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Twins Technical Talk Technical Talk for Hinckley Triumph Twins: Bonneville, T100, Speedmaster, America, Thruxton, and Scrambler.

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Old 11-21-2009, 01:47 AM   #1 (permalink)
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T100 jetting question

I bought an 03 T100 last month and have about 1000 mi on it so far. I just came across a receipt in the owners manual for a Unifilter and a jetting kit [42/125/4], as well as the AI bolts. The bike has NH Togas. If I were going by the Jenks guide this seems right on the money(except for the 4 turns out). But if I use Ventura's guide it seems like I should be at 40/120/1 shim & 1 turn.
I know this has been discussed at length and I apologize if this is a stupid question but I have read these threads til I'm dizzy and feel like I must be missing something obvious. So which jetting should I go with or do I really need to invest in having it dynoed?
Bike seems to pull very strong up top, not as strong as I would expect in mid-range and takes at least 5 full minutes on full choke before idling on its own.
Any suggestions welcome. Thanks
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Old 11-21-2009, 01:54 AM   #2 (permalink)
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shouldnt be 4 turns out on the mixture screws. try 42's with 2-2 1/2 turns out.
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Old 11-21-2009, 02:36 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Have you checked that your airbox is still fully intact?
Is the restrictor plate (magic iris!! ) still in there?
This will have great bearing on the matter, and if its still in there then your " [42/125/4]" settings could be somewhat rich.

Those settings of mine which you quote are exactly how I had to set my bike, when I tried those particular mods, in order to maintain as close to 13:1 A/F as possible.
(all at sea level).

Its up to you if you choose to use them as a guide when applying them to your particular set up, but in my case they were as near to spot-on as I could get it, using an A/F sniffer as my guide, and all taken during general riding conditions.



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Last edited by Ventura; 11-21-2009 at 05:26 AM.
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Old 11-21-2009, 04:40 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hs3000 View Post
I bought an 03 T100 last month and have about 1000 mi on it so far. I just came across a receipt in the owners manual for a Unifilter and a jetting kit [42/125/4], as well as the AI bolts. The bike has NH Togas. If I were going by the Jenks guide this seems right on the money(except for the 4 turns out). But if I use Ventura's guide it seems like I should be at 40/120/1 shim & 1 turn.
Perhaps 42/125/4

= 4 shims? 2 under each needle?

Ian.
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Old 11-21-2009, 07:08 AM   #5 (permalink)
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sbpark- I assume (yeah, bad idea) that the 4 means 4 turns out on the mixture screws. I haven't tried setting them yet, Maybe have time to check them today.

Ventura- I forgot to add that the snorkel has been removed, restrictor plate is still intact. I realize that your settings may not be perfect for my bike, but considering how much work and testing you have done I figured it would get me very close. Do you know what differences would result in the separate setups that you and Jenks came up with?

Ian- I had not thought of that. Thankfully the po replaced the carb screws with allen heads so it should be an easy job to verify needles. If the mixture screws aren't at 4 turns, that will be what I check next. 4 shims seemed really high so I just thought it must be turns...but I guess 4 turns out is also pretty high.
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Old 11-21-2009, 08:06 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Can't remember if the shims are 0.5mm or 0.25mm

If there ARE 2 under each needle, it will only be lifted a maximum of 1mm.

If you look for a picture of a needle and look at the minute taper to them, lifting it evem 1mm is a minute adjustment.
Some other carbs I've seen with the old circlip type adjustment
must alter the needle height by about 6-8mm

Have never heard of idle mixture screws 4 turns out.

Good luck with the messin' about though.

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Old 11-21-2009, 08:12 AM   #7 (permalink)
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with the CVK's i thought a sort of general rule of thumb was if you go more that 2.5-3 turns out you should go up a pilot jet size and see if that works better.

i've never had good luck shimming the CVK's. my bike always performed better with no shims. even just one shum madde it too rich in the low end.
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Old 11-21-2009, 08:12 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hs3000 View Post
I realize that your settings may not be perfect for my bike, but considering how much work and testing you have done I figured it would get me very close.
Do you know what differences would result in the separate setups that you and Jenks came up with?
HS, there's no reason why your settings shouldnt be fairly close to mine for similar mods.

At the moment your probably running a bit rich across the board, your bike will no doubt start very well but be overly rich low down, your fuel consumption will be increased and you'll be down a little on performace.
Nothing too drastic, but could probably be fine tuned to be nearer optimum.

All in MHO of course!! Hope that helps.



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Old 11-21-2009, 02:39 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Go with Ventura's set up. I have a T100 and had the same set up as you. Hyde Togas, unifilter, snorkel and AI removed. I jetted it as the jenks guide, had it dyno'd and the AF was way rich at 11:1 across the board.
I have now got an A/F guage fitted to my bike. I have now modified the air box like Ventura to a double entry airbox with the restrictor plate removed and I am still on 40 pilots.
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Old 11-21-2009, 03:02 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Ok, so I checked the mixture screws and they actually were between 3 1/2 - 4 turns out! Pulled the needles (can't believe I could do it without removing the tank) and I have 1 shim under each. I turned the mixture screws to 2 turns out and will wait to see how that feels.
Strange but by all accounts I should be running a little rich, yet I have been averaging 50mpg in mixed riding.

Thanks for all the help. I will report back after a thorough sotp test!
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