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Old 11-05-2009, 06:28 PM   #61 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by jaguartvr View Post
Rather than selling your games consules and guitars to pay the repair bill, might I suggest selling all your power tools...and maybe anything sharp in the kitchen.

Some people just can't be trusted
hahahaha right on!
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Old 11-05-2009, 10:05 PM   #62 (permalink)
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They wouldn't order me a triangular badge for my engine either. They said it wasn't covered under warranty. I mean, THE THING FELL OFF THEIR PRODUCT WHILE UNDER WARRANTY. Oh well......

Lesson learned.
Man these guys are really shafting you. This happened to me and my dealer ordered a new one and replaced it at no cost.
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Old 11-06-2009, 01:04 AM   #63 (permalink)
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Old 11-06-2009, 03:27 AM   #64 (permalink)
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Question

let me ask a stupid question, if it was a k&n filter why didnt you use a socket or wrench on it? all k&n oil filters have a nut on the bottom 17 or 18 mm
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Old 11-06-2009, 09:03 AM   #65 (permalink)
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I used the 17mm socket. It instantly stripped. The filter was just completely stipped instantly. The metal they make those out of was too soft......
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Old 11-06-2009, 06:51 PM   #66 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by T100Mike View Post
I used the 17mm socket. It instantly stripped. The filter was just completely stipped instantly. The metal they make those out of was too soft......
FWIW I recently used a pair of silsons (in the US maybe you call them a different name? pipe wrench?). Grab the whole can and unscrew.

Works like a charm - actually was easier than the previous dedicated oil filter tool I used to have years ago.

No need to buy a special tool (or to drill!) if you have something that can do the job already lying around.
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Old 11-06-2009, 08:11 PM   #67 (permalink)
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A big pair of channel lock pliers works every time
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Old 11-06-2009, 10:07 PM   #68 (permalink)
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Next time you have a tight filter, you might want to use a strap wrench. Device wraps around the filter and attaches to a ratchet or power bar. The filter will be destroyed but removed.

Haven't read the whole thread but there was mention made of JB weld. I have used this stuff many times to repair cast aluminum and steel. Devcon Epoxy Steel or Aluminum also works good or any derivitive such as LPS Strong Steel Stick. Just plug the hole and within a few minutes (if you have the fast set stuff) you are ready to go. It can be drilled and tapped. I once plugged a fist size hole in a Clark 18000 series transmission with a pop can and JB weld. Ran for several years after that. We use it to repair all kinds of transmission and engine castings as well as a cheap filler for bushings when line boring isn't practical.

Can you get your bike back and plug the weld. $10 worth of weld would have fixed this.
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Old 11-07-2009, 10:27 AM   #69 (permalink)
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Back on two wheels.
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Old 02-12-2010, 11:35 AM   #70 (permalink)
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This thread makes my brain hurt. So much bad information everywhere, I don't even know where to begin.

First, I invite everyone to turn to page 3 of their Triumph Motorcycle Warranty and Service Record. Read the section entitled "Conditions and Exclusions".

Conditions and Exclusions
1. The machine must not have been used for competition, misused, inadequately maintained, or incorrectly serviced or maintained

2. The machine must not have been subject to any modification, repair or replacement other than as authorized by Triumph Motorcycles America Limited.

3. The machine must have been serviced by an authorized Triumph dealer, at the intervals specified in the Triumph owner's handbook and the service log completed accordingly.

4. Defects caused by faulty adjustment, neglect, or repairs and alterations performed by a NON-AUTHORIZED Triumph dealer are not covered by this warranty.

I could go on, but that's a good portion of what you should know...you signed a statement saying you understood the terms and conditions when you purchased your new Triumph.

Secondly,

The sump costs $263.99
oil filter $12.99
sump gasket $8.99
2 header gaskets total $21.98
1 gallon of Triumph oil $59.99

That should be everything necessary to do the job, totaling $367.94.

Now, I would assume that's a 3 hour job at a dealership. Average rate for labor is $100/hr. I happen to know that your dealership's rate is $80/hr. So let's say they charge you $240 labor.

That comes to something like $626.
Can anyone tell me how this guy got screwed?

Could he have done it cheaper himself? Sure. Keep in mind that this guy created the problem himself though, trying to accomplish the simple task of changing his oil.

Doing some shoddy welding job, or other mr. fix it routine would DEFINITELY have voided his warranty regarding the engine. DEFINITELY. Maybe an attorney would tell you otherwise, but you are going to have to take it to court to make it so. Every OEM operates this way. You can't just weld holes you've drilled in things that are vital to the performance of the machine and expect it to still be warrantied.

As for the little decal/badge, did you walk out of the dealership without one? Generally speaking, the guy in parts won't be authorized to give anything away. If you spoke with the manager, I can almost guarantee he would have good-willed you a <$5 emblem.
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