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Twins Technical Talk Technical Talk for Hinckley Triumph Twins: Bonneville, T100, Speedmaster, America, Thruxton, and Scrambler.

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Old 12-02-2012, 12:45 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Chain Adjustment Slipping

Hi Folks 2012 bonnie with 4500ks on it
Looking for possible answers to my chain adjustment which slips back to my first notch on the left hand side the right seems to hold reasonably well
I do all the right things eg loosen the main axle bolt turn the adjusters counter clockwise on both sides to get right tension and line up evenly on both notches, then tighten the main axle bolt firmly then turn adjusting bolts clockwise to a firm position.
After taking it for a short ride the adjustment slips back to the first position on the right hand side.
Im sure the main axle bolt is tightened up enough i found at first the whole axle would turn once a certain pressure was reached so i held the other side with a spanner that seemed to allow me to tighten it up properly.
Any thoughts greatly appreciated Cheers Klem
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Last edited by klem; 12-02-2012 at 12:59 AM.
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Old 12-02-2012, 04:35 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Don't turn the adjusters clockwise following final tightening of the axle nut, turn them anti-clockwise instead to a torque of 5 Nm, just hand tight really.

This is an excerpt from the handbook:

Tighten the adjusters,
counter-clockwise, to
44 lbf in (5 Nm).
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Old 12-02-2012, 04:38 AM   #3 (permalink)
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You're not tightening the rear axle enough, I'm assuming the drive chain is pulling the axle out of line. Triumph recommend removing the silencer to get a sockets and a torque wrench on the nut and bolt, the recommended torque being 85 Nm (63 lb ft).

I prefer the simpler method of using open ended spanners. To achieve the necessary guesstimate torque brute force and top quality open ended spanners are your friends here, I doubt you'll strip the threads but I've heard mention of the jaws shearing off cheap spanners. I use a big old Elora 15/16" AF open ended spanner for the nut and an equally old Elora 3/4" open ended spanner for the bolt and tighten both as much as I'm able (I believe the actual nut flange and bolt head dimensions are 24 mm and 19 mm). In over a dozen chain adjustments I've never experienced a problem with axle movement or spanner failure.

Lastly and apologises if I'm stating the obvious now but remember you're tightening the nut onto the bolt and not the bolt into the nut.
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Old 12-02-2012, 05:02 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Forchetto View Post
Don't turn the adjusters clockwise following final tightening of the axle nut, turn them anti-clockwise instead to a torque of 5 Nm, just hand tight really.

This is an excerpt from the handbook:

Tighten the adjusters,
counter-clockwise, to
44 lbf in (5 Nm).
Cheers Forchetto
My manual tells me to " Turn the bolts anti-clockwise to
reduce chain slack and clockwise to create it."
So for me to tighten the chain i turn the adjusting nuts anti clockwise tighten the axle nut then continue to turn them slightly again anti clockwise???

If i am reading you correctly i should not be turning them "clockwise"
I had a reread of manual and it seems my "final" turns have been in the wrong direction??
If im reading the mechanics of this correctly it would seem that the adjustment bolts and washers are hard against the adjustment mechanism instead of being up against the swinging arm???
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Old 12-02-2012, 05:08 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Cheers Art
I am putting a fair bit of force on the axle nut with a similar 15/16 ring spanner (it is very handy for this job) while staying the other side with a spanner, i dont think it is the main axle nut but i will be keeping a close eye on it along with the other things i need to do to correct this problem.
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Old 12-02-2012, 05:06 PM   #6 (permalink)
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after adjusting the chain whether slackening or tightening you need to remove the end play from the adjuster, hence final movement anti clockwise to 5Nm, or just nipped up firm.

if the end play in the adjusters are not taken out the chain will slacken even though the axle nut is torqued up tight
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Old 12-02-2012, 06:55 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I can't understand anyone risking not using a torque wrench on such an important nut.

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Old 12-02-2012, 08:40 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denbow View Post
I can't understand anyone risking not using a torque wrench on such an important nut.

which one, the axle or the adjuster?

I feel confident in using one in this application and if you know what you are doing no need to use a torque wrench. the axle nut just needs to be done up bloody tight with a spanner. the axle is too big to risk over tightening unless one is built like a gorilla
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Old 12-03-2012, 02:53 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denbow View Post
I can't understand anyone risking not using a torque wrench on such an important nut.

Don't see it as a risk myself, I've always specified axle torque as tight and then some. Put a torque wrench on my axle nuts and you'll find them to be +80 lbf-ft (that's +108Nm or, +960 lbf-in you had me confused there for a moment Forcheto).

When you have your car tyres replaced the garage doesn't torque the wheel nuts, sure they put a torque wrench on after tightening just to insure they are +specification. I've yet to see a tyre fitter check the torque and find it needs another nip.
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Old 12-03-2012, 05:19 AM   #10 (permalink)
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When you have your car tyres replaced the garage doesn't torque the wheel nuts, sure they put a torque wrench on after tightening just to insure they are +specification. I've yet to see a tyre fitter check the torque and find it needs another nip.

Good point Art
keeping a visual as well as a feel of the nut assures me of being close enough, removing the mufflers puts me off even though i have a torque wrench.
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