Triumphrat

jesseoff

I have a 2012 Thruxton, about a month old now that every once in awhile only turns over a split second when pressing the start button. Pressing it again causes it to turn over another split second but still fail to start. If I press and hold the start button, it will turn over a split second and then after a very predictable amount of time (about 2 s) turn over and completely start.

I'd diagnose it as a glitchy sensor, button contacts, or relay if it weren't for the fact that pushing the button always causes it to turn over, if only for a split second. I'd diagnose it as a dying battery if it weren't for the fact the bike is a month old and ridden for 30 minutes at a time twice a day. So, I'm a bit confused and wondering if there is some sort of ECU involvement on the EFI models starting circuit? Perhaps a voltage brownout when initially engaging the starter?

ixer

My 2012 Mag Wheel does the same thing...when it does it i notice i didnt pull the clutch level COMPLETELY back.

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'12 Black Mag Wheel Bonneville

jesseoff

Well, I've been pulling the clutch completely in this last week and I thought it was fixed, but it just did it again. Held the start button a few more seconds and it started right up.

thebiglad

Are you using the cold start pull-out "choke" when trying to start the bike?

According to my hand book this pull-out control should be used every time you start the bike; Position one for warm starts and warm weather; position two for colder weather.

I get that split second thing occasionally on my 2010 T100 if I don't use the "choke", but never get it if I do use the choke.

Dave

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Bonny - '10 Bonneville T100 with saucy Dominator pipes, de-snorkel'd, de-AI'd, UNI air filter; De-O² sensors.

2004 Jaguar S-type V8 4.2

Captain Bert

Being a electrical technician, it sounds like a poor switch contact. Things to look for 1: check the bike stand switch - if its up position is not correct that switch will cut out the starting due to vibration from starting. 2: check the clutch switch adjustment. your really looking for poor switch contact or a loose wire where it connects to a switch. Also check the starter motor relay connections and the battery connection. Poor battery connection causes voltage drop when cranking which will drop out the starter relay. Test cranking volts - should be above 9volts when cranking.
Good luck.

Master

For what it's worth: I've been having this problem with one of my other bikes (not a Triumph) and it happened to be the battery that did not produce enough oumph.
I know your bike is new and all, but for how long has it been standing at the dealer's before you bought it? Maybe your battery is in a worse condition than you think...

fuzzyfrank

Same problem.Read my thread titled "wierd thing happining at start up".It will explain.Seems to be the clutch safety switch.When it happens just pull and release the clutch lever once or twice then hit the starter button again.Problem comes and goes.Nothing to worry about.

jesseoff

That thread was a good read, thanks. I just checked my battery connection and all is good there. I'm still a little skeptical of it being the clutch switch simply because it always turns over a split second AND turns over again precisely 3 seconds later if I keep my finger on the start button. That would make sense if the battery voltage took a dive from the initial surge current of the starter solenoid/motor enough to engage the ECU low voltage interlock mid crank. The battery then recovers voltage after a few seconds with the headlight off due to the start button being depressed and resumes cranking as the low voltage interlock releases.

Im betting it's combination of the low voltage interlock being too sensitive and this battery being slightly weak.

thebiglad

See post no. 4

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Bonny - '10 Bonneville T100 with saucy Dominator pipes, de-snorkel'd, de-AI'd, UNI air filter; De-O² sensors.

2004 Jaguar S-type V8 4.2

mike1161

I'm having the exact same thing on my 2012 T100 (has about 1700 miles). After reading the other thread on this, I first checked battery cable connections (they seemed tight, but tightened them a bit more). That didn't fix it, so I did the mod where you remove the clutch switch and cut off the plunger portion of it, so it effectively always leaves the clutch switch contacts closed. This way, you don't have to pull in the clutch to start. Well, it's still showing the same symptoms every now & then. I'm thinking that it's either marginal contact in the clutch safety switch contacts, or what you say about the ECU low voltage interlock. I may try soldering the wires at the clutch switch closed first, which would completely bypass the switch. More to come.....

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Current bikes: 1970 Suzuki T350, 2008 Triumph Daytona 675 SE
Old bikes: 1971 Honda CL350, 1982 Yamaha 550 Seca, 1986 Yamaha RD350, 1988 Suzuki RG500 Gamma, 1986 Suzuki VS700, 1975 Kawasaki Mach II (S3), 2012 Triumph Bonneville T100