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Twins Technical Talk Technical Talk for Hinckley Triumph Twins: Bonneville, T100, Speedmaster, America, Thruxton, and Scrambler.

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Old 11-17-2012, 05:43 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Do I need to remove carbs?

Is it necessary to remove my carbs to re jet and if not, does anyone have a link to a good pictorial guide showing how it's done?

Many thanks
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Old 11-17-2012, 05:57 AM   #2 (permalink)
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No need, it's just making a lot of extra work. There's a guide on here somewhere but I'm damned where it is. Look in the stickies under carb modifications.
If you're only changing the mains it should take you 15 mins per carb. If you need any help give me shout.
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Old 11-17-2012, 08:41 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Count yourself lucky you've not got a Scrambler - the high exhaust means you've got to take the buggers off. Get yourself a replacement set of hex screws handy too - the originals are made of cheese
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Old 11-17-2012, 09:16 AM   #4 (permalink)
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+1 to bobbo

"soft, spreadable cheese" and torqued to over 12 million ft.lbs...
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Old 11-17-2012, 10:47 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clydeturbeaux View Post
"soft, spreadable cheese" and torqued to over 12 million ft.lbs...
+1.

Plasma
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Old 11-17-2012, 08:20 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by clydeturbeaux View Post
"soft, spreadable cheese" and torqued to over 12 million ft.lbs...
That's not possible but I do agree.

It is a 20 minute job to pull the carbs and 5 minutes to do the job as opposed to 20 minutes of fiddling to get the jets in in situ.
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Old 11-17-2012, 08:35 PM   #7 (permalink)
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You're right Steven, I should have said an estimated 12million ft/lbs.
My torque wrench doesn't really go that high.
Can we agree that the little buggers are tight?
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Old 11-17-2012, 08:52 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clydeturbeaux View Post
Can we agree that the little buggers are tight?
Oh yes indeedy.

I pulled my carbs last weekend to put on some pod filters and already had the replacement S/S hex head screws to replace them that I bought from ages ago.

Gee, I am glad, I did as 2 of them stripped so easily even when I knew of the issue, had a good Philips head and oodles of pressure and I even gave them a tap prior to trying to shift them!!

Arkwright > You don't have to take them fully off as you can remove the intake booties and pivot the conjoined carbs left or right. That is easier than removing them fully. I don't have an airbox though so it may be more difficult if you still have one.
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Old 11-18-2012, 04:00 AM   #9 (permalink)
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To undo those rotten carb screws use a good substantial pair of long nose pliers with sharp serrations. Grip the screw and squeeze hard. Apply turning pressure and the screw will crack and then be easy to remove with a screwdriver. The screw only has to move a fraction of a turn to break free. Replace with stainless steel allen heads. Hope this helps.
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Old 11-18-2012, 05:36 AM   #10 (permalink)
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You need a right angle driver, something like a mini-ratchet with the right bit. Ensure the bit fits the screw head well, with as little play as possible. Dip the bit into some fine grinding paste, this improves grip on the screwhead no end, try it sometime with any awkward screws, it's amazingly effective.



Strictly speaking those screws give people a lot of grief because they're not Phillips as commonly believed. They're JIS screws, a Japanese standard identifiable by a little punch mark on the head. They're subtly different from normal cross head screws and are often found on Japanese-sourced components such as carbs and injection systems, switchgear, etc.

The proper bits are hard to find, but there are some suppliers like this:

http://www.rjrcooltools.com/vessel.cfm

Last edited by Forchetto; 11-18-2012 at 05:40 AM.
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