Triumphrat

Arkwright

Removed my carb needles to do some checking on shims and now have a bugger of a job re seating the rubber diaphragm in the groove around the carb top.

Is there a trick to doing this or do I just have to be a bit more patient and play around with it until it seats properly?

huggy39

Try warming with a hair dryer to shrink the diaphragm, if not replace

denbow

Use a smear or vaseline around the rim to hold it in position. There's a location dimple moulded into the rubber that should be automatically aligned if you haven't removed the diaphrams from the pistons.
Also note the following -
1/ When you replace the white plastic holder make sure one of the feet doesn't cover the air hole in the piston.
2/ When replacing the chrome caps make sure the spring fits squarely around the two tabs.

Baltobonneville

It's been a while, but I don't think that I removed the diaphragm to deal with needles and shims. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.

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Marty
2005 Bonneville Blue 790cc, AI removed, Staintunes RC, Uni filter, no snorkel, 118/40/NBZT "Thruxton" needles/1 shim/3 turns, tachometer, Ikon 7610s, Ricor Intiminators, Dunlop GT501s, D9 gauge panel.

denbow

Baltobonneville - You don't but not everybody knows that and removes them regardless

luckyduck

I had no trouble removing and replacing the rubber diaphram on my '01. Strange.

Now I'm all nervous and want to go check em to make sure they are secure.

Bron-Yr-Aur

It's a very delicate process, but the diaphragm should sit in the groove with no help, you just can't bump it around or it will pop out. Be very careful and look the whole way around it as you're placing the cap. I pinched my diaphragm when I first got the bike and ended up paying the $80 to replace it.

Since then, I've had the caps off many times with no problems. But like I said, verrrrry carefully. It just rests in the groove, it doesn't 'pop' in, thus the constant inspection as the cap is going down.

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(The artist formerly known as kreemsicleT100)

"Ya can't have 'no' in your heart. Life's a garden. Dig it." - Joe Dirt
"If y'ain't first, yer last." - Ricky Bobby
Bron-Yr-Aur Garage

PieMan

Similar to what Huggy39 said.

In the Summer you can remove and refit the slides without a problem, but as it gets colder the rubber tends to expand a little and it would seem impossible to re-fit. I know it doesn't sound right, but if you put the slide on a central heating radiator for ten minutes before re-fitting, the rubber will contract and fit in the groove with few problems.

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Mike (UK)

04 Bonnie Black Special

http://www.triumphtwinpower.com

bonza

yes, rubber reacts to heat in an interesting way as heating causes rubber to contract, and cooling causes it to expand. there is a "law" that describes it, but can no longer remember its name

important to understand with anyone who has to work with hydraulics and seals like o-rings, especially when rubber is under tension

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2007 B&W T100.
AI & Snorkel gone, Dom Tourers, 40/120/1 shim 3 turns, TTP stage one, Dart screen, Pingel fuel valve, Monza gas cap, Avon Roadriders, Triumph fabric saddle bags sometimes

Askari

Believe it is called "Hookes" law

Rubber goes through 3 stages Glass( when real cold), Elastic (will return to correct length and visco elastic doesnt return to original.
Believe this is why the Challenger blew up, an ulatra cold seal.

Could this have any relationship to cam gasket issue!