Triumphrat

billyzinc · 12-30-2005

i was at the shop and one of the guys let on that you don't have to remove the alternator cover to turn the crank. the cams have a hexagonal section cut right into them that an open-ended wrench fits on perfectly!

1409 · 12-30-2005

You can put the bike in 5 gear and spin the rear wheel...

04BB..

grebmrof · 12-31-2005

Bad choice of how to rotate the engine. Whoever told you at the shop to try it that way needs to rethink it. You don't want to place all the stress of moving the engine (even without plugs in) that way on all of the cam gear. Follow the suggestion of 04blackbonnie and put the bike in gear and rotate the rear wheel forward.

billyzinc · 12-31-2005

good point.

vol245 · 01-01-2006

Another reason why it is best to do it yourself.

Spyder94 · 01-01-2006

That doofus at the shop Should Be Pimp Slapped for even making such a suggestion. I have been removing sparker's and bumping the engine in 5th gear for more than 40 years. I even read this as a tech tip in an old Haynes Manuel 30 years ago. As greb stated, the shop guys method Puts to much load on the cam bear.

panda · 01-01-2006

Quote:

On 2006-01-01 11:50, Spyder94 wrote:

That doofus at the shop Should Be Pimp Slapped for even making such a suggestion. I have been removing sparker's and bumping the engine in 5th gear for more than 40 years. I even read this as a tech tip in an old Haynes Manuel 30 years ago. As greb stated, the shop guys method Puts to much load on the cam bear.

40 years ago I would have just removed the plugs and turned it over with the kickstarter with the bike on its centre stand...

but It is correct to do it with the rear wheel, and not open anything up to swing on the cams or crankshaft.. remember always try to do the job by disturbing as few things as possible, that way you have a better chance not to have anything unexpected go wrong. Note also, if you are just checking the gaps no need for dial guage or anything. just rotate the motor until a valve is fully depressed, then adjust its brother. eg if an exhaust valve is depressed, you can adjust the other exhaust valve ( not inlet, adjust an inlet when the other inlet is depressed).

Jonnyo · 01-11-2006

glad to see I'm not the only one trying to do his own maintenance. What are the gap specs for the intake and exhaust valves. Anyone? And does anyone know how much oil goes into the front forks when they are completely drained. Thanks. Looking forward to Spring. :???:

vitabrew · 01-11-2006

484 cc per fork for Bonnevilles, it's better to measure oil level from the top of the fork with the fork compressed (pump it first to get the air out) and spring removed which is 120mm for stock, some aftermarket springs recommend a lower oil level.

intake gap: 0.15-0.20mm
exhaust gap: 0.25-0.30mm