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Twins Technical Talk Technical Talk for Hinckley Triumph Twins: Bonneville, T100, Speedmaster, America, Thruxton, and Scrambler.

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Old 06-12-2009, 03:53 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by VirtualNomad View Post
Silly question, but does the rectifier do? Sounds slightly obscene.
AC generators or alternators are used almost exclusively on vehicles nowadays as they're more efficient than DC generators or dynamos. As most systems on the vehicle, specially the battery, require DC to work, the rectifier is a semiconductor arrangement that turns the AC into DC.
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Old 06-12-2009, 04:55 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by evalu8or View Post
My concern now is the number on the R/R I picked up off the 08 CBR1000 is not FH012AA. It is - FH014AA. I looked on the Shindengen site for specs on the unit but didn't find anything.
Is this unit going to work for me?
Do you have the unit? There should be five (5) electrical connections. Two are the + and - for the battery, the other three go to the stator.

If the connections are the same, you should be fine. The part numbers that start with "FH" are MOSFET units. The part numbers that start with "SH" are shunt-type rectifier/regulators. The latter type regulate using a resistance - that's why they get hot. That's the type you have that is overheating. MOSFET units get warm, but you can still put your hand on them.

I'm pretty sure the FH010 was referenced in one of the threads as being OK. There is a whole slew of these things out there. Some have the same P/N, but ending in BA instead of AA. I don't have the specifics on the units, but I speculate that they are different configurations of the same basic unit (form differences, different connectors, pigtails, etc).
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Old 06-12-2009, 05:49 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pokeyjoe View Post
Do you have the unit? There should be five (5) electrical connections. Two are the + and - for the battery, the other three go to the stator.

If the connections are the same, you should be fine. The part numbers that start with "FH" are MOSFET units. The part numbers that start with "SH" are shunt-type rectifier/regulators. The latter type regulate using a resistance - that's why they get hot. That's the type you have that is overheating. MOSFET units get warm, but you can still put your hand on them.

I'm pretty sure the FH010 was referenced in one of the threads as being OK. There is a whole slew of these things out there. Some have the same P/N, but ending in BA instead of AA. I don't have the specifics on the units, but I speculate that they are different configurations of the same basic unit (form differences, different connectors, pigtails, etc).
Thanks Joe,
Yes I have it already; it looks much the same as the FH012AA and has five pins. It looks easy enough to hook up and I though it would be ok to use as well. Just wanted to check with you guys since you have done so much research on this.
Thanks again for your help and I'll be sure to post my out come for other to use.
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Old 06-12-2009, 08:26 PM   #14 (permalink)
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As per PM, the FH014 will be fine.
The connector plug arrangement is a little different so will be unable to utilize the source I have identified for the Furukawa connectors plugs that fit the 010 & 012;
But will work just fine with spade terminals, like we are all using in interim.

The fried cables indicate that your R/R probably had a diode(s) or SCR(s) shorted in the rectifier stage.
If that was the case, then you your stator be be somewhat 'baked' and even if currently functional, may have lowered its usable lifetime.
It would be good to do the tests I established in the diagnostic guide anyway - check for yourself. The simplest, quickest is just to check to see if you have any low resistance (i.e. short) between any of the stator plug pins and the engine. Then check the AC Volts out of each pair of pins (three readings)

When you connect the new R/R your most efficient connection will be to cut off the plug & damaged section of cable and connect the spade terminals direct onto the cable ends. If undamaged, you could have removed the input cable complete with connector off the R/R and used that as an intermediate harness to the new R/R.

After you install the new R/R and start it up, you should see over 14V at the battery (note that there is a 'soft start' to the new R/R models so voltage will slowly ramp to that level)
If it does not reach 14V+, then you should re-visit your stator. WIll keep fingers crossed for you that you don't need that also.
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Old 06-12-2009, 08:35 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pokeyjoe View Post
....The part numbers that start with "SH" are shunt-type rectifier/regulators. The latter type regulate using a resistance - that's why they get hot. That's the type you have that is overheating. .....
Not really Pokeyjoe - they are indeed shunt regulators but 'shunt' the current from the stator to ground via SCR's (Silicon Controlled Rectifiers aka Thyristors) - These are crude devices - either on or off, and when 'on', they sink a LOT of current (effectively like a short circuit), which translates to heat, which is (hopefully) dissipated by the heatsink to which they are mechanically attached (but not electrically). It is the SCR's themselves that get hot.
Even when they work normally they generate a tremendous amount of heat energy.
Note that the Regulator actually does less 'shunting' when the output load is higher - more current out of the output, means the shunt needs to be 'on' less, so will actually run cooler when the load is higher (or the rpm is lower).
The maximum 'shunt' will be with minimal load and high engine rpm.
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Old 07-10-2009, 09:03 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Well, many thanks to you guys for your help. Got the new R/R installed, intime for my trip to Monton, NB a 3500 km trip with no issues.
I had to do some cutting of tabs on the battery box and relocate a couple items, but I got the new R/R mounted right where I think it should have been to start with. Under the side panel. I cut into the wiring harness and took out all the wires that ran to the original R/R, to clean things up. With the R/R where it is now all the wires are no longer than 8 inches. See photos
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regulator rectifier help-p1030954.jpg   regulator rectifier help-p1030956.jpg   regulator rectifier help-thruxton-spyder-08.jpg  
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