DIY - EFI Bonnie Gas tank removal and cam cover replacement (lots of Pics) - Triumph Forum: Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums
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Twins Technical Talk Technical Talk for Hinckley Triumph Twins: Bonneville, T100, Speedmaster, America, Thruxton, and Scrambler.

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Old 06-07-2009, 10:02 AM   #1 (permalink)
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DIY - EFI Bonnie Gas tank removal and cam cover replacement (lots of Pics)

I recently put a chrome cam cover on my 09 EFI T100 and I am posting this in the hope that it is useful to anyone attempting the same. First of all thanks to all who have posted information about this procedure as I don't think I would have attempted it without your encouragement.

Lets get to it:

HINTS: Prepare a "nest" to place the gas tank once it is removed so it won't be damaged. Optional: buy a new cam cover gasket and four cam cover bolt rubber washers. (The original gaskets and washers worked fine for me.) And, run the fuel low in the tank or it will be handful to manhandle.



Unbolt the gas tank at the rear and use a wooden board on its side to prop up the back of the tank. This gives you enough room to disconnect the fuel pump (internal in tank) wiring harness on the left side and pull off the vent hose on the right.





Notice there was some crud at the bottom of the vent hose on the tank that I cleaned off before reassembling.

No picture for the next part as my hands were full of gas tank. Stand on the right side of the bike (wearing a non-scratching shirt), grip the tank and rotate it about 90 degrees towards you (with the top of the tank against your chest) so you can reach around with your free arm and disconnect the fuel line quick release. There is a lot of pay in the fuel line to let you do this. Make sure you have a rag handy as some fuel will spill from the lines. Again, make sure the tank is low on gas or it will be too heavy. I found it helpful to rest the rear of the tank in a notch in the frame while doing this to stabilize it. Make sure you don't contact the battery terminals as they are not far away.
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Old 06-07-2009, 10:04 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Getting the orange clip holding the fuel line release together off is easier to do than describe, but I will try. With your free hand grasp the clip, rotate it about 90 degrees and lift it slightly. You can now roll it back (one leg at a time) and slide it off the connector. Once the clip is out of the way, squeeze the two rectangular buttons on each side of the connector and pull it off.

The gas tank is now free of the bike and can be placed in a safe place. This is what you are left with.



Notice the fuel line and connector just in front of the frame backbone.
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Old 06-07-2009, 10:07 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I had to loosen and slide out of the way all the stuff dangling below the frame backbone as well as the remove the spark plug lead and AI hose. There are four bolts (two separate brackets) into the backbone on the right side that have to be removed. Looking from the left side there are two Torx screws that have to be removed (see below).



Everything will then fold out of the way so you can lift the cam cover clear.



The one mistake I may have made is twisting and pulling up on the AI hose. I think I damaged the seal where there appears to be a bunch of aluminum foil. (see below). Some day when others figure out how to easily remove AI from an EFI bike without remapping or adding a PCIII (are you listening Biker7) it will be gone from my bike, but until then I think I will have to find a way to reclamp this connector. I suggest you first try to wiggle out the cam cover without disconnecting the AI hose at the factory clamped connector if you can.



Next, unbolt the cam cover using the four hex head bolts. Breaking the seal of the cam cover to the head requires some judicious blows from a rubber hammer. Carefully lift the old gasket and four rubber bolt washers out of the old cover and place on the new (or install new gasket and bolt washers if you have them). Place cam cover on the head and finger tighten the bolts and jiggle the cover to where you want it. The next step is extremely important unless you want to strip the cam cover bolts and spend a lot of $$$ fixing it. Tighten the cam cover bolts to only 10 Nm. Overtightening will strip the bolts.

Reassemble the rest in reverse order.

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Last edited by Easy; 06-07-2009 at 04:02 PM.
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Old 06-07-2009, 11:00 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Nice! Excellent addition to the "how to's". I will link this in the sticky!
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Old 06-07-2009, 12:11 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Nice one Easy - always handy to know
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Old 06-07-2009, 12:56 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Good job, Easy! Was wondering about that stuff - makes a carburetor bike all the more appealing, LOL.
Think I want to dump the SASI system, mainly 'cause I don't like the pipe stickin' out by the spark plug.

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Old 06-07-2009, 04:14 PM   #7 (permalink)
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The finished product...

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Old 06-07-2009, 07:37 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Great Job Easy. Looks really sweet.

A comment about AI. You must of been away from the board. Dick removed his with the stock map and used a 50 ohm resistor. If you want...wait for my DIY on the EFI AI removal. I wil try to document the important steps. You don't need a Power Commander to remove both the AI and the solenoid on the EFI bike Richard.

A question about the tank removal. When you rotated the tank up 5" in back with block of wood...did you first disengage the U clips from underneath the front of the tank? If so, how did you disengage the U clips? I am presuming there are no bolts on the front of the tank as with some bikes. Is this so?

Thanks,
George

Last edited by biker7; 06-07-2009 at 07:39 PM.
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Old 06-07-2009, 07:43 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Old 06-07-2009, 08:23 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Hi George. Thank you for your comments.

I saw Dick's AI removal but I am confused as to what to do, especially since he was working with a PC at the same time. I am going to wait for your DIY which will hopefully just deal with the AI removal from an EFI bike. With lots of pics I hope on where to put the resistor etc. And what a solenoid looks like I hope you are going to try and run it first with the factory map.

Re the tank... you are right. No bolts at the front, just huge flanges on the tank that engage large rubber knobs sticking out each side of the backbone frame. Pull the tank back a couple of inches after removing the two rear bolts and then lift the back and slide the board under. There is little or no resistance when you pull back on the tank, so it really isn't clipped in too hard. I don't think you will have any problems.
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