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need some help with dead thruxton

3K views 19 replies 7 participants last post by  RacerX113 
#1 ·
I recently put a shark exhaust on my 05 thruxton and rejetted. Went for a test ride and the bike ran great. I took the bike out today, the bike died and then went dead(no power). After about 10 minutes the power came back on and the bike started. Before I could get it home the left exhaust started popping and it died again, only this time the power did not come back after time. I haven't had the chance to check the batery voltage but I don't think that is it. :(
Anyone have any suggestions.?:confused:
 
#6 · (Edited)
I assume that when you say "no power" you mean electrical power?.

Take a look at this thread where I make some suggestions on the exact same problem, also on a Thruxton, but of course I've had no replies from the OP as is sadly all too common.

I don't know wether the suggestions helped and cleared his problem or he's been abducted by aliens...

http://www.triumphrat.net/maintenan...-help-please-weird-problem-with-thruxton.html
 
#11 ·
Forchetto,
You are correct, the bike has good voltage, but is completely dark (no electrical power). When I turn the key, nothing on my instrument cluster, headlight, etc lights up. So the next step as you suggested is to check the fuses. (Haven’t had a chance yet), but from your description it sounds like the main fuse is blown. If it is the main fuse, what would make it blow? Right before it went lights out, it was running very rough and popping from the left exhaust like it was in a very rich state or not getting good spark.

Not sure how to load test the battery with out being able to put a load on it, other than taking it to an auto parts store and having them load test it.
Thanks for the help all,
Doug
 
#14 ·
So the next step as you suggested is to check the fuses. (Haven’t had a chance yet), but from your description it sounds like the main fuse is blown. If it is the main fuse, what would make it blow? Right before it went lights out, it was running very rough and popping from the left exhaust like it was in a very rich state or not getting good spark.

Not sure how to load test the battery with out being able to put a load on it, other than taking it to an auto parts store and having them load test it.
Thanks for the help all,
Doug
A fuse can either blow or break. You'll be able to see through the transparent moulding if it has blown due to an overload, possibly a shorcircuit somewhere in the electrics. the metallic bits will look "fused" or melted.

Sometimes they fail for mechanical reasons, metal fatigue due to vibration, age, etc and then you'll just see a clean break in the conductor.

We have had a couple of instances where the fuse has just popped out of its socket and only needed plugging back in. In another case the moulding was breaking up by splitting in two, so you could be lucky. Check it soon, it won't take more than a couple of minutes.

Any self-respecting garage will have a battery load tester. Even if it's a rough old type consisting of a large resistance and ammeter like this




or a nice electronic one like this one:

 
#15 ·
I'd say, given your indication that you have absolutely nothing, that it's either the main fuse or your ignition switch is out of commision. More than one rider has fiddled around for days before checking the ignition switch. If you don't have a service manual it's going to be tough trying to figure out whats wrong if you get into the wiring. In fact, I was just going through my Speedmaser manual and found an error on their schematic that I'm going to let them know about. Good luck, check fuse first, then go from there to figure out where your juice is getting lost.
 
#16 · (Edited)
This diagram of the Thruxton ignition switch contact arrangement shows you what wires have to have continuity (or not) when the different switch positions are selected. The footnote shows you the colours that need to have continuity when the key is turned to ON.

Remove headlamp and find the ignition switch connector. Unplug it and using some sort of continuity checker or ohmmeter check the connections.

Note that wire colours change from the connector coming from the switch and the ones coming from the main loom. More British electrics magic...:) The footnote on the diagram refers to wires coming from the switch.

 
#17 ·
I checked the fuse and got lucky. The main 30amp fuse wasn't blown just loose. Pushed it in and it started right up.
The only problem now is it is still running rough. I'm still getting popping on the left header. The only things I changed when I install the exhaust is 125 main jets and an after market high flow air filter. I guess it's time to check the plugs. Any thoughts?

Thanks again for all the help.
Doug
 
#20 ·
I think I found the problem. The nipple cover on the left intake was off. Although I'm not sure if I knocked it off or if a back fire blew it off(don't know if that is even possible).
I thought the 125 mains would be a little big also, but thats what the Sharks came with. The right plug did look a liitle rich, so I may try 120 mains.
Thanks for everyones help.
 
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