Triumphrat

Clifford

Hey RATs,

I'm still working on my T100 mods, looking for the most improvement for the buck. Looks like I could port my heads for the cost of a few gaskets!

I know the most gain on porting is usually in the wells around the valves, has anyone had a look at these? In what kind of condition were they left after the milling process? Did Triumph think to clean this area up already? What about the matching on the manifolds, has anybody inspected or marked these?

Has anyone ported their heads? Any results to post, or recommendations to be made?

Thanks again for your thoughts!

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"It was like that when I got here..."

vitabrew

Haven't examined the cylinder head, but have seen the interior of the intake manifolds and they are roughly machined. No doubt they would benefit from a few minutes with a dremel.

CarlS

Clifford, Jojje is probably the best person to answer this question. He is the one who builds the turbo Bonnies and he has a turbo Bonnie drag bike. He posts here occasionally. You might email or PM him. His user name is jojje1963.

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Carl S
Old Soldier

TBAbob

Clifford,

I think you'll find that the interior of the head is pretty rough. It was on my '02 America when I took everything apart to install the Wiseco big bore last winter. I'm betting that it's the same on your Bonnie.

I really didn't "port" the heads but rather polished them as I didn't really have the proper tools other than my trusty Dremel. I'm not sure how much real gain you'd see from a true porting job but there appears to be a lot metal that could be removed. However, just smoothing off all the casting sand bumps and ridges certainly didn't hurt the air flow.

Cogito ergo equito

Bob

Clifford

Hi Guys,

Thanks for all of the good information. If the ports are really that rough it would be good to smooth them out and round out the bends. I'm trying to justify doing the work on an engine that is virtually new. I have a bit over 5K on my bike right now. It would make sense to do the porting when the first valve maintenance comes around, but I might do it this winter instead, while the weather is crummy for riding.

In researching porting, I've found there really are significant gains, that is, if the manufacturer hasn't already cleaned up the ports. I didn't want to get my tools together and pull the head off just to find there wasn't much to be done.

I'll see if I can get in touch with Jojje, sounds like he's the man to talk to. I'll let you all know what I find, and how the project works out as well.

Thanks again!

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"It was like that when I got here..."

RedBird

Clifford,

I believe you are mostly talking about "polishing"--not "porting". I believe "porting" is a more extreme removal of metal than you are talking about, and it could adversely affect your mid-range power and torque.

Larry

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Larry
2003 T-100 (790cc), NARK, NH Togas, 8100 rpm rev limiter, 158 main jets, 42 pilot jets (less than 1 turn out on pilot screws), stock needles--no shims. 13 A/F ratio from 1100 rpm to 4000 rpm; 12 A/F ratio from 4000 rpm to 6000 rpm; 13 A/F from 6000 rpm to 8100 rpm.:D
2007 Tiger 1050--White:D--SW-Motech crashbars, Skidmarx rear hugger/chain guard, Calsci +7 windscreen.

rodburner

and warranty!

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" A man is only as old as the women he feels" G Marx

Clifford

Hey guys,

I believe I'm talking about porting. I'm talking about rounding out the radii in the intake and exhaust ports. These are typically left unaltered during the manufacturing process; they are not radiused, nor polished. The bore under that valve seats is the only part that is really smooth, and the transition from bore to port usually has a lip and a burr. My understanding is that fixing these areas is where most of the gain comes from in porting.

As for warranty, I would never do something like this and expect a warranty to be honored. If I screw it up, I pay for it out of my pocket, I don't have a problem with that. This isn't something you would do if you were worried about your warranty.

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"It was like that when I got here..."

Asmith

Cliff, I am not going to try and talk you out of this, but IMHO if you are not experienced in flow porting I think you are taking a big chance for a small gain. You will also need to match flow the head ports,and without a flow machine I do not see how you are going to do it. Knocking down the casting ridges may help a little.If you are going to do this at least get a dyno before and after as a teaching aid.A flow test before and after would be real good to have also.From everything that I read, doing flow work takes trial,error,and testing to get usable results. Good luck with whatever you do. Al :wink:

Pete_Twizz

Concuring with Al, I made my first attempt at 'porting' a Triumph Tiger cub and screwed it totally. In the abscence of a flowbench, the best you can do is remove any flash or lumps left in the casting. If the inside of the ports is as nicely finished as the outside of the head, there's probably not much you can do.
Incidentally, DO NOT polish the inlet ports. The mist flowing through the port benefits from the rough surface, maintaining even distribution of fuel particles in the airstream.

Pete.

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Pete.

Do as you will, but harm none.