wiring - no puncturing of insulation, cutting or soldering. These are the connectors you need (but red ones - they take a thinner wire gauge)..

http://www.bellanco.com.au/product_i...nals/BQCMF.jpg

Last edited by Ripper; 12-04-2012 at 10:37 AM. Reason: added info
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