Triumphrat

alaz

I'm having difficulty in cleaning my drive chain -- the road grit is not coming out completely. I've used degreaser cleaner and brake cleaner. Normally, one or both of those clean the chain well, then I re-lube the chain. This time, I hear the grit in the chain links -- not good. Any ideas?

Thanks! - Andy

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Andrew Lazarewicz

larryshep

Kerosene and a small fairly stiff brush, after a ride when the chain is still warm.

Shorty

I've found that WD-40 and other types of penetrant oils in spray cans work real well also. Just apply a generous helping of chain lube or wax afterwards. Kerosene seems to be the most used method for good results.

Shorty

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2002 Red & Silver Bonneville
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ChuckofTahoe

Bring it to the dealer. Maybe keep your hands clean. Saves money on that Boraxo and Gojo stuff :-D

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Diego

The problem with penetrating sprays is, that's exactly what you don't want happening to the o-ring or x-ring seals in your chain, because that could let contamination inside the rollers. Any particular type of solvent may or may not attack the rings--but you won't know for sure until it happens. Best to stick with what the manufacturer recommends, which is kerosene.

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John

RedBird

I use a tooth brush; however, there are some special brushes made for cleaning chains. I haven't had to clean the chain nearly so much since I quit using Chain Wax. The Bel Ray Super Clean doesn't collect as much dirt and grime in my opinion. :-D I have 9K and have never adjusted the chain--these new o-ring and x-ring chains sure beat the ***** out of the old chains!
Larry

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Larry
2003 T-100 (790cc), NARK, NH Togas, 8100 rpm rev limiter, 158 main jets, 42 pilot jets (less than 1 turn out on pilot screws), stock needles--no shims. 13 A/F ratio from 1100 rpm to 4000 rpm; 12 A/F ratio from 4000 rpm to 6000 rpm; 13 A/F from 6000 rpm to 8100 rpm.:D
2007 Tiger 1050--White:D--SW-Motech crashbars, Skidmarx rear hugger/chain guard, Calsci +7 windscreen.

RedBird

Oops, didn't know c-r-a-p was a no-no word for this forum. Please don't ban me to the R3 forum. :-D
Larry

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Larry
2003 T-100 (790cc), NARK, NH Togas, 8100 rpm rev limiter, 158 main jets, 42 pilot jets (less than 1 turn out on pilot screws), stock needles--no shims. 13 A/F ratio from 1100 rpm to 4000 rpm; 12 A/F ratio from 4000 rpm to 6000 rpm; 13 A/F from 6000 rpm to 8100 rpm.:D
2007 Tiger 1050--White:D--SW-Motech crashbars, Skidmarx rear hugger/chain guard, Calsci +7 windscreen.

alaz

Thank you all! I used a wax-based chain lube, recommended by my dealer, but the wax makes road grit stick to everything. I've had knowledgeable mechanics recommend engine cleaner, then a standard cleaner / degreaser, then lube.

Biggest concern is damaging the chain. I did not know that kerosene was the preferred method until this thread. Much appreciated!

- Andy

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Andrew Lazarewicz

rodburner

Which one? All the folks who made it worth reading have moved on.Their moderator seems to be singlehandedly keeping that forum alive.I personally think every forum needs a "back room"to escape to after reading your 47th jetting question,and the R3 forum was the special video section behind the beaded curtain.

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Ruining a perfectly good Bonnie since 2004.

agogel

Just about any decent motorcycle shop and most bicycle shops have a product called a "GRUNGE BRUSH".
These have an adjustable head to fit your particular chain and let you clean 3 sides at once. Put a big piece of cardboard down on the floor under the rear wheel first and get some kerosene. I usually remove the chain guard first. The "@@!!??" just about melts off.
When done, I put a fan on the rear wheel to help evaporate what I can't wipe off.
Yes.....your hands will get dirty.

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Tony G
"If you don't get what you really want, it's your own fault"