Triumphrat

olbastard

Im going to be adjusting my chain soon, and in looking at my rear wheel spindles, I find the nuts are too close to the exhaust (preds) to put a torque wrench with a socket on. My only option unless I take the exhaust off is to use an end wrench and wing it.... Anybody have any advice????
Thanks

ohiorider

It's easy enough to remove the mufflers to get at the spindle bolts. I do it every time I change tires, and that's been when I adjust the chain. Others on this forum remove the shocks, or at least loosen them enough to pull off the bottom ends of the shocks, and drop the swing arm far enough to allow them to use sockets and torque wrench, without removing the mufflers.

Now, what might be nice would be some sort of crow's foot wrench that you could attach to a torque wrench and tighten to the proper torque without having to undo anything. Sort of like this one, but with a slightly longer lever on it. (rather expensive, however)
http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=127216

(Does Triumph offer such a tool?)

Bob

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03 T100 Lucifer Org and Silv: 122/42 jets, TORs, 18T, UNI filter, no AI, Polaris bellmouth, Metz 880 tires, Prog. 440 shocks (105/150 springs), 11-1124 fork springs, Thrux fork caps, gaiters, MotoTwin low bars, 6024 lamp, htd grips, 12v outlet.

Forchetto

Rather than a crow's foot open ended wrench, I'd go for this type:



They come with instructions to compensate for the extra length on your torque spanner settings.

The rear axle nut needs 85 Nm, and a 24 mm spanner size.

There are all sorts of torque spanner extensions, like these:

Normandy

Just lay everything you got onto your wrench, you won't strip it and it's a locknut besides.

olbastard

Now I'm getting somewhere.... I'm glad to see there are alternatives to trying to guess what the torque should be...
I can see that removing the mufflers wouldn't be that big a thing, but something simpler would be even better.... But, ohiorider, 50 pounds for a crows foot??? Ya realize how much that is in shrinking US dollars??? Ouch!
Also, thanks to you Forchetto, for the diagram. I can see where the torque adjustment would definitely change...

RedBird

If you have a center-stand, just take the top shock bolts out and slip the shocks off the mount--the rear wheel will drop far enough to use your socket and torque wrench...no special tools needed, and no fuss removing the silencers. Replacing the shocks on the top mounts is very easy.

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Larry
2003 T-100 (790cc), NARK, NH Togas, 8100 rpm rev limiter, 158 main jets, 42 pilot jets (less than 1 turn out on pilot screws), stock needles--no shims. 13 A/F ratio from 1100 rpm to 4000 rpm; 12 A/F ratio from 4000 rpm to 6000 rpm; 13 A/F from 6000 rpm to 8100 rpm.:D
2007 Tiger 1050--White:D--SW-Motech crashbars, Skidmarx rear hugger/chain guard, Calsci +7 windscreen.

ohiorider

That'd be way expensive, all right! Only used this link to show you an example. If someone like Harbor Freight had these wrenches, it'd be much cheaper. The formula to use extensions on a torque wrench works something like this:

_____!__________ = 12" wrench (measured from middle of wrench handle to drive)

_____!__________+++++ = 12" wrench + 5" extension for total of 17"

Divide 12/17 = .70 or 70%

So, if torque required in this example was 100ft/lb, using the longer wrench/crows foot, you'd set the wrench for 70ft/lb.

This only holds true if the extension is in line with the torque wrench. I think (please confirm before using this info) that if the crows foot is at 90 degrees to the torque wrench, torque settings stay the same.

For more info, I'd search 'crows foot wrench' or similar search. That's where I found info on how to calculate torque using an extension on the torque wrench. Used it twice now when replacing driveshaft on my old Beemer.

Bob

__________________
03 T100 Lucifer Org and Silv: 122/42 jets, TORs, 18T, UNI filter, no AI, Polaris bellmouth, Metz 880 tires, Prog. 440 shocks (105/150 springs), 11-1124 fork springs, Thrux fork caps, gaiters, MotoTwin low bars, 6024 lamp, htd grips, 12v outlet.

olbastard

Holy crap! Don't think I can do that in my head....
Hey, seeings as how you've a BMW also, it might interest you to know I was at a party Sunday and a fellow was introduced to me as "The premier suspension man in the world, in fact he designed the suspension now being used on the new BMWs"
Yeah, what a crock I thought... Today I looked him up on google, and I'll be damned if I didn't meet Norman Hossack.... I didn't realize he put the suspension to use in a Triumph some years ago.
"They're very nice motorcycles" he said as he viewed my 500 mile old SE.... Well, hell yes they're nice!

ohiorider

In your head? Neither did I .......
Interesting that you met Norman Hossack. The new K series bikes use what BMW calls a Duolever front end, very much like the original Hossack design. Their WSB contender (S1000RR) uses standard tele front end.

BTW - I'm going to take my own advice and see if Harbor Freight has any inexpensive crows feet for sale.

EDIT - yes they do ..... unfortunately, none large enough for our rear axle bolts.

Bob

__________________
03 T100 Lucifer Org and Silv: 122/42 jets, TORs, 18T, UNI filter, no AI, Polaris bellmouth, Metz 880 tires, Prog. 440 shocks (105/150 springs), 11-1124 fork springs, Thrux fork caps, gaiters, MotoTwin low bars, 6024 lamp, htd grips, 12v outlet.

ohiorider

I have to give this a try next time. Makes good sense!

Bob

__________________
03 T100 Lucifer Org and Silv: 122/42 jets, TORs, 18T, UNI filter, no AI, Polaris bellmouth, Metz 880 tires, Prog. 440 shocks (105/150 springs), 11-1124 fork springs, Thrux fork caps, gaiters, MotoTwin low bars, 6024 lamp, htd grips, 12v outlet.