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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #61 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaguartvr View Post
Rather than selling your games consules and guitars to pay the repair bill, might I suggest selling all your power tools...and maybe anything sharp in the kitchen.

Some people just can't be trusted
hahahaha right on!
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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #62 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by T100Mike View Post
They wouldn't order me a triangular badge for my engine either. They said it wasn't covered under warranty. I mean, THE THING FELL OFF THEIR PRODUCT WHILE UNDER WARRANTY. Oh well......

Lesson learned.
Man these guys are really shafting you. This happened to me and my dealer ordered a new one and replaced it at no cost.
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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #63 (permalink)
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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #64 (permalink)
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Question

let me ask a stupid question, if it was a k&n filter why didnt you use a socket or wrench on it? all k&n oil filters have a nut on the bottom 17 or 18 mm
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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #65 (permalink)
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I used the 17mm socket. It instantly stripped. The filter was just completely stipped instantly. The metal they make those out of was too soft......
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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #66 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T100Mike View Post
I used the 17mm socket. It instantly stripped. The filter was just completely stipped instantly. The metal they make those out of was too soft......
FWIW I recently used a pair of silsons (in the US maybe you call them a different name? pipe wrench?). Grab the whole can and unscrew.

Works like a charm - actually was easier than the previous dedicated oil filter tool I used to have years ago.

No need to buy a special tool (or to drill!) if you have something that can do the job already lying around.
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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #67 (permalink)
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A big pair of channel lock pliers works every time
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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #68 (permalink)
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Next time you have a tight filter, you might want to use a strap wrench. Device wraps around the filter and attaches to a ratchet or power bar. The filter will be destroyed but removed.

Haven't read the whole thread but there was mention made of JB weld. I have used this stuff many times to repair cast aluminum and steel. Devcon Epoxy Steel or Aluminum also works good or any derivitive such as LPS Strong Steel Stick. Just plug the hole and within a few minutes (if you have the fast set stuff) you are ready to go. It can be drilled and tapped. I once plugged a fist size hole in a Clark 18000 series transmission with a pop can and JB weld. Ran for several years after that. We use it to repair all kinds of transmission and engine castings as well as a cheap filler for bushings when line boring isn't practical.

Can you get your bike back and plug the weld. $10 worth of weld would have fixed this.
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Old 1 Week Ago   #69 (permalink)
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Back on two wheels.
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