Well even though this is an old thread I thought I would add my (recent) experience to it.
I used this thread as a basis to remove the baffle on my 2006 790cc Carb Bonnie, and I have to say it was really helpful. Well to start.....
I say that as in the end I decided to remove the rear wheel and remove the complete air box from the bike. I will explain later.
It is possible to remove the baffle without removing the air box as in the thread above, though very hard without removing the battery and lowering the box and moving it backwards..... BUT on a 6 year old bike that brown gunky glue that Triumph used to seal the air box side had stuck like S**t to the proverbial blanket
... it was really hard to remove and very difficult with the air box in place on the bike.
So I gave in, removed the rear wheel & mudguard, then removed the complete air box from the bike.
I also removed the left hand side cover and the carb rubbers (velocity stacks) and cleaned everything up, gave it all a good soak in hot water and washing up liquid and then scraped and picked off all the old glue. There are rubber seals in the gasket groove and I removed these and also soaked in hot water and dish wash liquid to soften the glue and remove it....
I spoke with the parts sales guy at my local Triumph dealer and he said he had come across this before, (apparently a guy with a scrambler had flooded the air box and needed to remove and strip it to clean it out) he had checked with the factory at that time and they had said they use any sealer they have to hand to seal the air boxes, he advised using the black silicon from Kawasaki (Kawaseal) or the one Yamaha do, they use the Kawasaki one at his dealership as Triumph don't stock one...
When all was clean and dry I re-assembled it all using automotive black silicon sealer on the gaskets and to seat the rubber carb connectors (velocity stacks)..
All round it took about 2 1/2 hours from getting the rear wheel out to getting it back in again and doing a test run (not including going out to fetch the silicon sealer) and I have to say I am much happier with the result
Also the other upsides with doing it this way were;
- It was easier to remove the float bowls and fit the new #120 jets
- I had easy access to the centre frame tube and rear of the gear box etc.. to give it a clean
- It was real easy to refit the air box screws and ensure they were all snug
Well I hope my experience helps someone else out... If I were to do this job again I would without doubt plan to remove the air box from the start...