Triumphrat

thebiglad · 05-03-2012, 09:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by richm

Thanks - as long as it's reversible without a trip to the dealer, I don't mind experimenting.

So, with TuneECU I could disable the AI I can disable the AI without changing anything else? This would be better than using a resistor but is this a simple operation?

I think I read on another thread that it will also enable me to save a copy of my current map/tune (sorry, not sure of the correct term), is this correct?

I will likely go for a TTP map when I do the filters, but for now, I'd like to just ditch the AI junk.

Hi Richm, I'm going to be doing exactly the same as you, ie just ditching the AI in the first place.

My understanding is this: once the bike is connected the the TuneECU program on your laptop, you download your current map onto the laptop and save it somewhere safe, such as the Desktop, you then unclick the AI button on the TuneECU program, then reinstall your re-install your existing map.

Then do the 20mine tickover adaption process, then you're done !

Dave

sbabyak · 12-06-2012, 01:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Forchetto

The solenoid uses 0.63 amps at a nominal 12 volts (about 8watts).

A dummy resistor like the previously recommended 47 Ohms would draw 0.25 amps and dissipate about 3 watts.

A 10 Ohm on the other hand would draw 1.2 amps and therefore dissipate a hefty 15 watts.

It could overload overload the circuitry in the ECU and would require a very large resistor to disipate those 15 watts as heat.

The best way is to do it using TuneECU software and then no resistor is required.

Mind you, since that original thread we've found that a resistance as high as 470 Ohms is enough to keep the MIL light off. This much higher value means that you can use a tiny low power resistor of around 1 watt, like this:

470 Ohms just draws 0.025 amps, that's only 0.3 watts. The reason why I specify a 1 watt resistor is simply because it will work cooler and also the 1 watt resistors are a little bit larger and sturdier than smaller ones, strictly speaking a 1/2 watt one would do.

Hi folks, until I have the cash to do a proper job and buy the cable and tune from Pie Man, I'd like to go with the resistor.

I like the idea of the cooler operating 1W 470Ω resistor and after looking online, I've come across many options.

I am not familiar with the tech specs of resistors and would like to know the differences/advantages/disadvantages of a 1W 470Ω resistor with a 1%, 2% or 5% tolerance... what would be most appropriate for this application?

EDIT: Suppose I should have started with a quick search on the interweb... I answered my own question and I feel kinda silly now. If any one else is curious, it refers to the variance in the resistors rating. In this case, a 470Ω 5% resistor could range from 447-494Ω.

Forchetto · 12-06-2012, 03:19 PM

A 2% tolerance resistor should do. It's not that critical and resistors nowadays have very consistent, accurate values.

sbabyak · 12-06-2012, 04:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Forchetto

A 2% tolerance resistor should do. It's not that critical and resistors nowadays have very consistent, accurate values.

Great, thanks Forchetto. I found a local shop that has everything you could imagine on stock and at a great price. Looking forward to cleaning up the bike and pulling all the AIS out!

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PeteV · 12-06-2012, 05:43 PM

A fascinating thread. I sense project coming up (for me).

richm · 12-07-2012, 09:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbabyak

Hi folks, until I have the cash to do a proper job and buy the cable and tune from Pie Man, I'd like to go with the resistor.

I like the idea of the cooler operating 1W 470Ω resistor and after looking online, I've come across many options.

I am not familiar with the tech specs of resistors and would like to know the differences/advantages/disadvantages of a 1W 470Ω resistor with a 1%, 2% or 5% tolerance... what would be most appropriate for this application?

EDIT: Suppose I should have started with a quick search on the interweb... I answered my own question and I feel kinda silly now. If any one else is curious, it refers to the variance in the resistors rating. In this case, a 470Ω 5% resistor could range from 447-494Ω.

I ran with a resistor for a while. I could not find a 470 Ohm locally so bought a pack of 100 Ohm and 330 Ohm resistors for about $4 and strung a 100 Ohm and 300 Ohm together. These were 1W resistors and were small enough to be taped neatly to the plug.

sbabyak · 12-07-2012, 01:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by richm

I ran with a resistor for a while. I could not find a 470 Ohm locally so bought a pack of 100 Ohm and 330 Ohm resistors for about $4 and strung a 100 Ohm and 300 Ohm together. These were 1W resistors and were small enough to be taped neatly to the plug.

Good to know, no issues running the resistor?

sbabyak · 12-27-2012, 10:35 PM

I pulled the hardware today and used a 470 ohm, 1w resistor.

While I was removing all the bits, I had the battery disconnected. I used bulb grease on the plug and inserted the ends of the resistor, taped it up and once I had the tank back on, reconnected the battery and got the MIL light.

DOH!

The ends of the resistor went in until they bottomed-out, the ignition was not on until after the process was complete... any ideas?

Forchetto · 12-27-2012, 11:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbabyak

I pulled the hardware today and used a 470 ohm, 1w resistor.

While I was removing all the bits, I had the battery disconnected. I used bulb grease on the plug and inserted the ends of the resistor, taped it up and once I had the tank back on, reconnected the battery and got the MIL light.

DOH!

The ends of the resistor went in until they bottomed-out, the ignition was not on until after the process was complete... any ideas?

Did you shape the ends of the resistor by doubling them to ensure it filled the connector contacts properly and makes a good secure connection?, a bit like in the illustration below.

It's probably a bad connection. If so and you make a better one, you can wait for 3 engine heat cycles and the MIL light will go off by itself. This is assuming you don't have access to a OBDII code reader/scanner or TuneECU software to be able to turn the light off.

Note the way the resistor leads are bent double as they go into the plug contacts, also, I'd rather not use any grease, normally the mating parts of a plug and socket scrape away a layer of dielectric grease on engagement, but plugging in a resistor is not what the plug was designed for, and what also maybe happening is that the grease is having an insulating effect on the connection, don't forget that dielectric grease is an insulator. Taping the whole thing securely will be enough to seal the connector from the atmosphere, no grease needed:

sbabyak · 12-27-2012, 11:37 PM

Thanks Forchetto!

Yes, I did double over the ends as in the image. After I saw the MIL light, I had second thoughts about the grease for the same reasons you noted, but it was too late.

I pulled the tank again and started over with a new resistor. I'll keep an eye on it to see if it turns off after three cycles.

If not, I'll do my best to clear the grease and hope that the third time is the charm. Would you suggest disconnecting the battery, or is it unnecessary?

I do not yet have an OBD cable. I'm waiting to save some money to order the cable, a DNA filter and Breathe...

Aside from the annoyance of seeing the MIL light, am I causing any damage?

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