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Twins Technical Talk Technical Talk for Hinckley Triumph Twins: Bonneville, T100, Speedmaster, America, Thruxton, and Scrambler.

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Old 11-27-2012, 04:50 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Hello
Yes I have had an intermittent problem of engine cutting out suddenly and then failing to start only to fire up some time later. I am pretty sure now that the problem is bad contact in the igniter plug. I am going to investigate clearance between the plug and the seat pan. If it is too close I will relieve the seat pan to provide more clearance. I will report back in due course.
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Old 11-27-2012, 05:37 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Lucky, the issue with your bike stalling at the red light is eerily familiar of my issue. Before you tear into the alternator cover, in addition to the air mixture screw rebuild kit, try blowing out the air mixture screw and pilot jet holes with carb cleaner and compressed air like I suggested. Also, have you had your carburetors balanced recently?

The symptoms sound more like an air/fuel ratio issue than an electrical/ignition problem.

Three Carburetor Problems:

1) Rich Mixture means the carburetor is delivering too much gasoline. Typical symptoms of a rich mixture are:

Poor fuel economy

Sluggish acceleration

Choke not needed from cold starts

Sooty or black spark plugs

Sooty or black muffler end pipes

Strong smell of gasoline when machine is at idle

Uneven running (will often slow from regular idle rpm's and stop)

2) Lean Mixtures means the carburetor is delivering too much air. Typical symptoms of a lean mixture are:

Backfires as the throttle is closed (primarily during coast-downs)

Lurching acceleration

White or light grey spark plugs

Requires excessive amounts of choke to run/start

White or light grey muffler end pipes

Bluing (on chrome systems) of the exhaust header down-pipes

3) Incorrect Adjustment applies to carburetors that have incorrect adjustment of the air/fuel screw and the balance between two or more carburetors - where fitted. Incorrect adjustment can produce any of the previously noted symptoms. On multi-cylinder machines, with separate carburetors for each cylinder, the following symptoms are typical of an adjustment problem:

Poor overall performance

Rattling sounds from the clutch

Engine tends to stall easily

Erratic acceleration

Poor fuel economy

Misfires and/or backfires

Edit: I also found this to be very beneficial for understanding how each of the different components of the carb work. I was completely clueless.

http://www.duncanracing.com/TechCent...arbJetting.pdf
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Last edited by bluesforchallah; 11-27-2012 at 05:43 PM.
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Old 11-30-2012, 08:56 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Good reference blues.

I think I need to sort out any leaks on this bike first like you have advised me. New o-rings and mixture screws are going on this weekend followed by new rubber intake boots and stainless clamps.
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Old 11-30-2012, 09:17 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I'm thinking I need to do this more and more. Bike just died on my at a stoplight today. Second time this has happened.
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Originally Posted by luckyduck View Post
I'm worried it's an ignitor problem. That's a $250 problem right there and I'm not quite ready to confront it haha!

I guess I should just go for a procom unit.
If it runs well until it warms up and then quits, try the ignition coil first. Might save you a bunch of dough-re-mi.
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Old 05-28-2013, 03:29 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Wow, this became a sticky. To follow up, I found a degraded o-ring behind my right intake manifold. Replacing this fixed my hard-to-start issue and my stalling at stoplights issue. I still have a intermittent problem where I get light stutters under acceleration out of a right hand turn. I'm trying to figure out whether this is a P/U coil problem or a float level problem.
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Old 05-30-2013, 11:58 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Still having issues with my bike stuttering at stop lights. After stripping everything between the cylinder head and air filter to check and eliminate the possibility of air leak and after replacing the ignition coil, I decided to dig into the alternator cover to check the gap of the pick up coil. Because I already had purchased a new one, I had planned on replacing it anyway once I got in there. Before I started ripping anything out, I checked the gap and sure enough, the gap was set incorrectly at 1.0mm. Because my issue seemed to have started after my 12,000 mile service, I often wondered if the shop had gone in and set the gap incorrectly.

After finding the gap set incorrectly, I proceeded with the replacement. I think the most complicated moment was rerouting the wires to remove it from the bike. Unlike a lot of others, I had no problems at all with getting the cover or the pick up coil mounting bolts off. Hardly any effort at all. Like someone else mentioned, another set of hands to hold the pick up coil and feeler gauge while you tighten the bolts would be helpful, but not necessary. Then I found the wires on the replacement part were not quite as long as the original, so I had to find a shortcut when routing the wires back up the frame. Not really an issue there either.

Because I didn't get started until late and finished up even later, I didn't have an opportunity to test ride the bike. Hoping to do that this evening when I get home from work. I'll report back with my findings.

For what it's worth, I've checked my seat pan to make sure it wasn't rubbing with the igniter and found no signs. However, I noticed that my seat pan has a ridge that runs from the right to left side in the center and sits right on the wires that lead into the igniter. Almost as if it were strangling the igniter by the neck. This is where I will be focusing my attention if the pick up coil doesn't resolve my issue.
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Old 03-08-2014, 07:56 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Make sure that you have a good torx bit. In the end, I ended up having to soak the bolts overnight with penetrating fluid, heating them with a heat gun, and using an impact driver (it's a little unnerving hammering on an aluminum motor). And still, I gnarled the heads up and had to replace them. I ended up replacing them with hex-keyed (allen) bolts.
Sorry to resurrect this thread, but any other suggestions of how to get the ignition sensor off? I'm having a bastard of a time removing the torx screws.

Chewed through 2 heat treated torx bits from auto zone. The screw heads still look ok, but I'm worried they're going to get stripped if I try again.

Also, what kind of penetrating fluid and how should I soak the screws and it from entering the engine?
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Old 03-20-2014, 04:52 PM   #18 (permalink)
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It is very simple! Just remind yourself to gap it at one on the nubs


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Old 03-27-2014, 09:34 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Auto zone wouldn't be my first choice for tools

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Old 05-03-2014, 06:11 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spliff View Post
Sorry to resurrect this thread, but any other suggestions of how to get the ignition sensor off? I'm having a bastard of a time removing the torx screws.

Chewed through 2 heat treated torx bits from auto zone. The screw heads still look ok, but I'm worried they're going to get stripped if I try again.

Also, what kind of penetrating fluid and how should I soak the screws and it from entering the engine?
Get a breaker bar and the torx screws will come loose.
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