Triumphrat

HOPOIL

THinking about changing the oil in the TBA before she gets put away for the cold months.
Question is:
Let it sit, over-winter with new oil? -or-
Change the oil in the springtime?

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Forchetto

The old oil will contain contaminants and acid compounds from combustion by-products. You might get corrosion on bearings, bushes, etc.

In my opinion it's best to fill it with fresh oil, and run it for a few minutes to coat the surfaces. If you have no intention of starting it regularly, remove plugs and put a spoonful of clean oil down the plug holes, rotate the engine manually to distribute the oil in the bores, replace plugs.

wenzel850

I have been riding m/c's for over 40 years and I have never changed the oil just for the winter and then again in the spring.

I use Mobil 1 V-Twin 20w-50, if I put 5k or more on in the riding season then I change the oil. If not only 1 time a year in the spring.

I've never had an oil or bearing related problem, but then again I start if not ride my bike at least 1-2 a month all winter long.

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Quentin

Faster Triumph's are the key to life.

MAR

+1 there is no question that old oil has acids and contaminants in it. You should change the oil before storing. Of course most of us don't keep a bike long enough to see the problems materilize. However, in time bearings and other surfaces are being prematurely worn.

It is cheap insurance.

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Slinky

I've never seen the point in filling with fresh oil in the winter, unless the same oil is going to be left in come springtime. Then again, I expect to be riding pretty much all the way through winter on at least one of the bikes. I suppose it would make some sense to use cheap oil for storage and then dump it in the spring.

I am a firm believer in not starting the bike in winter if it is not about to be ridden, I think that does more harm than good (condensation in the cases from short warm-ups).

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'98 Thunderbird since 2002, '09 Bonneville SE since 2009

bikebits

You don't have to change the oil again in the spring. The thing is to change it in the fall, rather than in spring, so the engine internals don't stew in the contaminants all winter long.

Come spring just start riding.

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Dave

30942

So what's the difference -- whether you ride or it sits there, the oil is in there. I ride about 10K miles a year, change my oil three times, somewhere around the 3K mile spot. The contaminants are there as soon as you start your bike the first time after an oil change.

Sure, we may not have the bike around long enough to see the damage (how long that may be is beyond me), but I just don't think whatever is in there is anything to worry about. Ride it, be happy, change the oil when you hit your magic oil change number on the odometer (but change it at least once a year, especially if she sits in a cold garage all winter).

Damn, suckered into another oil thread!!!

Baltobonneville

I change the oil when I feel like it, spring or fall, once a year. I think all these concerns about contaminants are real but not relevant in the real world, given the quality of the oil we use and the frequency we change it.

I only rode about 2000 miles this season due to lack of time and much rainy weather, and when I recently did the valve job, the Amsoil was pristine, not even darkened, so I'm leaving it in there for next year. It'll still be less than 6000 miles between changes.

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Marty
2005 Bonneville Blue 790cc, AI removed, Staintunes RC, Unifilter, no snorkel, 118/40/Thrux needle/1 shim/3 turns, fly screen, tacho, Ikon 7610s, Hagon fork springs, Pirelli Sport Demons, D9 gauge panel.

mgtbeck49

+1 on changing the oil if you are going to let it sit. I guess this is a matter of perspective, but an oil change is awfully cheap insurance if the "contaminant stew" matters at all. After all most of us spent thousands on these bikes. I have no wrenching talents, so it's certainly not a matter of skill.

grayghost

+ 1

Change the oil and filter before you put it away, AND be sure to bring the oil up to temperature. I typically "fog" my engines, for those of you who are not familiar with this it involves spraying "fogging oil" into the intakes (remove the air filter) until the engine stalls out. It leaves a fine film of oil on the internals. Warn your neighbours though so they don't call the fire department.....a huge white cloud can quickly appear.

Pull the plugs and using a syringe or again fogging oil spray approximately 10cc into each cylinder. With the plugs out, put it in gear and either rotate the rear wheel with the bike on the center stand OR (no centre stand) push it in gear. The pistons will move and coat the cylinder walls.

TIP: Use a piece of Duct tape to attach the red straw of the fogging oil spray to the spray nozzle so it doesn't shoot down the cylinder hole. Just trust me on this.

Wrap the brake rotors, caliper and pad assembles in shop rags, place lots of flat cardboard under the bike and spray WD40 liberally on all exposed metal. (IMPORTANT: In the spring clean the rotors with brake cleaner BEFORE you move the bike to be sure all traces of oil are off AND wash the bike with a gentle cleaner (S100 or Simple Green) beforte starting it. Cover with a flannel blanket.

Nubies....leave the tires alone please. Do not put any tire dressing of any kind on the tires. Prop the bike up (if possable to get both wheels off the ground. DO NOT store where there is direct sunlight or there is an electric motor operating. Electric motors emit ozone which can rot rubber.

I could write pages on this....remember to change the brake fluid, lube the chain, and if you nothing else absolutely inspect the henway! This is critical to having the bike start in the spring.

Getting back to the thread......always change the oil and filter before storing your bike.

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