Twins Aftermarket Wheels Thread

[englane]

Originally Posted by rodhotter

very nice, you need a scootworks belt drive to keep them nice, especially the machined finish, i installed one last week, only 800 miles already tired of greasy rear wheel + tire, guess my harley spoiled me, everything else on the bonnie is better though!!

Does the belt drive lose any clearance between the edge of the tire and the chain/belt in your experience? With these wider wheel/tire combos, there is a loss of clearance, and I like the idea of running a belt, but I wasn't sure if the belt would clear the tire.

The other problem is that I race the Thruxton, and I do a LOT of sprocket changes. I'm not sure a belt drive would allow me the options I need.

[shrini23]

Originally Posted by Easy13

'97 Honda CBR F3 wheels and forks: Longer fork tubes allow for clipons above the upper tripleclamp, Cartridge fork innards for a superior ride (preload and rebound adjustments), dual 320mm disc brakes up front. 17" wheels at both ends, 120-60/17, 160-60/17 sport touring tires, and a total of 20lbs of unsprung weight/rotating mass gone from stock. Personally, I think they look pretty badass as well.

Will the stock rotor on a scrambler front/rear & also the sprocket will they work fine if I chose to go with the F3 wheels setup.
or do I need to change a whole lot in the front like hubs/rotors/brakes/fork tube lenght and in the rear do I need to change my rotors/sprocket etc...

[beemerrich]

Originally Posted by englane

The other problem is that I race the Thruxton, and I do a LOT of sprocket changes. I'm not sure a belt drive would allow me the options I need.

Bingo. #1 reason not to have a belt...

Regards,

--Rich

[illmonk]

Originally Posted by Hypurone

As stated, reduction of unsprung weight is stunning and has a tremendous effect on handling

Can someone give me an idea of what the effects are, and what the bike actually feels like going to one of these lighter wheel sets? Were the changes all good in your opinion? Obviously, a lighter bike is better re: power to weight, but what effects were there in turning/steering exactly?

[plasma]

Originally Posted by illmonk

Can someone give me an idea of what the effects are, and what the bike actually feels like going to one of these lighter wheel sets? Were the changes all good in your opinion? Obviously, a lighter bike is better re: power to weight, but what effects were there in turning/steering exactly?

I fine the bike drops into corners better.

Plasma.

[parko]

i've got a soft spot for these:

http://www.triumphrat.net/twins-tech...eo-wheels.html

Tubeless and spoked = best of both worlds

[Hypurone]

Originally Posted by illmonk

Can someone give me an idea of what the effects are, and what the bike actually feels like going to one of these lighter wheel sets? Were the changes all good in your opinion? Obviously, a lighter bike is better re: power to weight, but what effects were there in turning/steering exactly?

Unsprung weight is the best performance mod you can do, period. Reducing it with a set of lighter wheels/brakes/forks does everything you'd imagine for power to weight ratio but also gives lower MOI (moment of inertia) and allows the suspension dynamics to be tuned "lighter" (you don't have to crank up the spring rate, damping, compression etc to compensate/control heavy wheels/parts).

Better MOI allows the wheels to move off axis much quicker and with less effort. The bike feels lighter, takes less effort to make it handle and do what you want when you want it. This is amplified greatly at hooligan speeds and maneuvers. Simply put, IT'S ALL GOOD.

That said, there are some wheel changes that can cause some issues. Like when going from an 18 front to a 17. This changes rake, steepening the fork angle. Bikes can get very nervous at speed with these types of changes. You usually need to offset it by lowering the rear and/or adding a damper....

[Aussiematt]

I still have OEM wheels but I expect the impact of lighter wheels is significant. Every time I take my wheels to have a new set of tyres fitted, I struggle to comprehend the weight of the wheels. Even my tyre guy has commented on how heavy the wheels are. Imagine the gyroscopic forces resisting a change in direction on wheels this heavy. I continue to pray Carro will reconsider a run of a wheel set for the early Thruxtons

[rodhotter]

on the scootworks.com belt drive, check their site, they are in N.C. USA kits are $579 delivered,they use latest belt technology so belt width very close to chain size, little to no stretch one adj at about 3000 miles is usually it, pulley's are black on rear or sorta silver-bronze finish, excellent install directions, they give all tool sizes needed as well, gearing is a very little up, i didn't really notice much in my first ride the other day 65 degrees in dec in pa WOW! their service is excellent theres a FAQ any they answer calls + e-mails quickly very satisfied!!!! one not they give a small extention on rear chain guard mounting, on my 2012 mag wheel bonnie i flattened the bracket from te screw mounted to frame up to the guard itself using a vice with rags to protect paint, this with a little tweak opening the 90 degree bend at the rear of guard and tweak at the shock offset in guard gave me sufficient clearance, i don't how to post pics but prolly e-mail one if anyone wants to see or post, beautiful and comfortable bitubo WME shocks will be in pic also