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Twins Talk Discussion of Hinckley Triumph Twin related matters and topics.

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Old 11-28-2012, 05:34 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Unhappy NO SPARK-Just @ Dealer-F them I'm fixing it myself

So, Been running through a 12K Service on my 2006 T100 on my own. I've been able to handle a lot but had the dealer do a chain/sprocket replacement, check header bearings, valve check/shim which I did not have the tools/know how/space/to do (though dealer said "No you don't need to drain oil to check valves [???] => but the Hayne's manual says...)

Anyhow, got the bike back, worked beautifully with re-shimmed valves (majority needed that, 6 yrs old, low miles), new 19T front sprocket & DID Chain, etc FOR A DAY. Parked that night after I got home from work, I accidentally left the fuel petcock on overnight (done before, no issues then). Bike won't start in AM.

Immediate Backstory: it was cold overnight, I gave my friend a lift (2-up) to his house and the bike died several times during the 5-10" ride (3-4 if I recall), but I attributed that to me not letting it properly warm up, but again never had issues before doing the same (just give it some gas at the lights, etc). So, go to start bike in AM => starter is going but engine won't turn over.

Thought engine was flooded b/c I smelled fuel after a while, researched forums, found that air filter was soaked with fuel & spark plugs were wet => cleaned and dried. Tapped bowls on carbs as well. Starter still going but engine won't turn over, so I check fuses => all good. Battery connections => good, tiny bit of corrosion that baking soda & a toothbrush won't fix. Spark => NADA.

So Case In Point: I know people have had similar issues before (after perusing the forums), but WHERE DO I START? Money is an issue, and I'm always for the simple cheap fix before hauling it to the dealer. I plan on removing the fuel tank to take a look at all the wiring, and charging the battery after trying to start it up with up with no luck.

I suspect a bad wiring connection, but with the cold, my inability to think of anything the dealer might have touched re: this issue, and my burning desire to blame the dealer anyhow, I'm at an impasse. This is, IMO, why we all need to be able to work on our own machines, and why I'm thankful this forum exists. Thoughts gentlemen & ladies? Please correct me if I'm wrong any point.

Last edited by LazyEye; 11-28-2012 at 05:45 AM. Reason: Realized this post should be in twins techinical
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Old 11-28-2012, 06:06 AM   #2 (permalink)
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The clue might be in carrying a passenger and the extra weight causing the old issue of the seat base collapsing crushing the igniter.

Check under the seat for marks over the area where the igniter is sited.
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Old 11-28-2012, 09:24 AM   #3 (permalink)
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When I read " header bearings" I thought this was a joke post. Maybe not. Assuming this is genuine, then take the seat and tank off. Your post makes it sound as though something is disconnected or lose in the ignition system. You might be able to find that with just a multi meter and some creative wiggling and poking around. Perhaps the dealership loosened the coil wires. Beyond that you need a manual. I've done this routine many times. It goes something like check battery terminals and voltage, then check ignition wiring and fuses for something obvious. Don't forget the ignition switch and the relays in the headlight bucket. First pull a spark plug wire off and see if you can get a spark when cranking over. Then check the 12v power to the coils and their resitance, then the resistance and output of the signal generator and power to the ignitor. Take timing cover off and check the gap of the signal generator.

There is more, the worst case scenario they somehow threw off your valve timing. A compression test or just turning the motor with the ccover off to TDC would tell that sad tale. I think that is unlikely, but they did have your cam cover off and they were checking your muffler bearings.

Let us know please what you find out.
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Last edited by Sal Paradise; 11-28-2012 at 09:28 AM.
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Old 11-28-2012, 09:34 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I have to agree with Professor Forchetto - after riding with a passenger's weight the Ignitor (ICU) probably cracked inside. The stock seat is kind of flexible right over that unit. You might narrow it down to that if you press down on the ICU while trying to start it and see if she turns over.
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Old 11-28-2012, 09:43 AM   #5 (permalink)
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My igniter module failed. not a crack visable, just a shiney spot on top of the plastic case. a procom igniter made my 06 bonnie run and run better than before.
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Old 11-28-2012, 09:55 AM   #6 (permalink)
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once you get it her running...

http://www.triumphrat.net/twins-tech...onneville.html
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Old 11-28-2012, 10:47 AM   #7 (permalink)
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If LazyEye does determine that his issues are caused by a bad igniter, perhaps caused by his passenger's weight, is there any possible location where it can be relocated?
From earlier threads, one guy heated up his seat pan to deepen the cutout for the igniter allowing a bit more room for possible 'crush' to the igniter. I'm sure that helped, but a complete relocation would be great if a method could be found.
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Old 11-28-2012, 01:03 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I would vote for the igniter as well. I had similar problems for a few months on my Scrambler till one day I lost all spark .



Be prepared for a hell of a shock if you go to Triumph for a replacement. I think I was quoted over $700 but I found a aftermarket one from Procom Engineering for $250.


http://www.procomeng.com/index.php?v...d=5&brand_id=9
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Old 11-28-2012, 02:00 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Is the igniter present on EFI bikes?
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Old 11-28-2012, 02:23 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jayell View Post
Is the igniter present on EFI bikes?
Not as a separate unit, it's included inside the engine management ECU.
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