Triumphrat

ohiorider · 07-23-2009, 07:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PieMan

I also noticed how much stiction was bought about by the weather seals that plug into the sliders. What I did: tape up the top of the slider to the stantion, so nothing can fall on the fork seals. Cut some sandpaper/wet 'n dry about 3" high and enough to wrap round the stantion. With it wrapped round the stantion and held in place with one hand, bring the weather seal down over the sandpaper/wet 'n dry and then twist it round, back and forth. Lift it above the paper and see how it feels on the stantion, I eventually made mine a snug fit, but with very little drag. Blow any remnants of sanding off the slider tape and remove. Then oil the stantion and move the weather seal up and down the stantion, you will see a black line of oil/rubber, wipe this clean and push the weather seals home.

This made a big difference in how the forks settle to the same level after bouncing up and down.

So, the weather seals pop out fairly easily? Neat. I never considered these things could be a source of stiction. I also run gaiters, so this may be next on my list if fork things to do. Question - did you start at 130mm fork oil level, or work your way to this after starting at the stock 120mm?

Bob

PieMan · 07-24-2009, 02:15 AM

I did start at 120mm, but felt it was a little too harsh so went to 130mm. I want to try 140mm as I figure the Intiminators take up about 20mm of fluid space.

johnyC · 07-24-2009, 02:59 AM

pieman,

To quote Carl Fogarty "I 'ate s'pension", I'm the same. But since we're on the subject, I had problems with harshness after fitting Ikon fork springs. I changed the oil to 5 weight, but kept the level the same. I later read a thread on here about how much difference can be had from reducing the level of oil if you find your suspension harsh. (for some reason, my efi Bonnie forks are more compliant over wee bumps than the Scram's)

Also may be of some use to those of you fine tuning spacer lengths, bicycle 'Aheadset' spacers for 1 1/8" steerer tubes (available in packs of assorted thicknes) from any cycle shop. Pictures on this thread: http://www.triumphrat.net/twins-tech...k-springs.html

ohiorider · 07-24-2009, 07:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PieMan

I did start at 120mm, but felt it was a little too harsh so went to 130mm. I want to try 140mm as I figure the Intiminators take up about 20mm of fluid space.

Mike, one more question .... did you set your fork oil level, then install the Intiminators? I installed the Intiminators first, then set my level at 120mm.

Re various fork oil levels ...... makes a big difference, since the less non-compressable fluid in the fork, the more compressable air is available to act as an 'air spring'. This seems to be rather critical. I played with the levels when I was running the 11-1126 Progressive springs, starting at 140mm below, then 175 below, finally opting for 165 mm below.

Question, whatever happened to the little drain plugs on the bottom of the forks .... remember, you removed them, then pumped the bike's forks to drain them? Wonder if anyone on the forum knows if this could be done on our Bonnies? Might make fine tuning the fork much easier.

Bob

PieMan · 07-24-2009, 05:22 PM

Bob, I filled with oil then pushed the Intiminators through the oil with the spring. I'm going to the 140mm level because of a slight harshness of rebound, I'll see what happens.

Drain plugs, too bloody right! Where have they gone? I fitted a pair of Intiminators to a mate's Sportster a couple of weeks ago. Before hand I thought it may be quite a job, to my surprise it had drain plugs on the forks. It wouldn't be that hard a mod to do to our bikes when the forks are dismantled. Why didn't I think of that before, bugger, gonna have to strip them again.

BJK · 07-27-2009, 07:00 PM

Pieman, Do you remember how ml's of oil you removed from the forks to reduce the level from 120mm to 130mm from the top? And did you remove the fork, spacers and springs or just remove it with the forks installed and the caps removed. Thanks

fishinhook · 10-17-2009, 11:45 AM

Figured some new pics would be nice. Bob

iomatic · 12-12-2012, 05:23 PM

Hey guys,

Considering installing some Thruxton forks on my T100-- eventually will be going to a 17 front, but that's another story. Mostly, I want to tighten up geometry with the 19, and see if i can play around a tad. Can someone please post a step-by step overview of some good starting points and measurements?

Feel free to PM as well.

Thanks.

PAAS · 12-12-2012, 05:56 PM

Fitting Thruxton forks to a T100 won't change the geometry. I have a pair on my T100 and they're the same length as the original forks. The only differences are in the mudguard and brake caliper mounts (and the preload adjusters). The different fork geometry of the Thruxton is due to the different offset in the fork yokes (triple trees) so you would need to fit those to get a change. Obviously the 18" wheel and longer rear shocks also affect the overall steering geometry. Raising the fork tubes by up to 20mm in the triple trees so they stick out of the top will speed up the steering, but watch out for your mudguard being dented by the horn if you're still using the soft OEM springs.

iomatic · 12-12-2012, 06:08 PM

Aye; thanks. I was also thinking about the dark arts of new front springs and new oil... but, maybe it would be best to get the wheels/tires I want first, and adjust for that (with new trees).