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Old 01-14-2006   #1 (permalink)
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I pulled the carbs off my recently-purchased 2003 T100 to replace main and pilot jets, and to install the externally-adjustable pilot screw from BC.

When I drilled and removed the plugs and unscrewed the stock pilot needles, I was careful to make sure I didn't lose the tiny O-rings, washers, or springs. The O-ring and washer stayed inside the right carb, so I removed them with a small spring hook. There was NO washer or O ring in the left carb. To assure I wasn't overlooking something, I took the carbs to a small but good independent shop that specialized in building Kawasaki drag bikes. The mechanic assured me there was no washer or O-ring stuck anywhere in the left carb.

Being the good guy he is, he stopped what he was doing to search for a washer and O-ring that matched those from the right carb.

Needless to say, the bike, now with new pilots and mains, TORs, AND these two tiny parts, runs like it should.

OhioRider

PS - am I the only one who thinks the carbs are difficult to remove and install on the Bonnie?
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2003 T100 (790cc) Lucifer Org and Silv: 122/42 jets, TORs, 17T, UNI filter, no AI, Polaris bellmouth, Metzeler ME880 tires, Progressive 440 shocks (105/150 springs),11-1126 fork springs, gaiters, MotoTwin low bars, 6024 lamp, htd grips, 12v outlet.
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Old 01-14-2006   #2 (permalink)
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I'm hoping the more carb work I do, the smaller my hands will get.
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Old 01-14-2006   #3 (permalink)
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Carb removal is way easier without an airbox :-D
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Old 01-14-2006   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
On 2006-01-14 11:15, bennybmn wrote:
Carb removal is way easier without an airbox :-D
After doing it with the airbox on, I have to think you're 100% correct! Are you running without an airbox - perhaps with external air cleaners? Of do you remove the airbox before pulling the carbs?
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Old 01-14-2006   #5 (permalink)
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You don't need to remove the airbox, but it is helpful to remove all the screws holding it in place, and then push the airbox towards the rear of the bike - I can move mine a little more than 1/2 inch. This make carb removal and reinstalling much easier.
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Old 01-14-2006   #6 (permalink)
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Sounds to me like your "small, independent shop" is a very good shop with which to do business.

Larry
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2003 T-100 (790cc), NARK, NH Togas, 8100 rpm rev limiter, 158 main jets, 42 pilot jets (less than 1 turn out on pilot screws), stock needles--no shims. 13 A/F ratio from 1100 rpm to 4000 rpm; 12 A/F ratio from 4000 rpm to 6000 rpm; 13 A/F from 6000 rpm to 8100 rpm.:D
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Old 01-16-2006   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Are you running without an airbox - perhaps with external air cleaners? Of do you remove the airbox before pulling the carbs?
Airbox is gone. Running the Freak with K&N's. Bill's right tho, there are two screws inside the rear fender which hole the airbox in place, maybe with a couple other ones somewhere (been so long I forget) that give you some play with the airbox. MUCH easier. Then again, removing that box was the single biggest performance gain I ever made.
Here's a shot of the left side, no airbox. Also cut the cheese grater mounting tabs out of that side cover to open that filter up to the air more.
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Old 01-16-2006   #8 (permalink)
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Funny that you mention the washer missing from the left carb . When I did my carb mods on my Thruxton I found the same washer missing on the same side carb.
I just put it back together without it . It's only function is to keep the spring from grinding up the o-ring . Considering you should only have to adjust the screw once or twice to get it where you want it and never have to touch it again , the chance of damaging the 0-ring to the point where it was unusable seemed highly unlikely to me .
Anyway, No problems with it missing .

Maybe the left hand carb washer installer called in sick that day.

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Old 01-16-2006   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
On 2006-01-16 19:50, Fossil wrote:
Funny that you mention the washer missing from the left carb . When I did my carb mods on my Thruxton I found the same washer missing on the same side carb.
I just put it back together without it . It's only function is to keep the spring from grinding up the o-ring . Considering you should only have to adjust the screw once or twice to get it where you want it and never have to touch it again , the chance of damaging the 0-ring to the point where it was unusable seemed highly unlikely to me .
Anyway, No problems with it missing .

Maybe the left hand carb washer installer called in sick that day.
Not only was the washer missing, so was the o ring. Not sure what that would cause ... maybe air leakage around the screw?? Anyhow .... I installed a new washer and o ring and she's runnin' good now!
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