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Twins Talk Discussion of Hinckley Triumph Twin related matters and topics.

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Old 11-28-2012, 02:32 PM   #11 (permalink)
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So I checked the igniter, no obvious signs of abuse on the unit itself but on the underside of the seat there are a few scratch marks where they made contact at a warning label, and they match up pretty perfectly. Probably cracked internally as so many have suggested, my buddy was a bit drunk and bouncing around.

Going to find another, probably ProCom since that's more in my budget. Thank you all for the help, will let you know where I get after this next step.

Last edited by LazyEye; 11-28-2012 at 02:33 PM. Reason: Will also get some rubber washers or something to cushion new unit under seat.
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Old 11-28-2012, 02:41 PM   #12 (permalink)
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You'll want to take steps (stand-off, cut hole in seat, relocate, etc.) against this happening again... who knows? You might have to get another friend home some night.
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Old 11-28-2012, 02:53 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Not as a separate unit, it's included inside the engine management ECU.
I suspected as much. Thanks Forchetto!
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Old 11-28-2012, 03:42 PM   #14 (permalink)
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time to remove the 'F the dealer' bit in the post title....?

maybe change it to 'F my bouncy, drunken, fat assed friend'.....
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Old 11-28-2012, 05:21 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Ok, I was hasty in blaming the dealer...Thank you for everyone's input!

Bendix, duly noted. I hereby formally remove the "F the dealer" bit.

I just ordered a new ProCom Igniter from NB for $300 w/ shipping. should be here in a few days, will install and let you all know what happens. Appreciate the help.

I did go to the dealer though, my local ProCom outlet, and it was going to be $517 total () if I got it through them, so I can wait a few days.
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Old 12-03-2012, 03:11 PM   #16 (permalink)
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So, I received my new ProCom in the mail today, hooked it up...Still won't start. Highly doubt the igniter is defective (glad I upgraded anyhow).

Possibility that the battery needs to be charged after trying to start so many times and sitting for over a week. On my way shortly to get a charger, multimeter and some rubber to protect the new igniter (the ProCom has a higher profile than OEM).

Thoughts? Thinking check the ignition HT coil and pickup coil/crank position sensor
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Old 12-03-2012, 04:58 PM   #17 (permalink)
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sorry that the new ICU didn't fix it.
maybe the sidestand switch(?) unless it dies in neutral.
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Old 12-03-2012, 07:02 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by LazyEye View Post
So, I received my new ProCom in the mail today, hooked it up...Still won't start. Highly doubt the igniter is defective (glad I upgraded anyhow).

Possibility that the battery needs to be charged after trying to start so many times and sitting for over a week. On my way shortly to get a charger, multimeter and some rubber to protect the new igniter (the ProCom has a higher profile than OEM).

Thoughts? Thinking check the ignition HT coil and pickup coil/crank position sensor
Hmm... $300 ago I gave you some good advice. You might want to try, oh I don't know, this-

Your post makes it sound as though something is disconnected or lose in the ignition system. You might be able to find that with just a multi meter and some creative wiggling and poking around. Perhaps the dealership loosened the coil wires. Beyond that you need a manual. I've done this routine many times. It goes something like check battery terminals and voltage, then check ignition wiring and fuses for something obvious. Don't forget the ignition switch and the relays in the headlight bucket. First pull a spark plug wire off and see if you can get a spark when cranking over. Then check the 12v power to the coils and their resitance, then the resistance and output of the signal generator and power to the ignitor. Take timing cover off and check the gap of the signal generator.

There is more, the worst case scenario they somehow threw off your valve timing. A compression test or just turning the motor with the ccover off to TDC would tell that sad tale. I think that is unlikely, but they did have your cam cover off and they were checking your muffler bearings.

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Old 12-04-2012, 07:58 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Sal, thanks for the update, I did get hasty I admit. I've never gone through this routine before, and even with a Haynes Manual in hand I appreciate your understanding and continuing to follow this thread and help me out

So, battery's charged and multimeter readings are within spec, fuses are good (as mentioned before). Unfortunately I ran out of light today, so here's my plan tomorrow:

Check with multimeter: battery (again), main ignition switch, sidestand switch, clutch switch, neutral switch, starter relay, pick up coil, and ignition HT coils. I may be skipping or doubling some things up, sorry.

Let you all know how it goes, thanks again for the help.
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Old 12-23-2012, 03:44 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Just got the bike back from the dealer, where I took it after I nearly stripped the screws holding in what turned out to be a faulty pick-up coil. Bear in mind my HT coil was also bad when tested with a multimeter, and after all replacements the bike is really purring. Thanks for the help all.
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