Triumphrat

itcha

It's that time and the valve clearance need attention.

When measuring the clearance which measurement do you take, the first measurement where you feel a bit of resistance or drag or the largest measurement just before the gauge will no longer pass through the gap?

Also I have only measured the clearance but not measured the shim size as I don't won't to pull the cams out just yet. Can I still get the correct size shims to get clearance back into spec. Does the thickness of the original shim change over 2 years and just wondering what the measurement of the original shims are please?


Cheers, Ron.

mikeinva

The best way for someone that does not use feeler gauges alot is to use them like a go-no go gauge.lets say you want .010 inch .A.009 should go in but a .011 should not go in.Shims dont wear much they are real hard metal.There is no one size on a new bike ,its what ever it took to get them right at the factory.You will have to measure them to see what you have in there.

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Why do I feel young on my bike

itcha

I measured all the valves and they are all pretty much right at the upper end of the acceptable range. Exhausts were either 28 and 30mm and the intake were either 18 and 20 mm.
I guess I should look at reshimming, still haven't decided whether to have a crack myself or get the bike shop to do it. The whole process makes me a bit nervous and I would hate to root the motor to save a couple of hundred bucks. On the other hand I have always done all other maintainance and mods and feel like I have been defeated on this one. Might have a decent read of the Haynes manual and see if I feel like I am up for it.

Baltobonneville

You should have the manual(s), but this will help:

http://www.triumphrat.net/twins-tech...-overview.html

I'm planning to do it myself this spring, just got the new micrometer yesterday, for measuring the shims.

I also bought a set of go/no-go feeler gauges, as Mike mentioned: Each leaf has a thinner part and a slightly thicker part, both sizes printed on it, should make the measurement of the clearance easier.

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Marty
2005 Bonneville Blue 790cc, AI removed, Staintunes RC, Unifilter, no snorkel, 118/40/Thrux needle/1 shim/3 turns, tachometer, Ikon 7610s in back, Ricor Intiminators in front, Pirelli Sport Demons, D9 gauge panel.

RedBird

itcha, I think you forgot the decimal point. If they are at the loose end of specs but still within specs, I would call em good and ride. At 24K miles mine measured the same as they did at 12K miles. I prefer the loose end of specs on valves; however, you can't always get there with the available shims.

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Larry
2003 T-100 (790cc), NARK, NH Togas, 8100 rpm rev limiter, 158 main jets, 42 pilot jets (less than 1 turn out on pilot screws), stock needles--no shims. 13 A/F ratio from 1100 rpm to 4000 rpm; 12 A/F ratio from 4000 rpm to 6000 rpm; 13 A/F from 6000 rpm to 8100 rpm.:D
2007 Tiger 1050--White:D--SW-Motech crashbars, Skidmarx rear hugger/chain guard, Calsci +7 windscreen.

itcha

Yes, sorry I forgot the decimal point, I might think about the go/no-go feeler gauges as well then.

mikeinva

If there in spec and not ticking I would let her ride another year.

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Why do I feel young on my bike

biker7

Good advice. Many like to err on the side of loose for heat transfer with air cooled motors in particular. Mike...in the case of the Bonny motor, do you ever seen clearances tighten?...or universally do clearances increase with mileage?
Thanks,
George

propforward

It is not unusual for these types of valve trains for the clearance to actually tighten up. This is caused by the valve wearing into the seat, as it were.

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Rule 1: Cardio

Rustic Road Progress

39500

Bucket over shim clearances usually tighten. If they're noisy they're healthy. It's very unusual to see clearances increase.

Valve or seat wear or valve stem stretch will close up the clearances, with the result that the valves don't shut off fully.