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Twins Talk Discussion of Hinckley Triumph Twin related matters and topics.

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Old 11-21-2005, 08:34 AM   #1 (permalink)
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I had changed my engine covers a few months back and torqued the bolts accordingly.

About a week ago I notice one of the bolts on the left hand side and see one bolt missing, so i get a replacement and go to screw it in and it won't go in.
I take a look and see that the other end of the bolt is in there. It musta snapped an fell out (how I do not know)

Any way, does anybody have any suggestions on how to get the broken bolt out?

I know they make screw extractors that you hammer into the stripped head, but I am not sure I want to do that on my primary cover bolt, thinking it may screw up the threads.
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Old 11-21-2005, 08:41 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Take the cover off, you may have enough bolt showing to grab with visegrips.

If not, try tapping it counterclockwise with a small sharp punch.

If that doesn't work, carefully center punch the bolt, and carefully drill it out with a drill just smaller than the root diameter of the threads, leaving a bit of "fudge factor" that you may not be dead center. I use easy outs as a LAST resort.
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Old 11-21-2005, 09:33 AM   #3 (permalink)
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s Thumper723 has said, easy outs are a last resort. If it comes down to that try to grind a flat surface on the top of the bolt so you can center punch it right in the middle. Use aluminum foil to cover all oil soaked parts under the cover to keep filings out.
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Old 11-21-2005, 11:12 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Another trick, If after you remove the cover there is a bit of the bolt showing, you can cut a slot in the top of the bolt for a flat blad screwdriver. I'd use a dremel & cut-off wheel, or a hacksaw (less precise).

If you do decide to "drill ot out" be very cautious.. if you drill the threads in the case out, it could start gettin real expensive, real fast.

I just re-read your post and noticed it's the clutch cover. Before you remove the Clutch cover, read this:

from the NTBF:

Quote:
Once again, I've learned something the hard way. Story of my life...

Then I get to the clutch cover.. the bastich!. I removed the clutch cable, then the shifter, and then all the retaining bolts. I tapped it with the mallet to break it loose, and once it did, I tried pulling it free. It didn't want to come. Little did I know that the first thing I should have done was to remove the rubber breather hose from under the carbs where it goes into the backside of the inner primary cover. By muscling it, I broke the fragile aluminum tube that acts as the crankcase breather - *****! The tube is pressed in, so I'm not sure how to get it out. Regardless, from what I've been told I can't buy just the breather tube assembly, so this may end up being a very expensive lesson indeed.

Bottom line - if you ever have a need to remove the clutch cover, the first thing you need to do is to remove the breather tube from where it's attached to the primary under the carbs. It's really an easy job - if you know what you're doing and if you don't Gorilla grip it.

Ka-Ching!!! $$$

One more lesson learned... the hard way.

Chris in NC
My advise, Get a Shop Manual FIRST!

Luck, Cyn-
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Old 11-21-2005, 11:26 AM   #5 (permalink)
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thanks for the advice.... I'll take the cover off and assess the situation. I have taken it off before and when i did i read that thread that talked about the breather hose : )
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Old 11-21-2005, 12:42 PM   #6 (permalink)
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before I use an easy out I like the weld the nut to the broken bolt method. If you have access to a mig welder that is. the heat usually loosens hard to remove bolts also.
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Old 11-21-2005, 02:34 PM   #7 (permalink)
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yeah, but my fear is that it wont be sticking out...
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Old 11-21-2005, 02:58 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Not long ago, I snapped a bolt while trying to remove the front sprocket cover. Tried loosening fluids such as Liquid Wrench and vice grips on the 1/2" or so remaining stump. Didn't work. Took the bike to a local mechanic who tried some other fluids as well as a heating / cooling process. Only succeeded in removing what was left sticking out. Eventually took it to a welding/machine shop. The guy, who really seemed to know what he was doing, had it out in 10 mins, at a cost of about $30. After welding a nut into/onto the old bolt, he applied some heating/cooling and it came right out with an air wrench. His advice: never, ever try to remove those bolts again without first tapping the end and then using an air wrench. Failing that, use a socket on an impact driver. Never try to do it with hand / arm pressure alone. Hope this helps.
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Old 11-21-2005, 04:34 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Does anybody know if the bolts go through and sort of cleaning or coating process? The reason I ask is because we had a problem at work with the heads popping off bolts on some of our products. The problem turned out to be something called "Hydrogen Embrittlment".
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Old 11-21-2005, 07:53 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I recently snapped off my shift knob flush with the gear shift arm. The stub was easy to remove with a screw extractor.

To use a screw extractor you drill a small pilot hole in the center of the broken bolt, then screw the extractor counter clockwise into that hole, then use a small crescent on the extractor to back out the stub. Its dead simple, and the extractor kit will tell you which size drill bit to use for a given extractor.

I've tried the other methods over the years, cutting a slot, trying to grab the broken stud with vise grips, etc., none of them work nearly as well as a screw extractor kit. I generally use an extractor whose pilot hole is 1/2 the diameter of the broken stud.

The only problem I can see is if the bolt was installed with a large amount of torque. In that case, you may be stuck with drilling and re-tapping as a last resort.
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