Triumphrat

luckyduck · 11-04-2012, 03:06 AM

So basically, the protocol with the WD40 is to get the engine idling comfortable, and then spray around the edges of the intake rubbers and listen carefully for a change in engine speed. Correct?

prior · 11-04-2012, 04:16 AM

Just have the engine idling regardless of how its running. Then spray each intake rubber in turn, to help isolate which one may be causing problems. You will hear a noticeable increase in rpms if you have a leak.

Ten Thrty2 · 11-04-2012, 10:34 AM

Yes I have to choke everytime, it sometimes stalls when i take it off choke but starts right up again no issues, I just ordered some bigger jets so I will also try this, I also need to have my 12K service done which also involves a valve adjustment so I will try the easy stuff first!

bluesforchallah · 11-04-2012, 01:16 PM

I went up in pilots from 42 to 45 pilots and no longer get popping when holding throttle between 2000 and 3000 RPMs. The bike also no longer wants to die at dead stop idle. It will however still hiccup when sitting at dead stop idle. I'll be going back to looking for intake leaks. I've replaced everything between the cylinder heads and the carb bodies with the exception of the intake manifolds. Thinking that maybe I've put the rubber intake boots on wrong in the wrong position.

I've gone from this:

You Tube

To this:

You Tube

prior · 11-04-2012, 02:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bluesforchallah

I went up in pilots from 42 to 45 pilots and no longer get popping when holding throttle between 2000 and 3000 RPMs. The bike also no longer wants to die at dead stop idle. It will however still hiccup when sitting at dead stop idle. I'll be going back to looking for intake leaks. I've replaced everything between the cylinder heads and the carb bodies with the exception of the intake manifolds. Thinking that maybe I've put the rubber intake boots on wrong in the wrong position.

1) check your plug gaps. 2) make sure the idle screw isnt set too low, 3) look for air leaks around the vac hoses 4) did you replace the main or pilot jets? as dying at idle can point towards blocked pilot jets.

Ten Thrty2 · 11-04-2012, 06:31 PM

blues, thats what mines doing but not as frequently

bluesforchallah · 11-04-2012, 08:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by prior

1) check your plug gaps. 2) make sure the idle screw isnt set too low, 3) look for air leaks around the vac hoses 4) did you replace the main or pilot jets? as dying at idle can point towards blocked pilot jets.

1) Plugs are new as of last week and gap was set correctly. 2) I sprayed around the carbs with WD40 while bike was idling and found no signs of vacuum leak. I used carb cleaner as well and had had the same results. 3) It was the pilot jets I increased from 42s to 45s. 4) The bike idles strong at 1100 RPMs, so I can only assume the idle screw isn't turned too low, otherwise the bike would idle excessively high. I think it has something to do with the air mixture screw assembly on the bottom of the carbs. I've replaced the "D" screw with knurled thumb screws and have them turned 3.5 turns out, but I might replace the spring, washer and little "O" ring to see if I can't bring those in at least 1 full turn with better results.

This is after replacing the pilot jets, turning my carb boots "wide side down", oil change and taking a 30 minute test ride to warm it up. Was able to go 2 minutes without the idle stumbling.

You Tube

prior · 11-05-2012, 03:47 AM

Its really strange its idling strong and running fine, then cutting out when left to idle. Usually you get stalling when coming to a stop when you would see the revs 'bounce' and drop.

My gut reaction has always been that theres a vac leak somewhere. Any problems with with carbs I would expect to be present whilst running or immediately after coming to a stop.

I have the EFI model so havent had a chance to play with carbs on these models, is there a vac hose going to the tank? If so let the bike idle with the petrol cap off and see if that helps.

bluesforchallah · 11-05-2012, 02:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ten Thrty2

blues, thats what mines doing but not as frequently

Try going up to 45s on the pilot jet. I think the reason for the stumbling may be due to too lean of a mixture at idle. I've gone to 45 pilots and I'm starting to see better results. Not there 100%, but I'm getting close.

I came across this website and found it to be very informative.

With the exception of drilling the bleed hole, pay special attention to the notes.

http://www.johnsmotorcycleparts.com/...tor-images.htm

luckyduck · 11-05-2012, 07:53 PM

Pulled my carbs today to drill out the stupid plugs covering the idle mixture screws. Make alot of mistakes, although none catastrophic.

1 mistake I made was to forgot to tighten the clamps on the intake manifold boots. This resulted in a very uneven idel followed by occasional backfires with smoke coming out of the carbs.

Take a look at your carbs when you have your bike idling and see if they shudder back everytime the bike stumbles. I had this happen when the boots were not tightened down and after I tightened them up, it went away.

Turning out the mixture screws from 1.5 turns to 2.5 turns helped maintain a low idle without stalling. I think i still need to balance the carbs however to get the idle consistent.