Triumphrat

brittwin · 03-04-2006, 11:21 PM

I removed the baffles from my stock pipes at the recommendation of a few knowledgeable people in here. Everything went smooth....sounds nice...and better. Here's my question. Should I adjust anything on the carbs and if I do which screws to adjust...(location). I just want to make sure I'm not effing up any of the adjustments. It runs fine now, but can it run better? any help is much appreciated...

ozbon · 03-04-2006, 11:25 PM

Pull out the rubber snorkel under the left hand side cover to let her breathe better. :-D

brittwin · 03-04-2006, 11:28 PM

That's it? No Idle screw adjust?.....I thought I'd have to mess with the needles or something. Thanks... I'll try that.

zighawk · 03-05-2006, 12:19 AM

I didn't adjust anything after debaffling my pipes, but I promise you if you pull the snorkle you'll have to rejet. Not sure what to, and I' m sure someone can tell you, but the good thing is the snorkle is easily replaced. I pulled mine without rejetting just to see, and the bike ran very lean.

Panthermark · 03-05-2006, 08:26 AM

If you go with Triumph TOR's for a Bonnie, then they come with 115 jets. If you pull the snorky and the baffles, you may want to go with 115's. If you also had a UNI or K&N air filter, you may want to go with 118's.

Most people run between 2.5 and 3 turns out on the screws.....depending on their location and set-up.

brittwin · 03-05-2006, 08:31 AM

what is involved with changing the jets on the carbs and where are they in reference to the carbs? can I do it with the carbs on the bike? I'm sorry for the novice questions, but I'm new to the Triumph arena...BUT I"M LOVING EVERY SECOND OF IT!

vertwrks · 03-05-2006, 09:02 AM

Brittwin,

The jets are located under the float bowls which are on the very bottom each carb. The float bowls are held in place by four phillips head screws (each bowl) and with patience and a right angle screwdriver can be removed on the bike. Once you get the float bowls off take care not to bend anything related to the actual float, The float will be the dangly thing. The float meters fuel into the carb and works like a toilet valve. To remove the float you pull the pin at the float pivot, be careful to note where the peices go, there will be a little spring and the float needle that will also come off when you pull the pin. The jets are made of brass and are about in the center of the carb. The main jet will be screwed into another brass peice (needle jet). Hold that brass peice in place with an 8mm wrench and use a rt angle straight blade screwdriver to remove the jet. Normal right hand thread and try not to let the screwdriver hop out of the slot while torqueing cause that brass is soft. When reinstalling the float bowl get a set of allen head carb screws from New Bonneville and use them instead of the phillip head screws. Just makes it easier.
The needles have to be changed from the top of the carb, I have not changed mine but it looks like this can be done while the carbs are on the bike as well. Remove the cover over the top of the carb (4 phillips heads and you will get new allen heads with the kit from New Bonneville) and under the cap you will see a black plasticy looking thing, pull out the spring and then the black plastic diaphram and slide. The needle will be stiicking out the bottom of the slide, remove the retainer inside the slide and replace the needle. Put everything together like it came apart being very careful with how the plack plasticy diaphram goes. If that does not seat properly or gets a small hole in it you will be unhappy. Easy enough to do though so don't fret it.

Anchorbend · 03-05-2006, 10:59 AM

Brittwin,

If you look at the question about Comprehensive Primer on this page started by Jstark you will find most of the info you are looking for including helpful links. You probably don't need to do anything with the simple bafflectomy but no doubt you will soon be thinking about drilling out the rest of the baffles.

.

CAPTDON · 03-05-2006, 07:51 PM

Romeved that stupid metal thing wrapped in F/G Then with secure drill etension Drilled as much I could thru restrictor plate # 2 & 3 Left # 4 intact keeps backpressure w-o killin sound SO NO RE- JE3TTING REQUIRED Anywhere beyond that Gota go in!! The x-tra 1/2 turn helped super at low end She runs beter every day I love the stock Supposed to be ) Bonne sound A comfortable tone far away from the sewing machine That it cameee with You should be cool if yousdtay in the limits of STOCK MODS Ride O

n as much as you can Thats whats about!!

CAPTDON · 03-05-2006, 07:51 PM

Romeved that stupid metal thing wrapped in F/G Then with secure drill etension Drilled as much I could thru restrictor plate # 2 & 3 Left # 4 intact keeps backpressure w-o killin sound SO NO RE- JE3TTING REQUIRED Anywhere beyond that Gota go in!! The x-tra 1/2 turn helped super at low end She runs beter every day I love the stock Supposed to be ) Bonne sound A comfortable tone far away from the sewing machine That it cameee with You should be cool if yousdtay in the limits of STOCK MODS Ride O

n as much as you can Thats whats about!!