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Twins Technical Talk Technical Talk for Hinckley Triumph Twins: Bonneville, T100, Speedmaster, America, Thruxton, and Scrambler.

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Old 09-29-2011, 06:40 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Replacing the Bonnie Rectifier/Regulator

I sought the wise advice of this forum for trouble shooting my charging system. I ended up replacing the Triumph SCR rectifier/regulator with a much better Shindengen Mosfet FH012AA unit obtained from http://roadstercycle.com/ for about 1/3 the price of the inferior Triumph part. The Shindengen regulator runs quite cool and is barely warm to the touch while powering the high beam headlight and two PIAA driving lights.




I received excellent trouble shooting advice in this thread:

http://www.triumphrat.net/twins-tech...m-problem.html

In addition, roadstercycle's website has additional information. One of his best tips is to use a 110 volt light bulb of about 100 watts (I used 60 watts) to test each of the three legs of the stator. At about 4000 rpm, the bulb should glow with partial brightness. It is not fully bright because the ac output of the stator is about 60 volts, not 110 or 120volts. This in addition to a running voltage test shows that the stator can hold a load.

You can test the stator by removing the headlight and unplugging the triumph rectifier from its cable in the headlight shell. The three contacts on one side of the connector attached to the main harness, not the regulator are the three output lines from the stator. Test across each pair of the three (three tests) for both voltage and load with the light bulb. You should have low voltage at idle and about 60 volts AC at 4000 to 5000 rpm. With the bike turned off, check each of those pins to ground with an ohmmeter. It should be several megohms if the stator is not shorted to ground. Finally check with an ohmmeter between each of the three pairs (with the engine off). Mine were about 0.6 ohms each and they should all be about the same.

Some people have installed the rectifier in the vicinity of the airbox, but I don't have a good location there, so I installed it at the original location.

However, the mounting bolts are at a different spacing, so I made a mounting plate out of 1/4 inch aluminum. You need the thick aluminum so that you can counter sink the mounting holes for the plate and use countersunk 6mm flathead machine screws so that the new regulator can mount on the plate over the plate's mounting bolts. The new regulator will be mounted with the line of its mounting screws vertical while the original was mounted with its holes horizontal. You can mount the new one with bolts and nylock stop nuts. You need to mount the regulator all the way over to the left side to leave room to slide the electrical connectors on and off.

I cut the wiring harness off of the old triumph regulator to use it for the three stator wires, using the bikes existing wiring harness. Instead of using the bikes original too small positive and negative charging wires in the harness, I ran the new #10 wires supplied by roadstercycle.com and wired them directly to the battery with the supplied auto-reset circuit breaker in the positive wire very near the battery. I also pulled 10 inch or so sections of clear plastic tube over the positive wire to make sure it doesn't chafe to ground. The normal length of the charging wires supplied with the kit is 3 feet. I asked for 4 feet and it was barely enough. Ask for 4.5 or 5 feet to be safe. I used every inch of the positive wire and only cut a couple of inches from the negative wire. Jack Fleming at roadstercycle.com is a great guy to deal with. He answered my questions on Sunday, shipped first thing Monday morning and I had the very complete kit on Wednesday morning.

Here is Jack's video showing in detail how to install the wires in the connectors.
http://www.youtube.com/user/Roadstercycle

I cut the unused positive and negative charging wires off close to the connector, but long enough that they can be used later for other purposes.

The new system works very well and is showing over 14 volts when running above idle. There is a lot of good information on roadstercycle.com.
Attached Thumbnails
Replacing the Bonnie Rectifier/Regulator-fh012aa.jpg   Replacing the Bonnie Rectifier/Regulator-new_kit_cb_irf.jpg  
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Last edited by geolpilot; 09-29-2011 at 07:01 PM.
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Old 09-30-2011, 11:27 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Outstanding! Posts like this make me want to give it a shot and replace mine. Thanks for the effort...
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Old 09-30-2011, 11:33 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I used the original mounting position and screws. I just had to dremel a small channel on the outside of the R/R for the second screw. It holds tight and no wires are showing. I had posted a picture, a while back.

http://www.triumphrat.net/memberalbu...hp/photo/13605
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Old 09-30-2011, 04:51 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Since a new plate is needed anyway, is there room to fit it with the plugs pointed up and behind the headlight shell?
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Old 09-30-2011, 05:15 PM   #5 (permalink)
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yeah - I tried mounting my OEM R/R behind the headlight shell, but chickened out and put it back in it's original spot because I felt that the heat generated from reduced airflow would damage it - but, if this one runs that much cooler, it might be worth looking into again...

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Old 09-30-2011, 05:37 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Looks like it might bind the control cables in that location. As to cooler, I can barely feel any warmth from the shindengen R/R even with the lights on as well as the PIAA driving lights.
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Old 09-30-2011, 06:30 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Hi,
Surely the more current you are drawing, (extra lights etc) will mean Reg/rec will run cooler anyway, the heat is generated by "dumping" the extra current/voltage.
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Old 09-30-2011, 08:25 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Nice write up. I have linked this thread in the stickies so peeps can find it easily.

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Old 10-01-2011, 01:04 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dayve View Post
Hi,
Surely the more current you are drawing, (extra lights etc) will mean Reg/rec will run cooler anyway, the heat is generated by "dumping" the extra current/voltage.
These regulators don't work like that. The excess current is made to flow back around the stator windings. You must be thinking of the old Triumph type Lucas regulator which was just a Zener diode and worked by dissipating unused current in its heatsink.
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Old 10-02-2011, 12:02 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Forchetto View Post
These regulators don't work like that. The excess current is made to flow back around the stator windings. ...
The more current consumed by the load (the bike), the less current has to be shunted by the R/R. Therefor the R/R will run cooler when the bike's load is higher.
I.e. turn off the lights and the R/R will run hotter (and vice-versa)

The current in the stator is the same net regardless.
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