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Twins Technical Talk Technical Talk for Hinckley Triumph Twins: Bonneville, T100, Speedmaster, America, Thruxton, and Scrambler.

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Old 11-18-2012, 02:48 AM   #21 (permalink)
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I have over 8k on mine and it does it every so often. Real pain coming to a rolling stop, and then trying to take off.

I experienced a drop on the left side (stall on a hill dead stopped) once around 1k miles I'd say, but it only bent the shift lever on mine into the rod so I couldn't kick it down. Didn't hit the shift rod itself.

I have LSL rearsets though, so I'm chalking it up to not having the linkage adjusted out far enough to have enough throw and just generally being too lazy to fix it on my bike. I don't really remember it doing it with the stock one's much, maybe brandy new but seems to have happened mostly after the LSL's.


Interested to see what they find after digging around in there.
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Old 11-18-2012, 04:03 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danbuc View Post
I have over 8k on mine and it does it every so often. Real pain coming to a rolling stop, and then trying to take off.

I experienced a drop on the left side (stall on a hill dead stopped) once around 1k miles I'd say, but it only bent the shift lever on mine into the rod so I couldn't kick it down. Didn't hit the shift rod itself.

I have LSL rearsets though, so I'm chalking it up to not having the linkage adjusted out far enough to have enough throw and just generally being too lazy to fix it on my bike. I don't really remember it doing it with the stock one's much, maybe brandy new but seems to have happened mostly after the LSL's.


Interested to see what they find after digging around in there.
I have read that you can seriously damage the gear change components from dropping them....I think the shock along the shaft does damage sometimes.

You are probab;y right though, it is probably the linkages out of adjustment in your case. Mine was doing it straight out of the showroom.
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Old 11-18-2012, 08:49 AM   #23 (permalink)
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I've also got a brand new Thrux, and I'm not satisfied with the gearbox. It's not as bad as yours, by the sound of it, but it isn't as good as it should be. Mine also refuses to change gear on the first attempt intermittently. I was thinking it was worse when it was cold outside, but that could be wrong. Maybe its happening after longer rides, which I only take when it's cold outside. Not sure. Anyway, mine may refuse to shift either up or down. 3rd seems to be the gear it doesn't want to select, coming from 2nd. And going down it doesn't always want to go through 2nd or get into 1st (which, as you said, really sucks at a light when there's traffic behind you). Once or twice I've given it a good kick with the heel of my boot to slam it into 1st. I had my 500mi service done yesterday, and I mentioned it to the tech. He said they'd adjust the clutch and whatnot. Hopefully it gets better with the new oil and a few more miles. I rode a friend's old Honda the other day and his gearbox was rifle-bolt smooth and precise. Made me jealous, and my bike is brand new!

Anyway, I know that story isn't super helpful, but it is another data point. I'll stay tuned in to hear the results, HBC.
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Old 11-18-2012, 11:16 AM   #24 (permalink)
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There seems to be a patern here later bikes that are made abroad, I wonder if quality control is slipping. My 04 Truxtons OK my wife 08 Bonnie the box is clunky but OK...........
T.U.D.
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Old 11-18-2012, 01:02 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Once or twice I've given it a good kick with the heel of my boot to slam it into 1st.
That won't do the mechanism any favours.

The Bonneville gearbox is one of the best ones for positive neutral finding and gear changing in my experience. It's been so right from the beginning. The likely cause is faulty clutch adjustment, the clutch is not disengaging properly and causing drag.

Check the clutch cable slack adjustment as per manual, at least at the handlebar end, takes seconds, needs no tools or special skills. If found defective have a word with the dealer and mention "pre-delivery Inspection" and what else have they forgotten to do:

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Old 11-18-2012, 01:37 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Thanks for all the input guys, my dealer has adjusted my clutch after I had it recovered to them, and again yesterday.

The Dealership wondered if the clutch was not separating fully, causing a reluctance for the selector mechanism to operate as it should, due to 'dragging'. I have experienced this, with a clutch pulled in fully, the bike still creeps forward. My Thruxton did not do this.

In my case, (it may be different in yours Grimsby) the Mechanic has said it is unlikely to be the clutch. The Mechanic was caught out by it yesterday, refusing to go into neutral. The pedal was moving, but there was no connection between the mechanism and the selector drum on the selector linkage assembly side of things.

The return spring on the pedal is fine, and it returns to the 'neutral' position.

The mechanic has removed the selector linkage mechanism (or parts thereof, he wouldn't let me watch!!!), replaced a spring, and sanded off a small burr he found on one of the components. He said that there was another sprung loaded component that was suspect, and he would speak to Triumph Monday morning to see what they had to say.

He was limited by the amount of new spare parts he had available, and I had to leave it there as I had been at the Dealers for about 5 hours.

(Grimsby, does your pedal move up and down (but not change gear), or is it stiff and cannot be depressed when you pull the clutch in please? If it is the latter, I would go with Forchetto's diagnosis, that sounds likely if the pedal is stiff).

In my case, the problem is always worse when the bike is hot (after a good run). I wonder if this is related to expansion of one of the metal components of the selector mechanism.

The Bonneville I have borrowed (their demo bike) has the same type of gearbox I believe, and it is a very solid accurate gearbox, changeing without any fuss, it is just clunkier than what I am used to. But it performs very well.
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Old 11-19-2012, 07:59 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Hotboppincat View Post

(Grimsby, does your pedal move up and down (but not change gear), or is it stiff and cannot be depressed when you pull the clutch in please? If it is the latter, I would go with Forchetto's diagnosis, that sounds likely if the pedal is stiff).
I think the two of you are probably right. The pedal was pretty stiff, ie, not wanting to move at all. I mentioned this adjustment issue to the dealer on Saturday, and he said they'd take a look. It didn't feel any different on the ride home,though. I guess I'll look into it myself. Good luck with yours, HBC. It sounds like a more serious issue.
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Old 11-19-2012, 09:46 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Try adjusting the clutch as Forchetto recommends, it may help.
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Old 11-19-2012, 02:04 PM   #29 (permalink)
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If the clutch is dragging and causing faulty gear chages there is no adjustment you can make with the cable, unless you take out all the slack and some more as a get you home measure. Drag is usualy caused by wrong oil, buckled plates or uneven spring presure...The slack in the cable is there so that it doesnt load up the pushrod release mechanism and cause wear....The symptoms here are selection as you say something not right with the pawl selection hopefully its not the selector drum and selector forks if these are defective it will give the same problem..........
Hope they get it sorted...T.U.D.
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Old 11-19-2012, 11:47 PM   #30 (permalink)
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same bike...same year as well. I don't think anything is wrong. Mines done the same thing as well for over 7k miles now. I did have the shifter assembly come loose once...then it wouldn't shift at all. The gearbox has always been a little notchy.
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