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Twins Technical Talk Technical Talk for Hinckley Triumph Twins: Bonneville, T100, Speedmaster, America, Thruxton, and Scrambler.

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Old 11-28-2012, 10:10 AM   #41 (permalink)
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I just went with the speedmaster since it pushes dual 2 pots like the stock f3. Since I have the electronic speedo I am trying to keep it as stock looking as possible just the changes I need to make. What calipers did you use to get 3 pots?
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Old 11-28-2012, 04:13 PM   #42 (permalink)
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Don't want to hijack the thread, but Rich, are you using the same 3 pot calipers
that Ventura used from the Hornet, Transalp etc. If so, did they bolt to the F3
forks without any problems? I was thinking about getting a set of them as well.
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Old 11-29-2012, 08:54 AM   #43 (permalink)
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Siskiyou,

Yep, these are the same 3-pot Nissin calipers off the list of hondas that Ventura posted. I ended up having to buy a set in order to get the left side - which is what I really wanted/was all I needed at the time. I've had F3 bits kicking around for the better part of 2 years and knew I would eventually get around to fitting them...so having to buy both sides wasn't a turn off.

The honda 3-pots not only bolt up to our bikes, but also the F3 lowers. So for those doing the F3 front end & wheels who are looking for calipers, you can either try to score a set of the 3-pots, buy a F3 caliper set, or just buy a speedmaster right side caliper & retain your existing left caliper. All bolt right up and all are of floating design.

Cheers,

--Rich

P.S. - Actionabe; search the forum for 'honda 3-pot caliper' and you'll get tons of info on where to look for these calipers.

Last edited by beemerrich; 11-29-2012 at 08:56 AM. Reason: added ps
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Old 11-29-2012, 12:35 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Thanks, that's what I was thinking just didn't know if there was another caliper I didn't know about for the f3. I was looking at that thread before I committed to the f3 swap. Was amazed how closely the thruxton caliper resembles the f3 calipers I got..
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Old 11-29-2012, 01:46 PM   #45 (permalink)
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Thanks Rich - that was exactly the info I've been looking for. Now I just need to find a set.
Oh, and by the way I checked with a friend of mine who has a set of these calipers on his NV700 and
he says the master cylinder has a 1/2" piston in it which is the same as the F3 master. Don't know
if a little more volume might be needed for that 3rd piston on one side, but that gets you in the
ball park.

Last edited by Siskiyou; 11-29-2012 at 02:01 PM.
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Old 11-30-2012, 10:23 PM   #46 (permalink)
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What is everyone using for a front fender? Is the only way to do it to have a custom bracket made?
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Old 03-31-2014, 09:06 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Now, THAT'S a proper looking mudguard!
Details, please?
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Last edited by shoegaze; 03-31-2014 at 10:11 PM.
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Old 04-01-2014, 12:08 AM   #48 (permalink)
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Grab a beer. This is a long read, and I'll apologise in advance.

Since I've not heard this mentioned as a viable alternative to all of the expensive machining and fabricating, I thought I'd throw this one out there for everyone to chew on. This idea came to me after all this fiddling with each bit to correct an alignment issue more severe than probably most have experienced, changing out swingarms for less bias, and the like. It involves a lot more art, and just as much science, a jig, two torches and a hydraulic press, or a plasma torch and a welding rig.
Most of us are not going to do this on our own, but any decent old-fashioned alignment shop could do it in very short order:

The solution is to bend both legs of the swingarm to the right 1/4" (6.3mm).

I genuinely believe this is the easiest and cheapest way to cure every issue except the brake issue (no good one for that, unfortunately, as the rotor tracks inboard 7/16" (11mm) more on the Honda wheel than it did on the Triumph, and I'm not comfortable putting shims under the rotor, so shims between the caliper mounting plate and caliper will have to do until someone fabricates a 8-11mm thick aluminium spacer that mates precisely to the Honda wheel to push the rotor back to the left to allow for articulation or "float" of the caliper) or we find a better donor caliper that articulates inboard more than the Triumph one does. No kidding--when I torque my caliper down with no shims, it locks the wheel, and holds it fast.

As for achieving perfect alignment, I love precision more than most folks, and spend hours chasing away imperfection, but I also live in the real world. We assume when we purchase a new bike that it is perfect, but we all know it is not. My point? You could take 10 perfectly assembled, brand new bikes and they would all have slightly different alignment measurements. That's why things are adjustable on sensible machines. And for what it's worth, my original swing arm (that will now make a perfect candidate for cutting and bending) was welded "off tack" from the factory by what could only have been a drunkard on Monday morning.
Anyway, just a thought--and Pieman; if you run off with my idea of that custom rotor spacer, I want royalties, mate. Of course, you could always machine a thicker "up and over" caliper mounting bracket, and that would do the trick nicely.

Cheers, all.
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Last edited by shoegaze; 04-01-2014 at 12:23 AM.
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Old 04-01-2014, 12:10 PM   #49 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shoegaze View Post
The solution is to bend both legs of the swingarm to the right 1/4" (6.3mm).
Jim,

I love the way you're thinking here. This effectively centeres the wheel and keeps the stock spacers. The only issue I see above and beyond the noted shimming of the brake caliper is the sprocket alignment - which starts out slightly biased to the left and moves this bias to the right side .

Moving the sprocket to the right 6.3 mm would put it about 5 mm out of alignment with the front sprocket since it already is about 1mm or so out to the left. Pieman noted in his work up that you can shim the countershaft sprocket a maximum of 3 mm, meaning that the sprockets would then be 2 mm out of alignment. Overall, it translates into a transition from being out of alignment to the left by 1mm or so to being out of line by 2 mm to the right.

The other question that remains is where the F3 front wheel ends up in relation to the bike centerline. If the only factor is the difference in triple tree spread - and that is a big IF - then the F3 wheel is sitting 0.40 mm to the left of center using the stock F3 wheel spacers. I guess I need to go out to the garage & see how uniform the rotors line up with each of the fork legs on my thruxton...

Best regards,

--Rich

PS - so how well do things line up if you take that off-spec, welded up by a drunk swingarm and install it upside down? It's probably easier to weld on new shock mounts than it is to bend it properly....
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Old 04-01-2014, 06:47 PM   #50 (permalink)
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<<PS - so how well do things line up if you take that off-spec, welded up by a drunk swingarm and install it upside down? It's probably easier to weld on new shock mounts than it is to bend it properly.... >>

Buahahaha! I actually already thought about that, and it won't work, because the swingarm bias is deeply scalloped on the LH side to clear the frame.

So here are the two issues:
1) The lower shock mounting tabs which can be corrected (the torch is already out, right?)
2) The mounting flange for the rear sprocket.

Since the geometry between spacers does not change at all, the only machining needed to make this a perfect solution is to machine 2mm off of the sprocket flange.

I'm seriously thinking I might try this. I have nothing lose but more pocket change, and think of all the spacers and shims I won't need.

Of course, when last I checked, $600.00 will buy a new swingarm fabricated to your specs--in aluminum.
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