I didn't find any of this info before I bought them, so here is my first write-up to you guys.
the following represents the extra 600 bucks in quality assurance research you would be paying Arrow that I have done for you.
first off, the scrambler frame does not take that bonnie bolt at the frame for the mid-section (at least on my 2010) as TEC will tell you. The hole is tapped larger and the bolt needs to be longer. i took the one out of the frame and went to home depot and it matched up- sorry, forget which m size. some day i want to get a stainless one from probolts or somebody, so if anyone does that please tell me about it.
the frame is further in on the scram compared to the bonnie, so you need to get the longest one they sell if you go this route. you can still use the bushings from the bonnie or off of the rear TOR bracket.
that also means you have to bend the pipe in a little to accept it and keep constant force on it while you wrench on it. I used a stack of magazines and a rubber mallet to get the proper height, then leaned on it with my body.
the other major thing that nobody knew apparently, is that on the scram; the piston for the rear brake pedal off the master cylinder rests right on top of the pipes. if you aren't paying attention, you will burn through a stainless line like I did, and end up not only replacing the line, but I had to take a dremel to it to slot both the bolt in points up about half an inch. apparently, brake fluid boils at 100 degrees as my locals tell me- and that's a bad thing(tm).
another solution that we were thinking of was taking a bracket to the rear attachment and dropping the silencer an inch or two...
you will have to swap the rear foot pegs, the right hand side one is dropped an inch or two to get below the TORS, which makes these not fit at all. if you have a centerstand, this will annoy you because those inches are right where your foot goes to drop the stand.
you will also have to come up with some kind of bushing or washer combination to keep the silencer on the back of the rear foot peg. i had to put it peg, frame, bushing, silencer, extra lock wash, extra wash, locknut. i am not sure if this is the arrangement on bonnies as I feel like you might put the peg, then the silencer, then the frame, bushing, washer, lock for those bikes. idk /shrug
note, this is all cuz because of the mid section bolt brings the pipes closer to the frame than i feel it should be.
oh ya, and I had to extend the exhaust sensor by 8 inches or so in order to route around the headers down through the oil cooler. it will save you a half hour if you properly label the wires before you cut because triumph in their infinite wisdom used 2 of the same color wire out of the 4.
if i had known what to do i imagine the whole job would have taken 3 or 4 hours to do properly. i had no idea so it took a few days.
all in all, i highly suggest these pipes. they sound great, they give great mid range boost which i can tell by the seat of my pants. no top end gain really, you just get to the top end a little quicker.
fyi i mapped the factory arrow 2-1 map for this.
doesn't she look so sexy?