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| Twins Talk Discussion of Hinckley Triumph Twin related matters and topics. |
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08-29-2005
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#1 (permalink)
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Senior Member
SuperSport Favorite Bike: 2001 Bonneville (cafe)
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Burlington, Vermont
Posts: 1,223 Other Motorcycle: 2003 Honda XR650L Extra Motorcycle: 2008 Suzuki V-Strom 650
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Okay, I know removing the AI isn't supposed to affect performance aside from reducing exhaust popping, so maybe someone can explain this to me.
Thursday evening after work I pulled the rear wheel off (in the process removing the silencers in order to get at the axle) in order to get a new rear tire mounted. Got the tire mounted at lunch Friday, came home after work and reinstalled the rear wheel, then the silencers. Then I decided to finally install the AI removal kit I've had sitting around since May. Installed without a hitch.
Here's the strange part: my bike wants more choke now. With the AI installed, I'd give it full choke on startup, then after a few seconds push the choke knob in halfway, ride off, and push the choke knob in the rest of the way after a half mile or so.
Now with the AI removed, it still starts right up on full choke, but if I push the choke knob in more than a quarter of the way or so, idle speed immediately slows way down, stumbles, then the engine cuts out. Even if I ride off with the choke set at 3/4, the engine frequently stalls out on me when I pull up to the stop sign at the end of my street -- idle speed just drops way down and the engine cuts out. I have to keep giving it a little gas at stop signs and traffic lights. But once the engine's warmed up, it runs just like it used to, with a seemingly normal idle speed.
Anyone else noticed this?
I'm a little worried about how it'll react when the weather turns cold. Even with the AI installed it would take me five or six stabs at the starter button to get the bike running below 50 degrees or so.
--mark
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Bennington Triumph Bash
Bennington, VT May 29-31, 2009
Do you keep one bullet left for yourself, for when it's all over and done?
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08-29-2005
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#2 (permalink)
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Senior Member
SOTP Vintage Series
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: L.A., Ca.
Posts: 5,591
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Same exaact thing happened to me a few days ago. But it's ok now, and i don't know what caused it for sure. But i didn't buy the kit, i bought the nacassary parts at hardware and auto parts stores and i used a rubber cork for the airbox hole. After i realized the plug was too long and cut off the end so it no longer blocked airflow it then seemed to get better. But i can't be sure that was it, and of course for you it couldn't be since the plug that comes with the kit wouldn't block airflow in the airbox.
Do a search and you'll find some others who had the same problem. I'm still unsure what caused it, tho the cork was probably part of it. However, even after i rectified that it still took far longer to warm up. And the other day i disabled the EVLS which rectified that problem and now it seems back to it's old self or at least close. But you don't even have the EVLS because it's only on Ca. bike. So i'm not sure what to tell you. It's wierd brcause you described exactly what mine did yet neither of the things i did to rectify it apply to you.
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2005 Speedmaster, Neon Blue, Thunderbike pipes, snorkel removed, UNI filter, drilled airbox, 130 mains, TBS needles.(2 shims) And speaking of Speedmasters, HERE'S MINE
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08-29-2005
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#3 (permalink)
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Senior Member
250 Grand Prix
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: East Tennessee Valley
Posts: 141
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Mark, That little black thinymajig sticking out the left carb is the idle adjustment. Start her up ride it till shes warm and reach down and adjust the knob a little until the idle speeds up a little. 1100 or so rpm's should do the trick.
mike
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Red Devil
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08-29-2005
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#4 (permalink)
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Senior Member
SOTP Vintage Series
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: L.A., Ca.
Posts: 5,591
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Quote:
On 2005-08-29 19:01, mikemm03 wrote:
Mark, That little black thinymajig sticking out the left carb is the idle adjustment. Start her up ride it till shes warm and reach down and adjust the knob a little until the idle speeds up a little. 1100 or so rpm's should do the trick.
mike
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I don't think he's saying it idles low or dies when warm, only that it needs more choke and dies easily w/o it when cold. I went thru the same thing after AI removal and idle adjustment had nothing to do with it. If it idles good after warmup, adjusting the idle will only make it idle too high once warmed up.
__________________
2005 Speedmaster, Neon Blue, Thunderbike pipes, snorkel removed, UNI filter, drilled airbox, 130 mains, TBS needles.(2 shims) And speaking of Speedmasters, HERE'S MINE
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08-29-2005
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#5 (permalink)
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Senior Member
250 Grand Prix
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: East Tennessee Valley
Posts: 141
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Well Daz, maybe I misunderstood. We are aware of the issues you encountered with your AI removal.
Maybe you can stear the gentlemen in the right direction :-D
[ This message was edited by: mikemm03 on 2005-08-29 19:19 ]
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Red Devil
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08-29-2005
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#6 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Team Owner
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Stuart Fl
Posts: 3,322
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Open up the low speed mix screw Will warm up quicker & give irt a little low end uumph Had the same problem -not now W/O AI will warm a litle slower not a problem My buds leave their chokes on 1st 10 mins Not my style I can do the throttle rite on then Oh open 1/2 turn If not cool experiment further there is no rite or wrong?? Ride on!! Capt d
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CAPT D
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08-29-2005
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#7 (permalink)
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Senior Member
SOTP Vintage Series
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: L.A., Ca.
Posts: 5,591
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Oh geez !! The capt is right. I completely forgot i did that too and that probably helped also. It could even be a big part of it. I turned them out 3 turns and i'm sure that was part of it too. i forgot, but thanks to the Cap'n for the reminder........
__________________
2005 Speedmaster, Neon Blue, Thunderbike pipes, snorkel removed, UNI filter, drilled airbox, 130 mains, TBS needles.(2 shims) And speaking of Speedmasters, HERE'S MINE
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08-30-2005
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#8 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Formula Extreme
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Cross Junction, VA
Posts: 497
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Also be sure to resynchronize your carburetors.
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Fighting Terrorism Since 1861.
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08-30-2005
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#9 (permalink)
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Senior Member
250 Grand Prix
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Naples,Fl
Posts: 104
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My bike is cold natured also. Even in 95 degree Florida heat I have to use the choke on first start up. I pull the choke all the way, starts right up and in a few seconds ride away and reach down and push the choke off as soon as I am riding. Since I removed the AI it takes a bit longer to warm up, about a mile and a half instead of a mile,which is a good thing to get rid of all that heat. After its warm it idles perfectly and while its cold I just use the throttle to keep idleing faster. Ed
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08-30-2005
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#10 (permalink)
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Senior Member
SuperSport Favorite Bike: 2001 Bonneville (cafe)
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Burlington, Vermont
Posts: 1,223 Other Motorcycle: 2003 Honda XR650L Extra Motorcycle: 2008 Suzuki V-Strom 650
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Yeah, my bike idles just fine once it's warmed up -- and seems to idle at the same speed it used to (it's a standard Bonnie, no tach, so I'm going by sound).
Mike, I made a tiny adjustment to the idle adjustment knob before I posted yesterday, and it did help a little, but what I'm more curious about is why the bike seems to want more choke. Again, idle speed is fine when the engine's warm. It just wants to die much more easily until it actually gets warm.
Ah well, it's not that big a deal -- a couple minor twists of the throttle when I'm stopped at a traffic light is all it takes.
Thanks all for responding.
--mark
__________________
Bennington Triumph Bash
Bennington, VT May 29-31, 2009
Do you keep one bullet left for yourself, for when it's all over and done?
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