Triumphrat

Mufasa · 02-13-2010, 12:28 AM

So, like many here I am customising my Thruxton.
It's a long term project (never enough $$) and I'm always in
search of new idea's.

I have a few obscure questions though, so here go's.

The front suspension is a bit "squishy" under brakes, do "intimators" sort this out? Or do I need to go further, I'd ask about progressive springs etc but I dont know the difference between stock springs and progressive as I thought that all shock springs would have a "progressive" response.

Next question is very much personal opinion but I'll throw it
out there anyway.
I like the look of Mat black on engine cases etc, but I also
like the chrome/polished look.
I plan on mixing a bit of both, but when is it too much of either.
I'm wondering if the mat black and chrome combo will work.
A lot of variables with it I know.

And lastly, when a FEK is installed a lot of bikes have moved their indicators (turn signals) to the rear shock mount, has anyone
noticed if it gets in the way of the pillions legs?

cheers in advance
Peter

Ifby2 · 02-13-2010, 12:55 AM

I can only address the second question. I had a good bit of matte black/chrome bits on my last Harley and it really looked good. One thing I struggle with on my Thrux is the mix mash of black/polished/brushed look. Seems like too many textures going on there. I'm going for a black and polished look so I'll either buy chrome bits or polish out my brushed covers. To me it depends on the color of your bike as to how much black you should go for. Mine is red so I plan to limit the black bits as it becomes too drab to me. Seems like the brighter stuff looks better with red. I have really been back and forth in my mind as to which direction to go so I'll be watching the thread to see what others post.

Here's a pic of my HD before I sold it.

fat frank · 02-13-2010, 06:24 AM

I prefer the Chrome, but that's just me. to each his own.
The Thruxtons look good with the Ohlins piggyback shocks also.
As far as the turn signals, the stock ones can be made to look a lot better by bobbing off and inch and a quarter from them, narrowing them up. I did that on my bike for free and it really looks better.
Good luck

beemerrich · 02-13-2010, 12:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ifby2

I'm going for a black and polished look so I'll either buy chrome bits or polish out my brushed covers. To me it depends on the color of your bike as to how much black you should go for. Mine is red so I plan to limit the black bits as it becomes too drab to me. Seems like the brighter stuff looks better with red.

I agree. My '04 Thrux is the sunset red color (colour) and am sticking with polished alloy for the brightwork. The silver motor cases on the first generation thrux's don't help this either. Things I want to disappear are going to be black to blend in with the frame/upper end. Now that the rear fender has been binned, I've got to get that bloody silver front fender painted to match the tank...

BTW, nice looking FX...I used to have an '81 FXB ('sturgis') back in the day and still like to look at 'em.

Cheers,

--Rich

beemerrich · 02-13-2010, 12:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mufasa

The front suspension is a bit "squishy" under brakes, do "intimators" sort this out? Or do I need to go further, I'd ask about progressive springs etc but I dont know the difference between stock springs and progressive as I thought that all shock springs would have a "progressive" response.

And lastly, when a FEK is installed a lot of bikes have moved their indicators (turn signals) to the rear shock mount, has anyone
noticed if it gets in the way of the pillions legs?

Peter,

You might want to search the forum for a definitive answer to the cartridge emulator question. The short answer is 'yes' and they actually work better with straight rate springs. IMHO, if your mass is on the lighter side you probably could give the stock springs a go...but if you're tipping the scales over 180 or so, then you will almost certainly need a higher rate spring.

For the FEK, check out some of the aftermarket vendors. One or more (New Bonneville does anyway) offers signal brackets that mount the signals aft of the shock bolts using the mounting points under the seat/at the rear of the subframe next to the aft rear fender fasteners. With my lucas tailight, I mounted them off the upper license plate fasteners using some angle pieces I made from alloy. Now that the rear fender is gone, I'm probably going to move this forward using the brackets mentioned above.

Best regards,

--Rich

Ifby2 · 02-13-2010, 12:24 PM

On the FEK, I'm waiting (hence the big disadvantage) for my MAS FEK to come in. I ordered it early January and I won't be in until some time this month. Also with the MAS FEK, you need to source your own lucas or whatever tail light you want to use. British Customs was kind enough to sell me just the Lucas light. It looks to have tabs on there that mount the lights closer to the rear of the bike. The obvious advantage is that the further back the turns are, the more off center someone can be behind you and still see your turns.

Grubscrew · 02-14-2010, 05:40 PM

I'll share my findings on the front suspension, I have a 2009 Thruxton that I've tweaked the front suspension on. Coming mainly from sports bikes myself, I was surprised to find that people on this site regard spring options only as 'progressive' or not, very little is ever mentioned of the spring rate itself.

You are 100% correct on the erroneous terminology regarding fork springs, all springs are progressive. What we call 'progressive' springs should correctly be called 'dual-rate'.

Dual-rate springs have a certain spring rate while all the coils are 'working', then at the point where the closely spaced (softer) coils get completely compressed and stack on top of each other, they are effectively 'removed' and the spring becomes stiffer. Hence dual-rate. There is actually nothing 'progressive' about the transition, it changes from one rate to the other in less than 1cm of suspension travel.

Whether or not you choose single- or dual-rate springs is of far lesser importance than the spring rate itself. Spring rate is everything. Here is a link to a fork spring rate calculator that I find works very well:

http://www.sonicsprings.com/catalog/...pring_rate.php

I have found that the Thruxton requires fork springs that are slightly softer than what you would use on a sports bike of similar weight and riding intent. This is most likely due to the weight distribution of the Thruxton being more rear biased than the average sport bike, so keep that in mind. The 'standard/sports touring' setting on the calculator is just about spot on, based on my experience.

Better damping via Intiminators or emulators are pretty much a must in my book too. But realise that the amount of outright 'dive' that forks experience under steady braking can only be changed by changing the front spring rate. Damping only changes how fast the forks compress with the initial application of brakes, not how much.

Mufasa · 02-15-2010, 01:46 AM

Thanks for the answers guys on all the questions, much appreciated.
Has given me some insight into where to go with each question

cheers
Peter