Triumphrat

casino · 11-04-2009, 06:50 PM

Hi Guys, I'm going to attempt the flip and swap clip ons mod on my 05 Thrux. Basically all the work I've done on the bike so far has just been by feel when tightening. But I figure the handle bars are such a crucial part of the bike, I don't want to get it wrong or damage anything. So I figure nows as good a time as ever. I've never used one before and obviously never purchased one either. Can anyone offer some advice? I think on the clip ons there are allen bolts, and I'll also need to take off the top yoke –*will one wrench suit a variety of applications? I've got the various torque settings (thanks to this forum!) that I need to do the swap, but just no idea how to apply these either, hopefully it will make more sense when i have the wrench in my hand!
Cheers

bonza · 11-04-2009, 07:01 PM

I see you are in Sydney Australia, so I recommend you visit this

http://www.warrenandbrown.com.au/Pre...FQEupAodaAOUyA

or

http://www.norbar.com.au/

they make a good range of different sizes here in Aussie. I have used them a lot

I'm a spanner man/mech engineer by trade and profession, and if there is one thing I have learnt, buyin a cheapo torque wrench is not only inaccurate, but a complete waste of time and money

a 3/8" drive 0 - 80 Ft/lb range should suit most bike applications

blackstar1965 · 11-04-2009, 07:55 PM

While I agree with Bonza about cheap torque wrenches, I don't think you need to spend a large sum of money on a torque wrench, as you really aren't going to use it as often as you think.

The reality is, you aren't going to take off any bolts/nuts with a torque wrench, so you're only going to use it for half the job anyway.

Also, being that you're not a mechanic and you're not going to use it even once a week, it's going to collect dust after you use it for this project; so if you forget to back it off and then don't touch it for a couple weeks/months, it already has to be recalibrated and won't be accurate next time you want to use it.

Don't buy the cheapest one you see, and don't buy the most expensive.

Also, make sure the wrench has a Newton-Meter (Nm) scale on it.
That's handy.

casino · 11-04-2009, 08:02 PM

thanks guys, great advice so far.. All the settings in the haynes manual are in NM so that is crucial..

Normandy · 11-04-2009, 09:24 PM

Unless you are in the engine and you have the "feel" you are better off without a torque wrench. Most of the stripped thread problems listed here are done WITH a torque wrench.

casino · 11-04-2009, 09:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Normandy

Unless you are in the engine and you have the "feel" you are better off without a torque wrench. Most of the stripped thread problems listed here are done WITH a torque wrench.

Really? I just thought since i was removing the top yoke and clip ons it would be so crucial to get it right.. The large bolt on the top yoke (hope I'm using the right terminology here) seems pretty important! I don't want it flying off or being done up too tight and not doing it's job properly..

blackstar1965 · 11-04-2009, 11:43 PM

I didn't think you had to remove that nut...
I thought the pinch bolts on the yokes and clip-ons were were loosened, controls removed, forks lowered, bars swapped, and then put back together.
Someone correct me, I haven't done the mod myself.

I agree with Normandy, but for someone that hasn't done much wrenching, a torque wrench will help them learn the feel.

I rarely use a torque wrench at work and I doubt the bike was put together with one...

casino · 11-04-2009, 11:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blackstar1965

I didn't think you had to remove that nut...
I thought the pinch bolts on the yokes and clip-ons were were loosened, controls removed, forks lowered, bars swapped, and then put back together.
Someone correct me, I haven't done the mod myself.

I agree with Normandy, but for someone that hasn't done much wrenching, a torque wrench will help them learn the feel.

I rarely use a torque wrench at work and I doubt the bike was put together with one...

I think there are two ways to do it (from researching), one requiring a bike lift, the other taking the top off?

plodalong · 11-05-2009, 12:35 AM

Have to agree with Bonza, Warren and Brown arn't cheap but they're very accurate and don,t go out of calibration easily like some of the breaker type. I used to work in an aviation calibration centre and even the good quality ones like snapon, norbar ect go out of calibration quickly if the setting isn't backed off after use and we all forget sometimes. Another point is you have to hold the torque wrench in the right place usally marked on the handle or your torque wont be right. You will also need a 30mm socket for that big nut on the top yoke (its a lot easier than dropping the forks) I also err on the low side of the torque value if the bolts threaded into alloy as i've seen a lot of stripped threads.

Overkill0084 · 11-05-2009, 11:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Normandy

Unless you are in the engine and you have the "feel" you are better off without a torque wrench. Most of the stripped thread problems listed here are done WITH a torque wrench.

If there is a problem with breakage when using a torque wrench, then there is at least one problem, possibly 2.
1. Operator error
2. Defective/poorly engineered parts.

I have seen the product of people who did it by feel:
Missile and launcher lost in flight because of inadequately torqued mount bolts. The F-16 wingtip launcher is held by only 3 bolts torqued to 1000 in/lbs, you really want to get that right. Person thought that "gutentight" was enough.
While there are some out there who can nail a proper torque by feel, most can't. I really don't want to risk my life/bike etc. on it. It's only 30 more seconds of the job, why shortcut it? How about head bolts, do you really want your mechanic guessing. How about the guy at the tire shop? I always watch the wheel install to ensure they torque the lug nuts, am I the only one? 2 grunts is not a torque spec.