Triumphrat

mnmrosen

Now that I've put about 100 miles on my '96 Trophy, I still love it, but I'm a little concerned about the fork. I know they have a rep for softness, but mine seems really soft. Major brake dive, and serious bumps (like entry/exit to parking lots) cause it to pretty much bottom out, or so it feels like.

The fork oil could be the culprit, what do you guys recommend? Can I change oil weight, or add a little more than spec? Has anyone has success with aftermarket springs? I'm on a tight budget, so I'd rather mess with the oil first if possible. If I got springs, what stiffness would you recommend? I weigh about 200lbs, and would mostly be touring, so a little softness is OK, but the current setup is way too soft.

Apologies if this has already been discussed to death - I did a quick search and couldn't find anything.

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1996 Triumph Trophy 900
2003 Kawasaki KLX400SR

Hmmm....not too sure about the Trophy, but had a similar occurence with my Yamaha after i had ridden it a while. Ended up having a set of progressive springs put in the forks, made a large improvement in handling, I did not go to a heavier weight oil.

Frank

sailfish

Is it a 900? Is it a 1200? How many miles? Have you checked the fork oil level? Are the fork legs dry?

gararnett

I got 1.0 kg springs from Race Tech (actually ordered out of a Parts Unlimited catalog at a Yamaha/Suzuki/KTM dealer), 30 wt oil and new seals. Much better than before. Some say the 1.0 kg springs are too stiff, but I think they would be perfect if they were just a touch stiffer. I'm 230, btw.

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Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Blow.

mnmrosen

It's a 900 with 47,000 miles. The fork seals are OK. I don't know how to check the fork oil level on this bike.

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1996 Triumph Trophy 900
2003 Kawasaki KLX400SR

mnmrosen

It's a 900 with 47,000 miles. The fork seals are OK. I don't know how to check the fork oil level on this bike.

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1996 Triumph Trophy 900
2003 Kawasaki KLX400SR

gararnett

Fork oil level is checked with the fork caps off, the speings removed and the fork tubes completely compressed as far into the sliders as they will go. You stick someting like a rod into the top of the fork tube sothat it gets down the the fork oil, mark the rod at the top of the tube and then remove and measure the distance from the oil mark to the top mark you made. I would suggest changing the oil as a matter of course, as fresh fluid will work better anyway. I used a stiffer fluid. You can make the fork stiffer with adding fluid level or heavier fluid, but that's more like chasing the problem. If you get the spring rate right, the rest will fall in line quicker and with less adjustment. The Race Tech springs are a little over $100, and Hagons and Progressive Suspension both make a progressively wound spring that is stiffer than stock, and are generally cheaper than the Race Tech units. The Race Tech are straight rate springs, BTW. If your seals are good, then leave 'em alone if you don't want to dis-assemble the fork completely. From what I have listed, the only reason the forks would need to be removed from the bike is to drain the fork oil, since there is not a drain bolt at the bottom of the fork leg on the slider. If you don't change the oil, you won't have to remove the forks, but you will need to loosen the top clamp on the triple tree to loosen the fork caps.

It all sounds difficult the first time you do it, but it really is easy. Allow a whole lot of time, and take your time.

__________________
Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Blow.

gararnett

Fork oil level is checked with the fork caps off, the speings removed and the fork tubes completely compressed as far into the sliders as they will go. You stick someting like a rod into the top of the fork tube sothat it gets down the the fork oil, mark the rod at the top of the tube and then remove and measure the distance from the oil mark to the top mark you made. I would suggest changing the oil as a matter of course, as fresh fluid will work better anyway. I used a stiffer fluid. You can make the fork stiffer with adding fluid level or heavier fluid, but that's more like chasing the problem. If you get the spring rate right, the rest will fall in line quicker and with less adjustment. The Race Tech springs are a little over $100, and Hagons and Progressive Suspension both make a progressively wound spring that is stiffer than stock, and are generally cheaper than the Race Tech units. The Race Tech are straight rate springs, BTW. If your seals are good, then leave 'em alone if you don't want to dis-assemble the fork completely. From what I have listed, the only reason the forks would need to be removed from the bike is to drain the fork oil, since there is not a drain bolt at the bottom of the fork leg on the slider. If you don't change the oil, you won't have to remove the forks, but you will need to loosen the top clamp on the triple tree to loosen the fork caps.

It all sounds difficult the first time you do it, but it really is easy. Allow a whole lot of time, and take your time.

__________________
Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Blow.

mnmrosen

Thanks gararnett! I've changed fork seals in other bikes before, so I'm not afraid to mess around in there. Sounds pretty simple, but I wish they had drain plugs for the oil, which I'd like to replace regardless. I've got a small modification budget, and I'll think I'll go for the springs. I've used Progressive Suspensions in other bikes, and been very happy with the results.

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1996 Triumph Trophy 900
2003 Kawasaki KLX400SR

gararnett

Any time. Let us know when you get the fork done and if the results are satisfactory. :upthumb:

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Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Blow.