Triumphrat

griffsalt · 03-10-2008

HI all Back in september I posted a Question about overheating/Head gasket problems on my 900 trophy after trying all your sugestions (thanks very much) I Found the problem I think it is a poorly seated liner I had no emulsification on the dipstick apart from a couple of drops of water but when I removed the brather pipe it was solid with creamy brown slime I then removed the clutch cover and stripped the breather assembly this was the same and the clutch damper was covered in rust the oil came out clean though.
2 things: firstly the head surface (gasket face) is bad ly scratched should I get it skimmed , I thinksomeone has had the head off before and there was no sign of any sealent on the base of the liners.
secondley as the oil and engine internals look clan should I strip engine further fo check for water contamination.

any ideas apreciated thanks

Griff

ervdrvr1 · 03-11-2008

Griff,
Did you allready pull the liners? It's hard to tell it there is any sealant on the bottom chamfer without pulling them. I would take the head to a shop and have them look at it, would probably need to be skimmed if the scratches are deep enough. Where you loosing coolant before? If so, how much? A small coolant leak at the inner pump shaft seal, head gasket, cylinder base leak, cracked valve cover, air box full of water and running down the breather tube are the only way water can get into the engine(barring a cracked case or head or total submersion). I would pull the sump and check the oil pump screen and the oil preasure relief valve to ensure they are clean. Also, while you have it off, take the radiator to a radiator shop and have it cleaned out and preasure tested. Also test/replace cap(16psi) and thermostat(opens at 83c/181f). Make sure you use Blue Hylomar(www.hylomar-usa.com) to seal the liners, if you use anything else like Yamabond or silicone based sealers, you will have a hard time removing them again if need be. Make sure the liner chamfers and mating case surfaces are clean, dry and oil free at re-assembly. Use a permenent marker to # the liners and pistons in several locations at dis-assembly(trust me on this one!!). If you don't have a Haynes manual, get one. It sounds more complicated than it is. I replaced the head gasket on my 1200 a few years ago(and resealed the liners), and it went quite easily.
Hope this helps.

Erv
Deep in the Heart of Texas!!

griffsalt · 03-12-2008

Hi Erv
Thanks for your advice, have stripped engine and had the head looked at. Machine shop said it was fine. pulled liners came out really easy. no sign of any sealant on base. so have now decoked, lapped valves and rebuilt engine,
very little sign of wear apart from a couple of minor scores on the piston skirts
Il drop the sump next week and check the screen. I think that as the bike never really overheated (no red light or fan) that with the breather totally blocked high crankcase pressure entered the cooling system and forced the water out via the header tank.
Il let you all know next week when I get it finnished.

Griff
by the way Whatts the weather like in Texas here we've got storm force winds and rain

ervdrvr1 · 03-12-2008

Griff,
Upper 70's and sunshine all week!!!!!!
Sounds like your in good shape with the engine rebuild. Make sure you check the oil preasure relief valve while you have the sump off. It's a brass fitting looking thing with a little ball in the middle. Screw it out and make sure you don't have any nasty gunk in/under it. Sounds like the preasure build up could push the coolant out, especially with the liners not sealed. But I would still double check the cap, thermostat, temp sending unit, fan temp switch, and fan just too be sure.
Happy Wrenching!!

Erv
Deep in the Heart of Texas!!

griffsalt · 03-23-2008

Hi all rebuild now complete, apart from plastic, runs well and fan now cuts in and out like you all describe,its never done that before! Erv you were right! well worth dropping the sump. oil strainer full of old silicone/ instant gasget and machining swarf as well Have cracked the temp sender so have to wait till tuesday if main dealer has one. give it a week and I'll let you know if the original problem is cured.

ervdrvr1 · 03-25-2008

Griff,
COOL!!!!! Now go find the previous owner(s) and smack 'em in the forhead for doing a half-assed maintenance job!!!

Erv
Deep in the Heart of Texas!!

griffsalt · 04-20-2008

Back on the road again and finnaly everythings ok waters staying in the radiator like it should, fan cuts in and out and any rise in coolant level in the ex-tank returns as she cools-great. Have done 600 miles since the rebuild so im up to 7000 rpm the first 100 miles were slow though (3500)

parked next to a 08 675 datona last week and that was leaving a pool of coolant on the floor as well.

Does anyone out there no of a permanent fix for a loose alternator rotor bolt Ive tried various washes and spacers but it just gets noisy again after 100 miles

Cheers Griff

ervdrvr1 · 04-21-2008

Griff,
Outstanding!!!!
There is a fix for the Alt bolts for the 900. I'll have to do a search for it(something about replacing the bolts, I think). It seems to be a common prob with the 900's.
Erv
Deep in the Heart of Texas!!

Roden · 04-21-2008

Hi griff,

There is a solution for the alternator bolt, well, two actually.

Pull the alternator, watch the three torx head mounting bolts, the heads tend to weld themselves to the alternator. A good crack with an impact driver will loosen them up - I replaced mine with stainless socket head capscrews.
The bolt will be either loose or broken completely. Check to see how much play there is on the rotor spline, if it is excessive, replace the rotor.

If the bolt is just loose you should be able to remove it and replace it with a new bolt, belleville washer and hardned washer. Apply loctite to the thread
(I also applied loctite bearing retainer to the splined shaft) and tighten it up.

If the bolt is broken, it will have to be drilled out. Some people have drilled and tapped the thread for an M8 bolt, to replace the original M6. This seems to be a better and more permanent solution and one you might do anyway..

There is plenty of info on this over on the T3 forum, search for a post by MotT3, he descibes the procedure with pics!

Well done on your top end overhaul!

Cheers,

Roden

griffsalt · 04-21-2008

Thanks for that Roden Found MotT3,s pics great idea new rotor on order then I'll try it. only good thing is that the torxs bolts on mine came undone ok, read about your problems. any ideas how to remove a brake pad retaining pin from the rear caliper with a stripped allen key slot!!

Thanks Griff