Triumphrat

Wooly · 07-18-2005

Excellent post, I almost felt sorry for that poor muffler when I saw it throwing up all that stuff.

Phil.

bosoxrider · 07-18-2005

Thanks for the awesome post. These are the images that a lot of us were looking for and the clear instructions will truly be a benefit.

~BSR

SpeedyPete · 07-18-2005

O post of my dreams! I've been waiting for this one for weeks! Words cannot describe.

Pics, sound files, step by step instructions with work-around for the flange breaking. Its all good.

Can I also ask the question about the sound difference while riding - does the growl now drown out the knitting needles?

P

Roadglide · 07-18-2005

Great post!

tylerd · 07-18-2005

Why is their a hamster in our exhausts?

CarlS · 07-18-2005

kdlutes,

Excellent post; very well done! Did you try to drill through the remaining baffles? You should put this in the Downloads section of the forum. Thanks for a great contribution to the forum.

EL84,

The stock Bonnie out of the crate is set up by the factory to run lean; this is done to meet EPA emission standards. Some folks have rejetted to 112 mains without doing any muffler modifications. Remember, the leaner an engine runs, the hotter (temperature wise) it runs.

To answer your question, no, you would not have to rejet after this mod. Removing the rear baffle does not greatly increase the exhaust flow. Personally, I would rejet to 112's without doing any muffler mods. I am at sea level. That's just my opinion.

If you were to drill out the remaining baffles, you should rejet to, at least, 115's (115's are the size of the jets that come with TORs). I found 118s to be ideal in this scenario as verified by a dyno run exhaust analysis.

thumper723 · 07-18-2005

Same mod as Carl and this post, I run 118's with stock needles, no shims, and about 3 turns on the mixture screws..

Runs clean, exhaust analysis is good, and plugs are good.

EL84 · 07-18-2005

Thanks Carl and Thumper for the jetting info and giving a newbie a break.

CarlS · 07-18-2005

EL84,

You are certainly welcome.

If you are considering rejetting, purchase a carb screw replacement kit. The stock screws are soft aluminum and you will mess up the head on at least one when removing them. The replacement screws are stainless steel allen heads screws. Rejetting is easy and once you have the replacement screws installed, you can rejet in 10 - 15 minutes.

BillT100 · 07-18-2005

Well done KD, and thanks for posting those pics. Very helpful for anyone interested in performing the "surgery".

Bill