Triumphrat

Captain Bert · 11-05-2012, 04:28 AM

Check the battery voltage again but this time check the voltage of the battery with the ignition off, then with the ignition on and then with the ignition trying to crank over. If the battery is ok it will maintain your 12.4v approx for all 3 conditions. If it stays at 12.4v then the battery can be ruled out as being the problem! A diagnostic check along the supply line to each device using the above 3 conditions should track you to the device that is causing the problem.

Bron-Yr-Aur · 11-05-2012, 08:38 AM

That's good stuff, Forchetto. Thanks. I'm bookmarking this thread just in case, one day...

Of course, that's assuming my carb bike is the same. I'm sure the same basic concept is there, though.

biker222 · 11-05-2012, 08:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jcb986

I decided to try the jump, nothing. I also checked the current from the ignition switch at the harness. RY and RW had 12.4 volts, nothing on the wires. Turned key on those same wires showed no voltage, plus the other wires showed no voltage.

Tried your diagram got no volts or ohm readings. Where a good place to get one reasonable?

On a good switch that is disconnected and switched-on you will have 0 vdc and 0 ohms; so as others have mentioned suspect that you have ran down your battery.

Jcb986 · 11-05-2012, 03:32 PM

Had the battery tested at Advance Auto Parts. It read 8.36v and said charge required. I had a battery tender on it shortly until the charge light went out. Tonite it goes on a small trickle charger. Is their a threshold where the system does not allow anything to work. My 05 is a carburetor model. It seems that I would have lights, horn, something on.

Forchetto · 11-05-2012, 03:38 PM

That battery is kaput. A reading of 8.36 volts means that no amount of charging will save it. Probably has a damaged cell.

A charger might possibly get the volts up but as soon as a load is placed on it it'll drop to nothing.

biker222 · 11-05-2012, 04:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jcb986

Had the battery tested at Advance Auto Parts. It read 8.36v and said charge required. I had a battery tender on it shortly until the charge light went out. Tonite it goes on a small trickle charger. Is their a threshold where the system does not allow anything to work. My 05 is a carburetor model. It seems that I would have lights, horn, something on.

Is this the original battery, if it is time to change it out, if it were my bike I would be putting in a Shorai expensive but I think it is well worth the extra cost (just my 2 cents worth).

http://www.shoraipower.com/

Baltobonneville · 11-05-2012, 05:48 PM

Yuasa is much less expensive and well worth the cost.

Jcb986 · 11-05-2012, 06:25 PM

When I got the bike earlier this summer, the owner had put new tires and a battery in it. The battery is an EverStart by Walmart, which I would have never bought. So, it looks like I will be being a new battery. Will post if that was the problem.

Johnnystriple · 11-05-2012, 06:54 PM

I'll be going to get a new battery this week end. My original in my 09 striple wont hold a good charge more then 2 days. I guess I'll bit the bullet and get a shorai.

Jcb986 · 11-09-2012, 04:46 PM

Well, here goes. Battery had tested after charging to 13.2 volts, bought a light tester to check it. No light, checked my mowers system, no light. Bad tester, returned it and on the same day a new battery I ordered also showed up. New tester on mower battery, tester lights up, new battery, tester lights up, old battery shows no light but still shows 12.6 volts. This is the weirdest battery failure I have every seen. Also my mowers 12 volt battery tested 12.6 volts. Anyway I purchased a battery by Chrome for $38 delivered to my door. Has a 18 month warranty.