Triumphrat

bluesman77 · 11-08-2012, 06:43 PM

WARNING!

I strongly recommend you purchase a factory oil filter wrench. When the engines are assembled, they install the oil filters w/ dry gaskets. As a result, they are nearly impossible to remove. Since they are virtually flush w/ the bottom of the engine, you need to use a cup style wrench. But, the sheet metal ones commonly found in auto parts stores deflect & spin on the filter's flats. If you can get a strap wrench to fit where you can turn it, the filter may be so stuck the housing collapses & then you're really in trouble.

You need the factory cast wrench only the 1st time unless you forget & install the new filter dry against a really clean (oil free) sealing surface, but well worth it to avoid trouble. I was lucky and mine came loose before the housing collapsed, but others have had terrible times.

I like the Bosch 3323 and 3300 oil filters. I use the 3323 on my Thruxton because it's about 3/4" longer than the 3300 so it sticks down giving more surface to grab w/ my strap wrench, hold a little more oil and sits in the air stream a little for cooling (last two reasons are splitting hairs).

Note: Bosch numbers in red corrected

Jim

Quote:

Originally Posted by winwahoo

Hello, folks...greetings from the Midwest! After getting my over $100.00 estimate for my 2011 Bonnie's first oil change, I've decided to try to do it myself. Any suggestions on type of oil/filter, and where to get them? Much appreciated...

Matthew

kartooo · 11-08-2012, 07:54 PM

I like the Bosch 3330 and 3300 oil filters. I use the 3330 on my Thruxton because it's about 3/4" longer than the 3300 so it sticks down giving more surface to grab w/ my strap wrench, hold a little more oil and sits in the air stream a little for cooling (last two reasons are splitting hairs).

Jim[/QUOTE]

the link listed earlier calls for the 3300 or longer 3323. did you misprint or is your 3330 correct ?

bluesman77 · 11-08-2012, 11:17 PM

Definitely a misprint - the 3330 will not fit - sorry for the miscue.

Quote:

Originally Posted by kartooo

I like the Bosch 3330 and 3300 oil filters. I use the 3330 on my Thruxton because it's about 3/4" longer than the 3300 so it sticks down giving more surface to grab w/ my strap wrench, hold a little more oil and sits in the air stream a little for cooling (last two reasons are splitting hairs).

Jim

the link listed earlier calls for the 3300 or longer 3323. did you misprint or is your 3330 correct ?[/QUOTE]

steve betts · 11-09-2012, 12:33 AM

I'm no mechanical whiz, but these bikes are dead easy to change oil on. If you have the space and tools, even if you buy a Triumph filter from your dealer and 4T Mobil 1 10-40 synthetic from, I hate to say, Walmart, you'll cut your oil change cost in half.

There's entire threads devoted to making you insane merely about what filter to use.

PAAS · 11-09-2012, 03:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by x_david_x

Also, you shouldn't use full synthetic oil. While some people report using it with no problems, there have been many reports of it causing clutch slippage and causing damage as a result. That was also confirmed by my mechanic. Best bet is to just use what triumph recommends.

(Somebody shoot me now, but I'll bite anyway as it's at least a week since this topic was last flogged to death.)

Well that will be FULLY (OR SEMI) synthetic then, as per the Triumph owner's manual if you care to read it. The recommended oil specs are clearly stated there. Just choose an oil from a reputable brand that meets those specs, particularly JASO MA, which covers use with wet clutches in motorcycle engines. A lot of people swear by a particular brand and type of oil, but unless they've run a load of identical motors on a bench for 100,000 miles or more using different brands of oil and measured any wear, it's all hearsay. The clutch slippage issue is caused by people using oil containing friction modifiers intended for use in vehicles with dry clutches (i.e. cars, etc...). It's nothing to do with the oil being fully synthetic. The OEM filters are not that expensive and are made by a reputable Japanese company in a USA factory, so I don't see much point in trying to save a few cents by using a filter that some say is great, but others say is rubbish.

Forchetto · 11-09-2012, 07:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PAAS

(Somebody shoot me now, but I'll bite anyway as it's at least a week since this topic was last flogged to death.)

Well that will be FULLY (OR SEMI) synthetic then, as per the Triumph owner's manual if you care to read it. The recommended oil specs are clearly stated there. Just choose an oil from a reputable brand that meets those specs, particularly JASO MA, which covers use with wet clutches in motorcycle engines. A lot of people swear by a particular brand and type of oil, but unless they've run a load of identical motors on a bench for 100,000 miles or more using different brands of oil and measured any wear, it's all hearsay. The clutch slippage issue is caused by people using oil containing friction modifiers intended for use in vehicles with dry clutches (i.e. cars, etc...). It's nothing to do with the oil being fully synthetic. The OEM filters are not that expensive and are made by a reputable Japanese company in a USA factory, so I don't see much point in trying to save a few cents by using a filter that some say is great, but others say is rubbish.

+1 I was going to say the same things...

cdubya · 11-09-2012, 08:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PAAS

(Somebody shoot me now, but I'll bite anyway as it's at least a week since this topic was last flogged to death.)

Well that will be FULLY (OR SEMI) synthetic then, as per the Triumph owner's manual if you care to read it. The recommended oil specs are clearly stated there. Just choose an oil from a reputable brand that meets those specs, particularly JASO MA, which covers use with wet clutches in motorcycle engines. A lot of people swear by a particular brand and type of oil, but unless they've run a load of identical motors on a bench for 100,000 miles or more using different brands of oil and measured any wear, it's all hearsay. The clutch slippage issue is caused by people using oil containing friction modifiers intended for use in vehicles with dry clutches (i.e. cars, etc...). It's nothing to do with the oil being fully synthetic. The OEM filters are not that expensive and are made by a reputable Japanese company in a USA factory, so I don't see much point in trying to save a few cents by using a filter that some say is great, but others say is rubbish.

+2. Thank you.

DUCKMAN · 11-09-2012, 05:31 PM

I have used the Bosch 3300 it does the job. From my experience an oil filter is nothing more then a catch can for disaster. I currently use the "Walmart" Driveworks filter for a Mazda Miata for less then $3.00. If paying more brand A or brand B lets you sleep better at night...go for it. Dont count on the "premium" filter to provide any more protection then cheap ones. Many of the "premium" filters are nothing more the label engineering.

I use Mobil1 20W50 Vtwin motorcycle oil. I am a slightly annoyed that the product is no longer JASO approved. The product is approved for wet clutches. My 2001 shifts better with the 20w50 over the 10w40. My oil changes usuall cost less then $45.00

TX1911fan · 11-09-2012, 05:42 PM

I've used K&N filters in all my vehicles for years and I'm not about to stop know. Having the nut on the bottom makes it so much easier to remove. I bought fully synthetic Amzoil at the Triumph dealership here in Austin. Was told that's what they use and that it was compatible with Triumph specs.

triplestrength · 11-09-2012, 05:50 PM

The OEM filter is so inexpensive why use anything else? No need to match part numbers just buy a screw on Triumph oil filter.
If it's good enough for the manufacturer why mess about.
I buy 10 at a time get a discount and they fit all triumphs that use a screw on filter. Why make it so complicated?

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