Triumphrat

spacewolf

Just did the AI removal on my Bonnie, very easy and neat. Gonna do the wife's bonnie prolly this weekend.
Thanks for this tech info, bloody handy and easy to follow.

b0rderman

Thanks for the info. I did the marble quick fix some time ago and now I've finally did the proper removal w/ resistor.

I am sure it is answered in this thread somewhere but I have yet to be able to find it: What are the 4 rubber plugs for in the kit?

Thanks!

edit: did some more digging, are these plugs for carbed bikes, or O2 sensor removal maybe?

sprouty115

Yes, carbed bikes. If you have an EFI then you don't need them.

__________________
- Stephen

exlimeydedbt

Am i a bit dim? showed the bullet conectors on resistor,on bike, but were do you plug them into

Forchetto

Where the connector for the solenoid was. The connector can be either removed and replaced by female bullet connectors or the resistor and its wires can be soldered directly to the wires.

Alternatively a much smaller, higher value resistor can be prepared and plugged into the existing connector as shown on this post:

http://www.triumphrat.net/twins-tech...ml#post2157299

Luxlamf

Escuse my question if it seems pedestrian, But I recently bought the BC AI Removal kit for my 2012 Scrambler. Bought it thinking it was a "Simple" upgrade and go along with my new Arrow 2-1 nicely", reading this Tech Heavy thread (Tech Heavy in language used) I have now made an appointment at the dealership to install it, they say 1/2 hour service. This leads me to believe its simpler than I am understanding. I am not a complete idiot, I have a 2002 VROD and have done everything to that bike up to replacing and upgrading clutch from standard to slipper etc.., very straight forward but once you guys start getting into "Resistors" and electric talk I am lost. My question is what is the Least I can do to install this? I hear mentions of "Leaving the electronics alone" etc... but no clear place to "Stop" the install that is considered 'Enough". Is there another thread I am not fiding using the search function that has this info available in "Plain English"?
Thanks for Listening.

Forchetto

The problem with the EFI models is that complete removal involves deleting the solenoid. This is a computer-controlled electro-magnetic valve that opens and closes the air flow to the system.

Because AI is an emissions item the makers are required by law to have a means of detecting when this solenoid is faulty or has been removed and this turns the engine check light ON.

To avoid this the solenoid can either be replaced by a resistor which acts as a dummy load fooling the computer into thinking the valve is still there, or use software such as TuneECU to turn off the warning lamp facility.

The easiest thing to do to avoid electrical complications is to remove the entire system but leave the solenoid in place. It only weighs a few grams and will continue to click on and off uselessly for ever keeping the computer happy.

Jayell

I've already installed a resistor, so it's all moot for me, but if one were to leave the solenoid in place, would it be necessary to plug the ports of the solenoid?

BTW, I've not checked, but does the resistor generate any heat? Is this a concern?

Forchetto

No, no need to plug the solenoid ports.

The heat disipated in the resistor depends on the value chosen. A 47 Ohm resistor would draw 0.25 amps and dissipate 3 watts.

If you fitted a 3 watt resistor it would get hot, yes, being as it would be working at maximum power rating. If you use an oversized resistor, 10 watts for example, those 3 watts would be spread over a much larger surface area and it would just feel warm.

More about different value resistors on this post:

http://www.triumphrat.net/twins-tech...ml#post2157299

Jayell

Thanks, as always, Mr. Forchetto! For what it's worth, I installed a 50Ω, 10 watt resistor.