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| Twins Talk Discussion of Hinckley Triumph Twin related matters and topics. |
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05-04-2006
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#1 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Formula Extreme
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Goodyear,AZ
Posts: 442
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I was just reading the valve adjustment procedure in the service manual and it mentions getting new washers for the oil pipe line banjo bolts. There is also the possibility of needing a new valve cover gasket and the seals for the camshaft cover bolt.
Has anyone done this? If so did you get new washers for the banjo bolts? Did the dealer have these items in stock? I'd like to have all the parts I need lined up before doing it so the bike doesn't end down a week or so while I wait for them.
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John
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05-04-2006
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#2 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Formula Extreme
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Mississippi Gulf Coast
Posts: 401
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The copper crush washers for the oil pick-up line can be reused, if you have either a butane or oxyacetylene torch to anneal them, otherwise just easier to get new ones. I ordered the O-rings and crush washers through my dealer, they didn't have them on-hand, but got them from Triumph America fairly quickly. I went ahead and bought a new cam cover gasket even though most people suggest that you can get by re-using the original. I don't remember the part numbers, but the parts type at the dealer can help you out, they're a tad pricey for what they are, I think I paid $30 for two of the O-rings and one washer, but what can you expect, eh?
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Michael D. Rodriguez
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05-04-2006
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#3 (permalink)
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Senior Member
SOTP Vintage Series
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: L.A., Ca.
Posts: 5,580
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Both can be reused, and i was able to fix a bad copper oil seal wet and dry sandpaper. I had an external one that was bad. The one with the banjo at the top left of the oil cooler.It was leaking and no matter how hard i tightened it it would leak. Removed it and took the washers and placed them on piece of i think #400 wet and dry and ran it across both sides till they looked totally smooth. Leak totally stopped and hasn't leaked since. That was about 8 months ago.
the seals on the cam cover and the cover gasket can also be reused. I did and they're fine. You gotta realize that in the manual they always tell you to replace stuff like that even if it's usually fine just because they 1)-want to sell parts, and 2)-while they know they usually can be reused, they realize that there are always going to be a small percentage of people trying to work on thier bikes who are shall we say, less than mechanically inclined. :-D So to cover all bases it's in the best interest of all to tell you to always buy new seals.
But common sense is all it takes....look at the rubber and if they aren't rotting or torn or such they're fine. And the copper....just sand it smooth as i said and they're fine. Only takes 30 seconds per side to make them smooth enough to be good.You can even use a flat file if theres no paper around at the moment. Just get em smooth.
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2005 Speedmaster, Neon Blue, Thunderbike pipes, snorkel removed, UNI filter, drilled airbox, 130 mains, TBS needles.(2 shims) And speaking of Speedmasters, HERE'S MINE
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05-04-2006
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#4 (permalink)
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Senior Member
SuperSport Favorite Bike: 2004 Bonneville America
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Turlock California
Posts: 1,334 Other Motorcycle: 1976 T140V {Bonneville} Extra Motorcycle: 68'YCS1E,71'CT90,82'XL80
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As RoundSlide said you can anneal the washers. First you slide them onto a coat hanger or steel wire. Next heat them up until they are evenly cherry red and immediately douse them in cold water. This process softens copper but will harden steel. Now they will have the ability to crush and make the proper seal.
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If at first you don't succeed destroy all evidence that you tried.
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05-04-2006
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#5 (permalink)
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Senior Member
SuperBike Favorite Bike: 05 Black Speedmaster
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: B.C., Canada
Posts: 1,551
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Quote:
On 2006-05-04 08:37, Bryan wrote:
As RoundSlide said you can anneal the washers. First you slide them onto a coat hanger or steel wire. Next heat them up until they are evenly cherry red and immediately douse them in cold water. This process softens copper but will harden steel. Now they will have the ability to crush and make the proper seal.
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Nicely put Bryan - you should be a school teacher.
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05-04-2006
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#6 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Formula Extreme
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Goodyear,AZ
Posts: 442
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Quote:
On 2006-05-04 08:24, dazco wrote:
You gotta realize that in the manual they always tell you to replace stuff like that even if it's usually fine just because they 1)-want to sell parts, and 2)-while they know they usually can be reused, they realize that there are always going to be a small percentage of people trying to work on thier bikes who are shall we say, less than mechanically inclined. :-D So to cover all bases it's in the best interest of all to tell you to always buy new seals.
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I was just curious as to how it worked out for most people. I know most things can be reused and I figured the dealer would want a fortune for whatever I need. I guess I'll try it when the time comes and if I have to order the parts, the bike will be down for a week. I can only get to the dealer on Saturday and it is about 30 miles from my house.
Thanks.
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John
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05-04-2006
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#7 (permalink)
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Senior Member
World SuperBike Favorite Bike: '03 T-100 & '07Tiger1050
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Stroud, OKlahoma, USA
Posts: 2,425
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The valve cover/cam cover gasket can be used again and I believe Triumph expects you to use it many times. My dealer doesn't stock them and doesn't replace them when they do the valve adjustments. Just don't use a screw driver, etc. to pry it off--use a rubber mallet to jar it loose and you shouldn't damage the gasket.
Larry
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Larry
2003 T-100 (790cc), NARK, NH Togas, 8100 rpm rev limiter, 158 main jets, 42 pilot jets (less than 1 turn out on pilot screws), stock needles--no shims. 13 A/F ratio from 1100 rpm to 4000 rpm; 12 A/F ratio from 4000 rpm to 6000 rpm; 13 A/F from 6000 rpm to 8100 rpm.:D
2007 Tiger 1050--White:D--SW-Motech crashbars, Skidmarx rear hugger/chain guard, Calsci +7 windscreen.
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