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Twins Technical Talk Technical Talk for Hinckley Triumph Twins: Bonneville, T100, Speedmaster, America, Thruxton, and Scrambler.

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Old 02-15-2012, 11:47 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Airbox elimination

So I am not very experienced with mechanical stuff, but apt enough to figure stuff out and understand, I also have enough hand tools and motivation to be dangerous, so...

Can someone please explain the benefits of airbox elimination? Is there more than just allowing an easier flow of air into the combustion process? What about risk of water getting into the system on long tours without the airbox? How does this affect fuel efficiency/reliability for touring? Seems like airbox elimination is quite popular.

And how is this different from removing some special screw in the fuel line?? Is this specific to EFI motors?

Am I crazy, or would it make the most sense to cluster airbox elimination with new mufflers and carbeuretor tuning/balancing?

Thanks for explaining this, professors.......
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Old 02-15-2012, 01:47 PM   #2 (permalink)
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When you eliminate the airbox and use pod filters, you allow more air into the motor, making more hp, BUT you have to rejet the carbs to take advantage of the increase in air flow. In order to get the most out of it, you also need a free flowing exhaust system. TPUSA has the whole kit, using their Dominator Touring or Sport pipes. The Touring are a lot quieter than the Sports.

Now as for water problems, I've never had a problem. At first I used the outer covers, they robbed power, since I removed them the bike runs stronger. I've never sucked in any water.
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Old 02-15-2012, 02:01 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Using the SEARCH function at the top wielded these results...

http://www.triumphrat.net/club-cafe/...n-removal.html

http://www.triumphrat.net/twins-tech...-belmouth.html

http://www.triumphrat.net/for-sale-p...ation-kit.html

http://www.triumphrat.net/twins-tech...-worth-it.html

plus many, many more...

Hope that helps.
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Old 02-15-2012, 02:03 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Removed the airbox in 2004. It is under my work bench collecting dust.
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Old 02-15-2012, 04:36 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Since yours is a 790, you need to be sure whomever you purchase the removal kit from knows you are doing a 790...they also need to know what silencers you will be installing to get in the ballpark on jetting, if you don't purchase the silencers from them. If you keep stock silencers, it would be a waste of time to remove the air box on a 790, IMHO.

The 790 will take bigger main jets than the 865's with no air box and the same open style silencers, so keep in mind when reading what main jets were used to look for the size motor the poster is talking about. From what I have seen, most 865's run somewhere around 145 main jets, and most 790's run around 155 main jets with air box removal and open style silencers...all are a little different, so if you can afford it and have access to someone who does dyno tuning, it is a good idea to get it on the dyno for final tuning, IMHO. Many with 865's run 42 pilot jets, whereas most with 790's run the stock 40 pilot jets. When you have the jetting correct on a 790, it should feel like the front end is coming off the ground when you get around 5000 rpm in 1st or second gears. My MPG increased a little after doing this mod and having the bike tuned on a dyno.

"Am I crazy, or would it make the most sense to cluster air box elimination with new mufflers and carburetor tuning/balancing?"

You are NOT crazy, this is exactly the way to approach this modification, IMHO.
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2003 T-100 (790cc), NARK, NH Togas, 8100 rpm rev limiter, 158 main jets, 42 pilot jets (less than 1 turn out on pilot screws), stock needles--no shims. 13 A/F ratio from 1100 rpm to 4000 rpm; 12 A/F ratio from 4000 rpm to 6000 rpm; 13 A/F from 6000 rpm to 8100 rpm.:D
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Old 02-15-2012, 10:19 PM   #6 (permalink)
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+1. And if you haven't removed the AI, do so. Now would be a good time, it doesn't have to coincide with airbox/exhaust/rejet. Your bike will thank you.

P.S. Your bike has no special screws in the fuel line. I think that's an EFI thing.
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Last edited by Easy13; 02-15-2012 at 10:21 PM.
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Old 02-16-2012, 07:15 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Where/what are the "special screws" in the fuel line on EFi?
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Old 02-16-2012, 09:49 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Forgot to mention about riding in the rain...I have ridden all day long in pouring rain with no problems. The cone filters that come with most of the air box removal kits are protected a lot more than the old bikes of the 60's. I rode my ol' 66 BSA Hornet all day in the rain once and didn't have any water problems either, and the carb filters for it were a lot more exposed than the ones on my Bonnie.
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2003 T-100 (790cc), NARK, NH Togas, 8100 rpm rev limiter, 158 main jets, 42 pilot jets (less than 1 turn out on pilot screws), stock needles--no shims. 13 A/F ratio from 1100 rpm to 4000 rpm; 12 A/F ratio from 4000 rpm to 6000 rpm; 13 A/F from 6000 rpm to 8100 rpm.:D
2007 Tiger 1050--White:D--SW-Motech crashbars, Skidmarx rear hugger/chain guard, Calsci +7 windscreen.
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Old 12-04-2012, 04:14 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I just want a lllllllittle more confirmation no one's had water lock problems on exposed/water covered intake filters?

Thanks!
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Old 12-04-2012, 08:06 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Have a go

Quote:
Originally Posted by VTbonneville View Post
So I am not very experienced with mechanical stuff, but apt enough to figure stuff out and understand, I also have enough hand tools and motivation to be dangerous, so...

Can someone please explain the benefits of airbox elimination? Is there more than just allowing an easier flow of air into the combustion process? What about risk of water getting into the system on long tours without the airbox? How does this affect fuel efficiency/reliability for touring? Seems like airbox elimination is quite popular.

And how is this different from removing some special screw in the fuel line?? Is this specific to EFI motors?

Am I crazy, or would it make the most sense to cluster airbox elimination with new mufflers and carbeuretor tuning/balancing?

Thanks for explaining this, professors.......
The benefits of airbox illimination are that you can run les restrictive filters therefore you can get increased performance.
Most of the pods are treated with oils that stop water ingress as well as dust. I run unis with my side covers on, water is never an issue and i am not super careful with the hose.
When set up well there are no down sides. Reliability is not compromised, fuel consumption need not alter!!!(your right wrist will dictate that).
Well and this is debatable there will be increased noise both intake and exhasut as you need freer flowing exhaust to get the full benefit. This i call a plus!
Like anything it makes sense to do all at once as there will be only 1 set up but obviously $ can dictate.

Things to plan for to save dollars have a plan as to where you are going to go with your mods as duplcation is waste ful.

If you buy pods for your CVK carbs and then change to FCR you will need bigger pods.

Are you going to do your own ARK(airbox removal). You can buy kits but they offer no advantage over a diy. They cost and none that i know of offer as good a mudguard as a OEM cut down.

If you are game have a few tools the airbox mod is simple. The $250 you save can go towards a set of fcr, pipes etc.
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