Triumphrat

agro

What about this concept..... ridiculously expensive @ $660....I wonder if they would sell any?





I would ditch the K&N's and use velocity stacks with Uniflow socks
http://www.uniflow.com.au/contents/en-us/d135.html


Cheers.....Agro

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"Whale Oil Beef Hooked"

Forchetto

The pros and cons of that intake were discussed a couple of days ago on this thread:

http://www.triumphrat.net/twins-tech...-for-this.html

sprouty115

Truthfully Forchetto, no one seemed to be able to get past the price and looks. Not that I am disagreeing, of course, but some data, if available, would have helped that thread.

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- Stephen

CafeT100

Moving the air temp sensor makes a lot of sense - does the cable reach or does it have to be spliced?

Forchetto

See post 73 on this same thread:

http://www.triumphrat.net/twins-tech...ml#post2410083

sbabyak

Hi Forchetto, in this image of your modified Breathe bellmouth with the IAT mounted through it, would you recommend that the IAT be angled into the airbox? It's difficult to discern in the photo.



Also, there appears to be a rubber grommet around the sensor, is that your own added touch or is that grommet used in the original location?

It looks very clean, like it was meant to be!


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'12 Thruxton, de-baffled, de-snorkeled, AI removed, O2 disabled, DNA filter, TTP Breathe, TTP tune #3, Dominator Sports, Maund FEK, Cibie Headlight

Forchetto

It's slightly angled towards the intake. I roughly marked the position to ensure that the cover backplate was not damaged (The cover is made in two pieces bonded together: the curved visible part and the flat rear plate).

Marked shape and drilled small holes all around the inside of the marked area, used a pair of cutters to nibble away the drilled portion and then filed away until the sensor was a tight fit and wouldn't need any sort of adhesive. That way it can be removed anytime.

Then I added an "O" ring I had to tidy the cut and filed edges. That was just slipped over and holds itself there.

Several things to consider before you do this:

1- I don't think Mike at TTP approves of this mod, not just on his cover but relocating the IAT generally.

2- I don't know of anyone else that has done it and reported back. Mind you, in the car world this is a very common mod.

3- In cold weather your fuel consumption drops a bit, a more marked drop than the normal one due to just the cold weather...a simple cure is to return the sensor back into its original position.

sbabyak

Thank you!

Are you still happy with the results in general?

I'm in Southern California and not terribly concerned about a drop in mileage due to cold weather.

My hesitation at this point is cutting into the cover itself and how the airflow might be disturbed having the body of the sensor there.

I would imagine it would still be an improvement over simply roving the snorkel. Not to mention the benefit of the sensor position in my mild climate.

I'll be sure to post my efforts if I make the mod and thanks again Forchetto!


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'12 Thruxton, de-baffled, de-snorkeled, AI removed, O2 disabled, DNA filter, TTP Breathe, TTP tune #3, Dominator Sports, Maund FEK, Cibie Headlight

Forchetto

Yes, it means that the bike feels just as good at the end of a trip as at the beginning. As the sensor "cooks" inside the airbox the fuel mixture is made weaker and the ignition advance is reduced to avoid detonation. This translates in reduced performance and driveability once the airbox (and sensor) is thoroughly heated up after 10-15 miles.

The only bit that sticks into the airstream is the probe tip, just a few mm of plastic and nothing to worry about.

CafeT100

LapinAgile- Thanks for that clarification - it is many years since I delved into the mysteries of exhaust systems. For race work this is very important as the power curves and torque curves have to be in exactly the right place and often modified from circuit to circuit. However for just getting a power improvement for a street bike, like everything else we are subject to the laws of diminishing returns for cost incurred. I would love to see test results between these high cost systems on a road bike against various cheaper slip-on alternatives using stock pipes with no Cats etc to impede the flow. Often simple works - on a Dodge 3500 with a 4" pipe as standard the intermediate muffler was cut out and replaced with straight pipe. Over the next 1000 mile MPG was an average of over 2mpg better - more than 10%. Seemed to pull trailers better too. Cost me $75. Compare a set of Arrows at over $1,000 against a pair of $150 slip-on Dunstall replicas - that would be good to see with all other things being equal.