Triumphrat

bonesboyB

I started to install the 1" lower Progressive spring kit on my 07 t100
They progressive instructions say i have to remove the damper rod to ADD qty-1 small progressive spring to the damper rod (and keeping the stock damper spring as well)

I cannot for the life of me take out the Damper rod screw on the bottom of the fork (they must have used lock tite devils grip!) plus i just have the L shaped 8MM hand tool with not the best leverage

but when i search these forums, it seems every one is just changing the main spring and spacer, no talk at all about adding one of these springs to the damper rod.

do i need to add that damper spring for the t-100 ?

Forchetto

Can't help with the spring, but damper rod removal problems are discussed on this thread:

http://www.triumphrat.net/twins-tech...amper-rod.html

plodalong

The spring below the damper rod is because its a lowering kit, and yes you need to fit it to get the forks to perform properly and limit the overall wheel travel. Otherwise the mudguard or wheel might hit the frame or other parts when at full compression. Suzuki had a similar setup option on the dr650 where you could fit a spacer either above or below the damper rod to adjust the ride height. Like others I found a rattle gun with a reasonably long 8mm allen bit did the job of removing the damper rod bolt, and do it before you take the caps off the forks to add a bit of resistance to the damper rod turning. If you dont have a compressor rattle gun ect might be easier to take the forks to a shop to get them to remove the bolt.
Good luck.

RoyH

I just installed the lowering kit on an America two weekends ago, and yes you MUST get that damper bolt out to place additional 'top-out' springs on the damper rod.

I had researched this extensively before starting the job and had everything ready, including an air impact wrench, to try all the tricks mentioned around the internet to get the damper bolt out. After about 2 hours of trying every trick mentioned and being unsucessful getting the bolt to break loose I took the forks to the dealer.

It also took them over 2 hours to get the bolt free! They were just about ready to drill out the bolts before finally suceeding. What they finally did was put the forks back together, made up some sort of jig to compress and hold the forks and then an impact wrench was able to break the bolt free with the tension of the spring holding the damper rod.

Many have had success using an impact wrench on forks with the spring removed but that didn't work for me or my dealer.

Good Luck but that bolt has to come out.

bonesboyB

Thanks for all your help guys!

i DID manage to get the bolts off without air tools....

i first went to my local hardware store and they had a Metric allen key set (the kind with a bunch of sizes that fold out like a swiss army knife)
but this one was BIG (a good beefy 5" long handle to grab on too)
you may also be able to get away with the sears T handle set with this trick...

i then re -nstalled the forks on the bike. then re-mounted the mud guard (still left the wheel off)
The mudguard keeps the forks from spinning while you are turning the allen wrench

then i turned the wheel and LOCKED the steeing collum to limit the fork movment

after a little bit of elbow grease the bolts cracked and started to turn freely

then i removed the fork and stuck a rake handle down the fork to hold the damper rod in place
then the rest of the bolt turned freely without spinning the damper rod and i removed it.

-Phew-

in a nutshell.. it was much easier to "crack" the bolt when the forks were still installed on the bike