Triumphrat

Londonspride · 09-08-2005

Guys,

Need a few words to ease my mind on re-installing the Oil Drain Plug.
I have not owned a motorcycle with a crush ring for many decades.
The other day I changed the oil on my new T-100, bought the kit from Brent ( NewBonneville ).
Everything went pretty smooth and I just tightened up the plug "pretty tight" no special tools.
Is this ok, do you really need to torque it correctly?
I called my dealer, they said no big deal...?
Odd, I was never able to get a read on the oil level as the sight glass was just filled with oil to the top ( with the bike on the center stand). Dealer said the bike comes from the factory filled with oil and they may have over filled it!!!!
With my oil change the level is holding between the marks.
Any comments on the crush ring and proper torque?
Thanks,
Londonspride

Brooksie · 09-08-2005

Londonspride-read your owners manual CAREFULLY. It explains oil change proceedure pretty well and I think it may give torque spec as wll. ALWAYS buy a new washer/seal for the drain plug EVERY TIME you change oil. I cost pennies and is worth it. Good luck!

badrufus · 09-08-2005

Dealers and their mechanics are notorious for not using torque wrenches, which is why I always check my drain plugs and filters after a dealer has done an oil change. Unless you have a torque meter built into your arm, buy one, preferably two. One should go high enough to tighten the axle nuts and countershaft nut. The other should go low enough for the oil filter and other low torque items, and for that you will probably need to go with a torque wrench measured in inch.lbs. Sears has a 25-250 inch.lbs torque wrench #44593, and measured in metric units (which I assume to be Newton.meters). I just ordered it to complement my standard Craftsman torque wrench. Each costs $75, but they pay for themselves the first time you don't screw something up.

Asmith · 09-09-2005

LS, you can get a cheaper version of that torque wrench, that will work just fine for the lower IN/LBS-Nm.It is a beam type wrench that also comes from Sears.Part number is 44690.It is 3/8 th's Dr.I think I paid twenty dollars for it.For the stuff past about thirty ft.lbs you will want the better, clicker type wrench in 1/2in dr.You should be able to get both wrenches for under a hundred dollars at Sears, I believe.Do not buy a cheaper brand at a generic auto parts store,get the quality of a Sears product,or you will end up buying that clicker style wrench two or three times. Just remember to release the setting on the clickers torque handle after each use,to help prolong the calibration.This is not aircraft quality work we are doing on our Triumphs,so a little less than perfect calibration is no big deal.As a personal thing,( I am not recommending this to anyone ) I like to decrease the torque setting by about twenty-five percent if I am torquing into an aluminum thread.It is far easier to check the tightness on a fastener occasionally,than to fix stripped threads in an aluminum part.All of the info I just listed is JMHO.It is your hard earned money and motorcycle that you will be spending and working on,so it's your call as to how you do it.At some time in the future I plan on getting a drilling fixture,and safety wiring the oil plug on my TBA,just to give me peace of mind.At least if you strip the threads on the oil plug, it looks like you only have to buy a bottom casting cap to fix the problem. Al :wink:

Thunder_Forever · 09-09-2005

My theory is that if I have it tight enough with a brand new crush washer that there are no leaks...then it's tight enough. Obviously the drain plug is checked before and after each long ride, keep in mind.